AR Sponsor
Posted: 7/22/2015 8:22:02 AM EDT
|
I recently purchased a vortex 2.5-10x32 scope for my ar. The Mrs. is not happy with the price so to appease her and follow the adage of happy wife happy life, I need to switch it out. Vortex has a 2.5-10x44 in their HS model that has the better price point. It doesn't have illumination, but after thinking about it, it would have limited use anyway. I was trying to base my rifle on the recce but I couldn't hardly see the hash marks on the 1-4 pst, which is why I opted for the higher power with the ffp. This rifle will be used for a combination of shtf and hunting. Am I making the right decision with the higher power? I want the ability to stretch it out if need be so the higher power is useful in that, but what about for closer range engagement?
Also what mount would be ideal for this scope? I've looked at the LT104 cantilever mount. I'm almost positive that this scope will be dedicated to this rifle indefinitely. Your thoughts please? |
|
There have been quite a few user complaints here about 44mm Vortex glass. I don't know if Vortex resolved the issue. Search the threads.
Is a 32mm objective large enough at 10x? Only 3.2mm exit pupil = compromise low light performance. My guess is that a comparable 40mm Leupold in the same power range will be lighter than the Vortex 32mm, and much better in low light. Bottom line: You will take a bath in selling what you have and may end up with bad glass if Vortex still has the issue with their 44mm objective scopes. You may not save any money. If you don't need good low light performance keep what you have. The LT-104 is a very good mount. If you want to access your backup sights, if not offset mounted, you need it, or ADM or Bobro. Also, if you want to have the option to QD swap with a red dot, consider it. If a fixed mount is all you want, consider the Leupold Mark 2 IMS one piece could cantilever. If ultralight is needed, the Aero Precision. Just a few thoughts. |
|
Did you get the 2.5-10x32 FFP scope or the 2.5-10x44 SFP model?
I have the Viper PST 2.5-10x44 and it's a fantastic scope for the price. Easily some of the best glass I've seen on a scope for the price. I paid $470 shipped for mine. You can keep the same magnification range if you're willing to a SFP scope. It retains the turrets, zero stops, and illumintation and saves $300 over what Amazon has the FFP version for. I ordered from CameraLandNY. It's a "demo" model but looks brand new. They're sold out now though 
|
|
I bought it at cabelas this past friday. I got the 2.5-10x32 FFP. I've never had a ffp scope and I kinda like it. I'm going to bring it back in exchange for something else over there. All of the leupold scopes are 3-9 power or higher, even with the firedot. I have a 3-9x40 rifleman on my .270 and it's been great. I'm wanting to try something a little different that's geared more towards the "tactical" environment vs the "hunting" environment even though it will be used double duty.
ETA- I just checkedon their site and they have the 2.5-10x44 HS model |
|
Quoted:
I bought it at cabelas this past friday. I got the 2.5-10x32 FFP. I've never had a ffp scope and I kinda like it. I'm going to bring it back in exchange for something else over there. All of the leupold scopes are 3-9 power or higher, even with the firedot. I have a 3-9x40 rifleman on my .270 and it's been great. I'm wanting to try something a little different that's geared more towards the "tactical" environment vs the "hunting" environment even though it will be used double duty. ETA- I just checkedon their site and they have the 2.5-10x44 HS model The Viper HS uses the same glass, but different reticle in the SFP. It also doesn't have the open turrets or the illumination. Your call, but it's more of a hunting scope. |
|
Definitely keep what you have unless you can trade it in at full value. Buy the wife a Kate Spade or something to stay in her good graces. For future reference, you should get that shit into the gun safe before the Mrs. finds out.
The LT-104 is an excellent mount. You can opt for those new VZF levers which Larue markets for more permanent installations, but I have no experience with them. Mine has the QD levers. |
|
So I brought my vortex back to appease the wife. In the mean time I've been searching for a new scope that will suit me. I'm in between the vortex strike eagle 1-6 and the swfa ss 1-4. I like the higher power of the vortex, but I'm skeptical of it being made in china. Also, I have to order it as nobody has one in hand. I'll have to order the swfa also, so that's a wash. I'm thinking I like the reticle of the swfa better, however their diamond illuminated center is set for 100-300 yds where as the vortex says it's set for 20-200 yds.
I'd like to know what exactly the differences are before I order because this one IS NOT going back, unless it breaks for some wierd reason. Thanks for talks help and opinions! |
|
Have you considered the $299 Weaver 3-10x40mm Grand Slam Tactical? Japanese, not Chinese. Extremely good optical performance for that price. It is a true MRAD tactical scope with mildot reticle and corresponding accurate, repeatable mil turrets with .1mil per click. Incredible performance to cost ratio. Only made for MidwayUSA by Weaver. You can't get it at Cabelas, though. It is highly respected on this board. It is SFP, as scopes 10x and under should be.
You might consider the Leupold Mark AR scopes with Firedot. They are also MRAD tactical turrets and reticle, SFP, but very high quality. You really will not use FFP intermediate power ranging at magnification of 10x and under. Concentrate on image quality, turret tracking and a usable reticle under all conditions. |
| I originally went in to purchase the pst 1-4 but I couldn't see the damn hash marks very well. I guess I can't focus sharp enough with contacts. I went with the higher powered vortex because I could see the reticle so clearly and I really wanted to run the vortex. I've read so many great things about vortex that I was kind of stuck on them. Like I said though, I truly want something that can be useful close range and out to a bit further if need be. |
|
Well, I bounced between the vortex strike eagle and the swfa ss 1-4 and went with the swfa with the ssalt mount. So far it's freakin awesome and I'm thinking it's exactly what I was looking for.
My only issue now is getting it set right. I pushed the mount as far forward on the upper as I could without jumping to the rail. On 1x it's clear as a bell but when I crank up to 4x I get a shadow ring. So I moved it pretty far back, however I'm still getting the dark ring around the eye piece. Is there a too far back or too far forward? I also set the scope where the turrets are pretty close to center in between the mount rings. Should I leave the mount all the way forward and adjust the scope in the mount or keep fiddling with the location of the mount? |
|
Just make sure the front ring is not directly or the objective lens. You would hate it if you crushed the lens tightening the mount one day.
Place scope on highest power and place on rifle according to your primary shooting position, low power will be no problem. All my low power variable scopes have ended up with the occular lens lined up with the charging handle. |
|
Quoted:
Well, I bounced between the vortex strike eagle and the swfa ss 1-4 and went with the swfa with the ssalt mount. So far it's freakin awesome and I'm thinking it's exactly what I was looking for. My only issue now is getting it set right. I pushed the mount as far forward on the upper as I could without jumping to the rail. On 1x it's clear as a bell but when I crank up to 4x I get a shadow ring. So I moved it pretty far back, however I'm still getting the dark ring around the eye piece. Is there a too far back or too far forward? I also set the scope where the turrets are pretty close to center in between the mount rings. Should I leave the mount all the way forward and adjust the scope in the mount or keep fiddling with the location of the mount? Set the scope on max magnification. Get a proper cheek weld. move the mount until you find the scope to be clear. Tighten mount and you're good. The eye box gets bigger as magnification decreases, so if it looks good at max then you'll be all set if you have a consistent cheek weld. For reference, you'll get the scope shadow if you're too close OR too far away. |
AR Sponsor