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RIBZ - - Revised Improved Battlesight Zero (Page 3 of 11)
Added comments are in red.
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You could run an 8-36x3/16 allen screw up into the FSB to secure the wobbly post. If your FSB is not tapped all the way through to the bottom, it's really not a big deal to finish that job from the top after removing the post. You'll have to cut down the short leg on the appropriate allen wrench in order to start the allen screw in the FSB. There's just not a whole lot of working room down there. Ask me how I know. |
Politicians and diapers need to be changed often and usually for the same reason
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molon, Just a question. I have been running the 50/200 zero without the adjusting of the elevation wheel for IBZ. It has been working fine on one rifle, and I don't mind not having the elevation wheel calibrated. On one carbine, I have a similar problem as mentioned above with the front sight post. Mine is the bushmaster tall post, and it has to be out to the point it is loose to get a 50 yd zero. 2-3 rotations down, it is fine. If I were to do the adjustments to the elevation wheel (6/3) would that help with the front sight adjustment? I am considering going back to the 25m zero on this carbine if that doesn't work. |
Added comments are in red.
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When are you going to use the large aperture at longer distance? |
I just noticed that this is all dependent on M855 ammo!!! I have some M855 ammo that I am planning on sighting in with, but how will this affect my cheapo Wal-Mart Remington .223 55Gr ammo? I buy a couple boxes ever so often just because it is cheap and I don't have to pay shipping on the good stuff. I think the .223 ammo from Remington has about 1000 fps less velocity and a little lighter bullet. Should I sight it in with M855 so that my sights are correct and then assume I cannot shoot as far with the .223? Maybe use the .223 for 50 yard target practice? I used the ballistics calculator program from Remington and if I sight in at 50 with the 55Gr .223, it will be zeroed at like 150 yards, not much velocity in the .223 apparently, so it is dropping off quickly. I wonder how far off it would be at 50 yards if I sight it in with M855. This really stinks. I guess if the rear was not adjustable it wouldn't even matter, I could sight in using the .223, but since it is designed around the M855, then it makes all the difference how I sight in and what I shoot. Is it possible to figure out how the .223 shoots based on sighting in for the M855? |
"There's only three things he (Republican presidential candidate and former New York City Mayor Rudy Giuliani) mentions in a sentence: a noun and a verb and 9/11." -- Sen. Joseph Biden, speaking at a Democratic presidential debate.
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Molon- Absolutely outstanding info, as usual. I was an early user of the IBZ and now will use the updated RIBZ to be able to compete more successfully in 100-yd matches. Amazing that I actually won a few of these contests using the old IBZ and was "guessing" where the POI would be at 100M, usually having to aim a few inches lower. Not much room for error when shooting at smallish targets. Obviously, once you have the new open sights set up at 100M, ammo type/grain size/5.56 vs .223 loads all will have a lot to do with where the ultimate POI is on the paper. Here's a question: I just ordered a new RRA National Match upper 1/8 20" S/S barrel with 1/4" MOA adjustment sights for both windage and elevation. As I understand it, the standard A2 sight clicks are 1" MOA for elevation and 1/2" MOA for windage. If that is true, then I need to set my new RRA N/M rear sights by multiplying that "4 clicks up" as recommended for the RIBZ by 4 (total of 16 x 1/4 MOA clicks), since my new sights are giving me 4 x 1/4" MOA clicks for the usual 1" MOA click on the standard A2 rear drum sight, correct? Let me know if I have this right. Thanks again for the great info. Regards, capt.john phoenix27 |
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Bump for a thread that should be tacked... And I'm doing my A2 with this method today. Rmpl |
"Our destruction... will be from another quarter. From the inattention of the people to the concerns of their government, from their carelessness and negligence..." ...Daniel Webster, June 1, 1837
What Would Yahshua Do? www.wwyd.org
What Would Yahshua Do? www.wwyd.org
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All hail Jeanne Assam!
Thanks Molon! |
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Here is a down-loadable target in .pdf format that can be used for zeroing 20" uppers with A2 sights at 50 yards using the Improved Battlesight Zero. The dashed vertical grey lines represent one click of the windage knob. The dashed horizontal lines represent one click of the FRONT SIGHT POST. 50 yard zeroing target When printing, you need to have the "page scaling" option in Adobe Reader set to "none" in order for the target to print with the correct dimensions. ![]() |
All hail Jeanne Assam!
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Hey, first post on this forum...though I've been reading it for months! I zeroed my 16in DPMS M4 with 55gr FMJ Remington and a detachable rear DMPS Sight (my first build :) ) using the RIBZ technique yesterday. It works great!! My only question is, the IBZ remains intact at 50/200, the 6/3 setting gets me hits at 25, however when i set it to 6/3 -6 (for the RIBZ) setting for 100 yds, it hits 3.5 inches low. It works perfect at 6/3 -5. Did I set something up wrong? Any input would be appreciated:) Thanks |
I don't know why there would be a 3.5 MOA change with one click of your rear sight, but all that ultimately matters is that you know what settings on your sights are needed to obtain your desired point of impact at a given distance. |
All hail Jeanne Assam!
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I did the IBZ to my rifle and it goes 2.5 (moves past -2 but not enough to "click". When I set it -3 it was a full click there but a 1/2 click shy of 1 click over the 8 on the big end) clicks below the 8/3 on the 3 setting but 1 full click above the 8/3 on the 8 setting. I would think it would be in whole-clicks. Is this acceptable or is something wrong? It does give me a "buffer" zone to be sure I am at a TRUE -2 clicks, just want to be sure I didn't mess up somewhere. Any thoughts? |
I guess my situation is normal then, as the 8/3 -2 is technically my new 8/3. Took the above from the TM, what do you guys think. I say normal. |
There are too many variables involved to provide any definitive statements. It could well be something as simple as your barrel just doesn't "like" the M855 load (Occam's razor and such.) |
All hail Jeanne Assam!
All hail Jeanne Assam!
All hail Jeanne Assam!
| I swear, on my middie on the CCH I got, the shift was like 4" at 25 meters!!!! The one on my colt doesn't seem as drastic, but it's a 20"er also. Maybe I'll see what this CCH does on my carbine and steel the one from my colt as I don't shoot it as much. And if I swapped it would be less. Or get an A1 ap for my 20"er and try it out some. I don't know. But next time I shoot my carbine, I'll do a similar test to see how much it shifts. |
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Thank you, Molon, for illustrating and explaining these concepts over the course of this thread. You have created a very valuable resource here.
As referenced by Molon, the XS Sights page claims that an A2 aperture offset may be any one of three different variations (0.014, 0.017, or 0.024). They also make POI shift predictions based on these offset measurements combined with either a 20" or a 14.5" sight radius. That is all well and good, but how do we know which of the three offsets we have? How do we know that these predictions are correct? What was used to arrive at these conclusions? We will start with a very useful formula to keep handy - the Elevation Correction Formula. It is as follows: To determine the correct sight height to correct an elevation problem, multiply the sight radius by the elevation error and then divide the results by the distance to the target, in inches. Example (pistol values): Sight radius 5 3/4" = 5.75 Shooting 5 inches low Distance to target 25 feet or 300 inches 5.75 X 5 divided 300 = .09583 The front sight would have to be lowered .096 inch or the rear sight raised that amount (or a combination thereof) to raise the point of impact. What does this have to do with A2 aperture offsets? Based on this formula, an algebraic equation can be expressed as follows: (A) Aperture offset (defined as the difference in height between the centers of the apertures) Is equal to (R) Sight radius in inches Multiplied by (S) POI Shift in MOA Divided by 3600 (100 yards in inches) A = RS/3600 This tells us the aperture offset when we know the values of (R) Sight radius and (S) Shift in MOA. The value for (R) will be easy enough (either 14.5 or 20), but how do we know the value for (S)? Well, since the normal dispersion of fire combined with the use of iron sights will preclude nailing down this value with any degree of accuracy, we must reconfigure the above equation to solve for S (POI Shift in MOA). This yields the equation as follows: S = 3600A/R This is what we need. We need to know the POI shift in MOA. However, in order to solve this equation, we must have a value for (A) Aperture offset. Since this can be multiple values (0.014, 0.017, or 0.024), it will be necessary to physically measure the offset of the particular apertures so that the POI shift for a particular rifle can be determined. I measured the offset of my Colt's A2 apertures in order to determine what offset I am dealing with (0.014, 0.017, or 0.024). I took this measurement relative to the top of the rear sight base (in other words, the top of the uprights that are to either side of the aperture). It is important to measure relative to the top of the base because the heights of the aperture rings do not match - here I am referring to the top of the steel ring, not the top of the hole. Obviously, what must be measured is the center of the hole of the apertures relative to each other. I used a digital caliper to measure the smaller aperture hole for a result of 0.065. This number is divided by 2 to obtain 0.033. Then I placed a steel straightedge across the top of the base (a steel ruler should also work), and measured from the top surface of the straightedge to the TOP of the aperture hole (steel to steel contact) for a result of 0.283. This number is added to 0.033 to obtain 0.316, which is the distance from the top of the straightedge to the CENTER of the small aperture. Next, the same procedure is used for the large aperture hole. I found the hole to measure 0.195, divided by 2 is 0.098. The distance from the top of the straightedge to the TOP of the hole was 0.233, which when added to 0.098 is 0.331. The difference between 0.331 and 0.316 is 0.015, which is the aperture offset, and is damn close to 0.014. It will be necessary to measure very carefully, and to use a true (uniformly flat) straightedge because the offset differences are within a few thousandths of an inch. Now, the XS Sights page is giving us the POI shifts for the (in this case) 0.014 offset. According to them, the POI shift for a 20" sight radius will be 2.52 MOA, and the shift for a 14.5" sight radius will be 3.48 MOA. If we plug these values into the equation S = 3600A/R, we multiply 3600 x 0.014 to get 50.4. We then divide 50.4 by either 20 (rifle) to get 2.52 MOA, or 14.5 (carbine) to get 3.48 MOA. Let's say that you used the small aperture to zero at 50yd, but you want to flip to the large aperture for faster sight acquisition at close range. Now that we are able to define the POI shift in MOA, we can use the elevation adjustment values (given in the Colt Owner’s Manual) to determine how many clicks of the rear sight elevation wheel are needed to compensate for the shift. Note: the following assumes an aperture offset of 0.014. If your offset is different, use the equation to find the POI shift, and divide that number by the MOA value for each click in elevation. For a 20” sight radius with A2 upper, the elevation clicks are worth 1.00 MOA each, and the POI shift between apertures is 2.52 MOA. Divide 2.52 by 1.00 to get 2.52. Adjust the elevation wheel UP either 2 or 3 clicks to maintain the same zero when changing from small to large aperture. For a 20” sight radius with removable handle, the elevation clicks are worth 0.53 MOA each, and the POI shift between apertures is 2.52 MOA. Adjust the elevation wheel UP 5 clicks to maintain the same zero when changing from small to large aperture. For a 17.25" sight radius with A2 upper, the elevation clicks are worth 1.215 MOA each, and the POI shift between apertures is 2.92 MOA. Adjust the elevation wheel UP either 2 or 3 clicks to maintain the same zero when changing from small aperture to large aperture. For a 17.25" sight radius with removable handle, the elevation clicks are worth 0.585 MOA each, and the POI shift between apertures is 2.92 MOA. Adjust the elevation wheel UP 5 clicks to maintain the same zero when changing from small to large aperture. For a 14.5” sight radius with A2 upper, the elevation clicks are worth 1.43 MOA each, and the POI shift between apertures is 3.48 MOA. Adjust the elevation wheel UP either 2 or 3 clicks to maintain the same zero when changing from small to large aperture. For a 14.5” sight radius with removable handle, the elevation clicks are worth 0.65 MOA each, and the POI shift between apertures is 3.48 MOA. Adjust the elevation wheel UP 5 clicks to maintain the same zero when changing from small to large aperture. Hallorann Little Rock |
Uh....the Marines were pretty much doing that in the 80's. Our sights were always set up different than army. 8/3-2 was zero setting shot at 200 meter line on the KD range. Not to take anything away from this illuminating thread because I've been confused and baffled with sight settings before. heck I didn't know that there was a center shift between the two sights for years, I thought it was just for poor light and Oh shit distance engangements. I should print a lot of this out and run the numbers on the range and make my own spread sheets. |
Outstanding!!
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All hail Jeanne Assam!
Strong work! Your 1 7/8" shift would be 3.75 MOA; look how close that comes to the theoretical shift of 3.48 MOA. |
All hail Jeanne Assam!
Yeah, I'm sure there was some user error. So, it's probably the ap that is supposed to be 3.48 MOA. I can live with that. I'm finally totally comfortable with my A2 Sight. Although I admit, I didn't see how how it will be hitting at 100 with the small ap. I guess that'll be my next thing. But I was happy with at least "combat" type accuracy with the big ap. It appears that with the big ap it's probably going to be a little high at 100 and then with the small ap it will probably be about 4-5" high. Maybe I'll get real anal and shoot some all bagged up real good at 100 and see where it hits. |
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I just finished putting together a mid-length gas system frankengun (I owe credit to PK Firearms for the upper build). It has the aforementioned mid length gas system, a PRI flip up front sight and a RRA Dominator2 BUIS (6/3 wheel). I have already adjusted the elevation wheel for 6/3 -8 and set a mechanical zero and quickly checked with a laser bore sighter to be sure I was in the ballpark. My question: With the mid length system, should I expect any notable differences in clicks when adjusting for range after I set zero following RIBZ procedure? I would think that because the mid-length's sight radius (17.5" I believe?) is between that of a carbine (14.5") and a rifle (20") that I could probably use the settings for a carbine to adjust for range with minimal error. Unfortunately, I rarely have the opportunity to get to the range, let alone a rifle range. If somebody could offer there experience using the RIBZ with a mid-length platform, I would be grateful. joe |
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Quick question, I have a Bushy A2 set for RIBZ at 8/3-3 . I just acquired a RRA NMA2 with 1/4" x 1/4" rear sight. Do I need to double the number of clicks to 8/3-6 assuming I initially set the elevation drum offset at 6 clicks for my 100yd zero? I wasn't sure if the theread was assuming 1/2" x 1/2" sights. Tnx-- |
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RIBZ - - Revised Improved Battlesight Zero (Page 3 of 11)
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