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Posted: 11/13/2006 3:55:37 PM EDT
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Hello, I just got my MATECH BUIS and Aimpoint ML2, and I went ahead and put about a hundred rounds through it, but it's not quite zeroed yet. Last time I went, I just aimed pretty close at a bottle at about 20yds while I had someone spotting for me tell me if I was hitting high or low, and using some good ol' Kentucky windage for some plinking. On the other hand, I'd really like to sight my new sights in properly, I have a bunch of military M16A2 zeroing sights that I printed out, and the file saved on my computer that I was using with my DCH (for better or worse, I managed to get it sighted in properly, I guessed that the A2 sights and DCH sights would have been identical for zeroing purposes, but this site has got me second guessing myself!). Anyways, all that now being said, is there a proper zeroing procedure for the MATECH BUIS? I know I can always toss a target out on to the range, and shoot until I get it, but I'd prefer to use the A2 zeroing targets, a) because I've got plenty of them, and b) I've shot at many an M16A2 zeroing target, and I know how to use them. Will the windage and front sight post adjustments still work with the MATECH BUIS? Also, what elevation should I have the MATECH on to zero it at 25m? With the A2, I know it's one click past 8/3, and I was doing one past 6/3 with my DCH (it's also a 100yd range, so I don't really have much of a chance to verify much past 50m, especially on an unregulated public range, where you have to holler down the line back and forth to go check your targets, and I haven't got a spotter scope), what should I set my MATECH to? Is it the line under the 300 marking? On the 300? The 200? BTW, the Aimpoint is set up for absolute cowitness, so to zero I'm just going to adjust it to sit on the front sight post, and fire a couple rounds to verify. Also, I'm using an F marked FSB on a CMMG 14.7" M4 barrel with a flattop, and the MATECH mounted to the rearmost notch. Thanks, ~Augee |
| Make sure your range is set at the 300 meter mark. Zeros pretty much the same way as the standard A2/A3 Iron sights. As for the windage, I was taught to align the windage mark (big white line that moves) with the center mark on the non moving set of lines (sorry for lack of proper terminology) in order to set an initial "zero." If you have the m16 zeroing targets then you should be able to work from there quite easily. |
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