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Posted: 11/9/2009 6:13:21 AM EDT
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I recently purchased the 1X4 from Millett.
I've not been able to get it zeroed and worse yet it goes totally out of focus above 3.5 power. Anyone else having these problems? I went online at Millett this morning to call customer service only to discover thier phone number has been removed. Also tried to fill out the warranty online and it failed several times. All I could find for both Millet and Bushnell was a fax #. (same #) Fax sent and awaiting reply. |
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eyepiece adjustment is for reticle focus. half a turn or so for normal vision i think...
are you looking at something too close? if you're trying to look at something 6 feet away on 4x, it won't do too well. parallax on mine is set for 50 yds. it'll be at it's clearest at 50 yds. or maybe you got a bad unit. |
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Looking at the paper targets at 100 yards they start to go out of focus when you go past 3.0 then turn completly fuzzy above 3.5 power.
At this point the round circle targets appear out of round and get fuzzy. I also cannot get this scope zeroed in. A couple clicks and it might move a foot. Also terrible groups (3 4 inches@ 100yds) I know it's not the rifle (match H-bar RRA) as just this Saturday I took off the Millett and installed one of Primary Arms 4X14 scopes. 5 inch round steel knockoff targets at 200m.....no problem. (off a bipod, of course) Hope I'm not months from getting this setteled with Millett/Bushnell. I gotta think something is loose inside? |
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I have had my millett dms for about a year. Two days ago 11-7-09 I was shootting and the scope went out of focus. I tried to refocus the scope and the crosshairs would turn with the focus dial. It is going back. If you acall the # on the web site it calls bushnell.Bushnell must make them[B)
I called and talked to the people at bushnell and they told me to send it in and they will fix it 
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Quoted: Looking at the paper targets at 100 yards they start to go out of focus when you go past 3.0 then turn completly fuzzy above 3.5 power. At this point the round circle targets appear out of round and get fuzzy. I also cannot get this scope zeroed in. A couple clicks and it might move a foot. Also terrible groups (3 4 inches@ 100yds) I know it's not the rifle (match H-bar RRA) as just this Saturday I took off the Millett and installed one of Primary Arms 4X14 scopes. 5 inch round steel knockoff targets at 200m.....no problem. (off a bipod, of course) Hope I'm not months from getting this setteled with Millett/Bushnell. I gotta think something is loose inside? I think I understand you. (Highlighted in red) You have decent focus at 1X and 2X, but focus goes away past 3X. This suggests that the scope was improperly focused. The higher you turn the power selector ring, the shorter the depth of field becomes. Depth of field relates the actual distance objects are in focus for a given number of variables. Focus can actually only be attained at one specific distance. There is acceptable focus before and after this point. (But again focus only occurs at a specific point.) What I've highlighted in blue is may or may not be a problem. It just may be the tolerances of the scope. You can do a box test on a bench, but you have to be willing to accept the fact that it won't be a "perfect" test, but it should give you a reasonable amount of information regarding how the adjusting screws control the relocation of the erector tube. If you have an end of bore collimator with a grid pattern, and after making sure the weapon is unloaded, lock the weapon in a vice and mount the collimator. Being as careful as you can move one adjusting screw a set number of clicks keeping track of the direction. Look through the scope to see how well the apparent reticle movement conforms to the straight line of the grid (of the collimator.) If you chose to use the grid markings as the box, see how close the apparent reticle movement matches the intersecting point of the collimator's grid. Then move the other adjusting screw the same number of clicks keeping track of the direction. Look through the scope to check. Go back to the first adjusting screw moving it the same number of clicks, but now in the opposite direction. Look through the scope to check. Then repeat with the other screw, same number of clicks also in the opposite direction. You're trying to make a "box." How well did the scope's apparent reticle movement match up to the grid markings of the collimator? Bear in mind that you will cause movement of the scope just by touching it. Make some allowances for you touching the scope which will probably cause the end of bore collimator to move slightly. This isn't going to be exact. And also take into account the fact that you don't have the Schmidt * Bender PMII. Good luck. |
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yup, it sounds like something's broke. :(
in reference to your click issues, my clicks are not accurate either. it's been awhile, so i can't remember what they were. maybe 2/3 MOA or so. i know that i hated zeroing it. it held zero fine once i was sighted in, but my rifle varies POI with different ammo a bit. i also like to be able to adjust for longer ranges, which was impossible with the unknown click values. it ultimately led to me buying a better quality optic. the dms-1 made an excellent "set & forget" 50/200 yard zero optic, and waits in a drawer as a back-up. i hadn't been keeping up on quality or warranty issues lately. i remember being nervous as heck when i ordered mine, hoping i wouldn't get a bad one with fungus or something. got lucky, and forgot all about it. good luck getting a repair or exchange. i guess bushnell bought out millet or something like that. they're a big company. it might be a hassle, but surely they'll take care of you. |
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