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7/20/2008 1:05:01 PM EDT
Hi!
Here is what I have: ( my first AR)
16" Carbine, Carbine length Gas.
YHM BUIS and F marked front sight
BUIS only has Windage adjustment.

Pls let me know how to zero the Ar and at what range?
Are there any options in relation to zeroing as to specific range  like zeroing @ 25 yards, 50 yards etc as I read somewhere that carbines were being zeroed @ 50 yards( cant recall the link).
basically I wanna shoot 25 yards and 200 yards at the range but  also has 300 yards once you qualify at 100 yards.  
Basically, aside from target shooting the intention is to keep for Self Defense if ever SHTF .

Thanks!
7/20/2008 1:48:59 PM EDT
[#1]
The popular choice (military included) is to zero your irons for 50 yards.  This will allow 55 and 62 grain bullets to be 1.5" high at 100 yards and then zero again at 200 yards.  After that you'll need to start holding the front sight over your target.
7/20/2008 3:59:32 PM EDT
[#2]
Correct, and you will use the front sight post to adjust the elevation. And as usual, WHERES THE PICS!

Quoted:
The popular choice (military included) is to zero your irons for 50 yards.  This will allow 55 and 62 grain bullets to be 1.5" high at 100 yards and then zero again at 200 yards.  After that you'll need to start holding the front sight over your target.
7/20/2008 7:37:22 PM EDT
[#3]
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm77/kakapataka/mear.jpg
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm77/kakapataka/DSC00839-1.jpg
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm77/kakapataka/mear2.jpg

Hope you guys like it. Its my first build and I tried the best I could with very limited knowledge
and help from a lot of folks here & Calguns!

The Barrel is Sabre Defence  with CMT upper, YM m16 Chrome BCG.( with AR15 fire control parts , off course!) Stag LPK, H2 buffer( debating if I should just revert back to regular buffer)
Lower is Anvil Arms.................per my FFL it is , quality wise , as good as any lower out there!
7/20/2008 7:53:43 PM EDT
[#4]
height=8
Quoted:
Correct, and you will use the front sight post to adjust the elevation. And as usual, WHERES THE PICS!
height=8
Quoted:
The popular choice (military included) is to zero your irons for 50 yards.  This will allow 55 and 62 grain bullets to be 1.5" high at 100 yards and then zero again at 200 yards.  After that you'll need to start holding the front sight over your target.


Thanks, Glock24 & Socomm.........................
So basically just zero it first at 50 yards & then at 200 yards!  
So when I am zeroed at 50y, if I am aiming for the center of the target, it should hit 1.5  inch  above the center? So in order to get a point of impact right in the middle , i would need to aim 1.5inch high, right? Is that what you meant  by " and then zero again at 200 yards.  After that you'll need to start holding the front sight over your target" as well?
And now for a really retarded question ( this is my first AR!) what is the difference between the 2 holes( I know, I am laughing myself) in the rear sight?????

Its just that my ignorance stems from the  fact that I I ve never owned a rifle before. I had a ( & still do) HK USP 45 full size that I can basically take apart to bare bone without a problem.( Ok maybe not t he whole thing but I can replace the extractor and firing pin etc.)
I  will be going to the range more often, I will get better at shooting my AR & get to know it better.  So far I only focused on functionality than the aiming .
Lastly, ever since I got the Ar, I joined NRA ! & went out partying the day  when the Heller decision came out. !!!!!! sorry off topic but just wanted to share some  info .......
7/21/2008 2:13:59 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:

Thanks, Glock24 & Socomm.........................
So basically just zero it first at 50 yards & then at 200 yards!  
So when I am zeroed at 50y, if I am aiming for the center of the target, it should hit 1.5  inch  above the center? So in order to get a point of impact right in the middle , i would need to aim 1.5inch high, right? Is that what you meant  by " and then zero again at 200 yards.  After that you'll need to start holding the front sight over your target" as well?
And now for a really retarded question ( this is my first AR!) what is the difference between the 2 holes( I know, I am laughing myself) in the rear sight?????

Its just that my ignorance stems from the  fact that I I ve never owned a rifle before. I had a ( & still do) HK USP 45 full size that I can basically take apart to bare bone without a problem.( Ok maybe not t he whole thing but I can replace the extractor and firing pin etc.)
I  will be going to the range more often, I will get better at shooting my AR & get to know it better.  So far I only focused on functionality than the aiming .
Lastly, ever since I got the Ar, I joined NRA ! & went out partying the day  when the Heller decision came out. !!!!!! sorry off topic but just wanted to share some  info .......


I was referring to the bullet flight path when I spoke of the 50, 100, and 200 yard distances.  You don't need to zero at both 50 and 200.  Just zero the rifle for 50 yards and as a bonus, it will also be zero at 200 yards.  Nothing more.

And yes, with this 50/200 yard zero, the bullet hits 1.5" high at 100 yards.  And yes, after 200 yards the bullet starts to fall, so you'll need to hold-over targets at longer ranges.

The two holes in your rear sight are called apertures, or "ghost rings" if they were on a shotgun.  The small aperture should be used for sighting-in and for precision shooting.  It restricts the light through the hole so much that it requires you to keep your head perfectly still to see the front sight.  This is conducive to accuracy, but not speed.  Use the large aperture when your shooting environment doesn't require precision aiming.

7/21/2008 10:09:59 AM EDT
[#6]
If Im not mistaken you have a standard aperature on the YHM sight.

Zero the large aperature at 50 yards.

Your large aperature is now zeroed at 50 and 200 yards and the small aperature at 25 and 300.

Done.
7/21/2008 10:39:34 AM EDT
[#7]
height=8
Quoted:
height=8
Quoted:

Thanks, Glock24 & Socomm.........................
So basically just zero it first at 50 yards & then at 200 yards!  
So when I am zeroed at 50y, if I am aiming for the center of the target, it should hit 1.5  inch  above the center? So in order to get a point of impact right in the middle , i would need to aim 1.5inch high, right? Is that what you meant  by " and then zero again at 200 yards.  After that you'll need to start holding the front sight over your target" as well?
And now for a really retarded question ( this is my first AR!) what is the difference between the 2 holes( I know, I am laughing myself) in the rear sight?????

Its just that my ignorance stems from the  fact that I I ve never owned a rifle before. I had a ( & still do) HK USP 45 full size that I can basically take apart to bare bone without a problem.( Ok maybe not t he whole thing but I can replace the extractor and firing pin etc.)
I  will be going to the range more often, I will get better at shooting my AR & get to know it better.  So far I only focused on functionality than the aiming .
Lastly, ever since I got the Ar, I joined NRA ! & went out partying the day  when the Heller decision came out. !!!!!! sorry off topic but just wanted to share some  info .......


I was referring to the bullet flight path when I spoke of the 50, 100, and 200 yard distances.  You don't need to zero at both 50 and 200.  Just zero the rifle for 50 yards and as a bonus, it will also be zero at 200 yards.  Nothing more.

And yes, with this 50/200 yard zero, the bullet hits 1.5" high at 100 yards.  And yes, after 200 yards the bullet starts to fall, so you'll need to hold-over targets at longer ranges.

The two holes in your rear sight are called apertures, or "ghost rings" if they were on a shotgun.  The small aperture should be used for sighting-in and for precision shooting.  It restricts the light through the hole so much that it requires you to keep your head perfectly still to see the front sight.  This is conducive to accuracy, but not speed.  Use the large aperture when your shooting environment doesn't require precision aiming.



Thanks! This will help a lot! And it makes more sense to me now!
7/21/2008 3:56:20 PM EDT
[#8]
Um...H buffer....you should have a rifle buffer in there if thats an A1 or A2 stock...
7/22/2008 5:50:48 PM EDT
[#9]
I know..........................but I read somewhere that with carbine length gas, its better to have H2 buffer to minimize chance  of malfunction. Actually when i went shooting last time, I had put the H2 buffer.
I could feel a noticeable difference in recoil although it was not that bad. However once I started shooting one round after another, i could feel this weird vibration in the upper. But when I started to shoot each round after 3 seconds, I felt no such thing. Maybe I ll also get a Collapsible stock and just use the H2 with that.
7/22/2008 10:14:16 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
If Im not mistaken you have a standard aperature on the YHM sight.

Zero the large aperature at 50 yards.

Your large aperature is now zeroed at 50 and 200 yards and the small aperature at 25 and 300.

Done.


Really???
7/23/2008 6:50:55 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
I know..........................but I read somewhere that with carbine length gas, its better to have H2 buffer to minimize chance  of malfunction. Actually when i went shooting last time, I had put the H2 buffer.
I could feel a noticeable difference in recoil although it was not that bad. However once I started shooting one round after another, i could feel this weird vibration in the upper. But when I started to shoot each round after 3 seconds, I felt no such thing. Maybe I ll also get a Collapsible stock and just use the H2 with that.


Are you using a carbine length buffer in a rifle length buffer tube?
7/24/2008 6:28:52 PM EDT
[#12]
Yes............... Is that a no no?
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