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Originally Posted By MSC182:
Any chance of getting one done with the Leupold FireDot Special Purpose reticle? I recently found a new range that has steel targets out at 300 and 400 yards which will be the furthest I’ve ever shot. Great thread by the way and thanks for all the work. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/189957/086149CF-B67B-4A1C-AADA-719196473715-574086.jpg Ammo will be either M193 or M855 with a 100 yard zero @pezboytate Let me know if this looks right. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By pezboytate: @MSC182 Let me know if this looks right. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/138579/LEUPOLD_FIREDOT_SPECIAL_PURPOSE_62_GR_png-759534.JPG |
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Member of the National Rifle Association and the Texas State Rifle Association
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Originally Posted By Firefighter503:
Awesome thread. Any chance you can do the TA33G-H .223 reticle w/ IMI 77gr Razor Core SMK HP? Specs: 2740fps, G1 BC 0.372, this will be out of a 16" barrel. From what I can find, a 1" high zero at 100 (not sure if yards or meters, wasn't specified in my research) is supposed to line up pretty well with the BDC. I'd just like to see if its close enough for my purposes. Thanks in advance! https://www.trijicon.com/images/product_reticles/TA33-C-400129_reticle_popup.jpg Thanks |
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Originally Posted By pezboytate: Do you know what the subtensions are? Usually if you email Trijicon, they'll send them to you. Thanks The subtensions are as follows. The dimensions are from the center of the horseshoe dot. 100/200 meters = center dot 300 meters = top of post, measurement not listed. 400 meters = 7.7 MOA 500 meters = 12.5 MOA 600 meters = 18.6 MOA Not sure if you can do the conversion, but I prefer to think in yards. I guess do both maybe? Either way is great though.
Thanks again! |
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Originally Posted By Firefighter503:
@pezboytate The subtensions are as follows. The dimensions are from the center of the horseshoe dot. 100/200 meters = center dot 300 meters = top of post, measurement not listed. 400 meters = 7.7 MOA 500 meters = 12.5 MOA 600 meters = 18.6 MOA Not sure if you can do the conversion, but I prefer to think in yards. I guess do both maybe? Either way is great though.
Thanks again! FYI, if the reticle is made for meters the width of the lines will be for ranging in meters. So I put in 700 ft for elevation since you didn't specify. If you zero with 400y POI=POA (not quite the bottom of the dot POA at 100y), you will be really close from 100y-400y and high at 500y and 600y (600y hold would be more like where the 550y is) If you zero with 100m POI=POA, you will be a low at 300m, 400m, and 500m but dead on at 600m. In a hurry so I can't post any pics at the moment. HTH. |
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Awesome, thanks. I'll stick with meters.
ETA: Elevation is generally between 300-400ft at my location. ETA2: I started playing with Ballistic AE and figured out I could play with the zero height, in addition to zero distance (I never realized this). It looks like a 1.5" high zero at 100m will give me the following drop: 100: 1.3moa 200: -0.53moa 300: -3.70moa 400: -7.69moa 500: -12.59moa 600: -18.63moa That matches up pretty well with Trijicon's numbers. |
| Thanks for this, great info presented well!! |
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Originally Posted By AmateurHour:
Would it be possible to get one of those target-placement visuals for the Vortex VMR-2 moa? Even though it's used in the razor and viper 1-6x, I could not find much on it, and my calculations got a bit strange. I did find a review with some numbers, but I wasn't sure how accurate they were. Data on a 16" using 55 grain 5.56mm with 100 yard zero would really be really cool. I'm not greedy though...I'll take what I can get. http://s1266.photobucket.com/user/Sillyrandomname/media/IMG_20190719_132044_336_zpsrhln9udr.jpg.html http://s1266.photobucket.com/user/Sillyrandomname/media/PST-G2-1-6X24-VMR2-MOA_zpsohfqie5e.jpg.html |
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Originally Posted By mickeydunn:
Incredible post! How about some 10.5 inch data? Here it is and also the 14.5" for comparison. Attached File Attached File |
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Hey, I just noticed you are a fellow Hoosier.
Getting real specific I just built a 10.5 gun. Trijicon 2.5-12.5 accupoint mil dot in Warne 1.5 inch Ramp mount. Have 400 rounds of mk318 mod 0 coming. Was thinking 50 yard zero. Going to be my trunk/get home in case of boogaloo gun. A spec out to 300 yards would be awesome. |
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Originally Posted By Infamous: @pezboytate are you able to do a ta31-ch shooting mk262 out of a 16" barrel and superimpose it over a standing silhouette (5'10 or 6')? Been really busy with work, homesteading, homeschool, and Scouts. Looks like it has the TA01 NSN reticle so I should be able to do it at some point. |
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Originally Posted By pezboytate: Been really busy with work, homesteading, homeschool, and Scouts. Looks like it has the TA01 NSN reticle so I should be able to do it at some point. thanks brother, no rush! i was just curious since i felt like a whole human silhouette might be a better reference point for some folks than a shoulder width cutout. |
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This is a really cool resource. Any chance of doing one for “the russian zero method?” Basically they do a belt buckle POA with a 400M zero (for 5.45) and 300M (for 7.62). The POI rises from belt buckle at point blank to center chest at the high point and back down to belt buckle at the zero (300/400) distance. |
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The g**damn Germans ain't got nothin to do with it
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I spent a long ass time in the infantry and always thought the 25yd zero was good. NOW... I find more ways of zeroing a rifle afrer I'm retired... Whats the concensus on this? 36 yard zero |
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Originally Posted By Watch_this71: I spent a long ass time in the infantry and always thought the 25yd zero was good. NOW... I find more ways of zeroing a rifle afrer I'm retired... Whats the concensus on this? 36 yard zero My opinion is it's not recommended. My reasoning for this is for these close zeros there's a lot of your effective range where you have to hold significantly under your target to make impact. If your targets are gentlemen and standing out in the open for you it's no big deal, but if your target were something the size of a head at 100-200 yards, you have to put your dot under the target to shoot it. It's not as intuitive as only something like a 50 yd zero or a 100 yd zero where you only ever hold over, and for the 50 yard zero you are under 3" difference for your POA/POI from just past the muzzle to 250 yards. These 25 and 36 yard zeros are good for two things, necessity (oh we only have 25 yards to work with) and getting rock brained infantrymen to get the bullet to go somewhere near the target. For someone with an interest in being as effective with a 556 or 308 rifle as possible a 50 or 100yd zero are both good choices with good arguments why one may be better than the other. Personally for a red dot I would argue for a 50 yard zero, it's easier to see the target to zero the rifle, gives you a decent stretch of effective range where you put the dot on the target to shoot it, and for a man sized target at distance it's easy to know your holds for 300-400-500 (though maybe not easy to get hits at 500. Scoped carbines I zero at 100 for a more precise zero but I still may adjust to 50/200 once zero is set, the reasons I like it for a red dot I also like it for a scoped carbine. If you really want to get into it, you can get a ballistic calculator on your phone, enter your data and fiddle with the zero until you find one you like. Chairgun will even show you what your reticle target and impact will look like at whatever distance you choose. I think people who go by these pictures of what these various zeros look like on a human torso target aren't getting the full info of what their personal rifle and ammo are doing at distance, and should use a ballistic app and DOPE to really get a better understanding of ballistics. |
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I guess do both maybe? Either way is great though.

