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Posted: 7/11/2006 5:55:37 AM EDT
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Can anyone with an RRA NM A2 give me some tips on how to properly zero one? Most of my match shooting will be done at 200 yards. The sights on the rifle are 1/4 x 1/4 x .04. I am new to the AR system, and I'm sure that you guys probably have some great tips. Thanks |
| For a match rifle I'd talk with the guys in the Competition & Accurate Shooting Forum over in the General section |
I'd recheck your numbers. Zeroing at 25meters (only 2.3 yards differnces) gives a 325m zero (M16A1 with M193). Doing it even closer will push the far crossover point further out. Most of us zero at 50y with our carbines to get a 200M zero... |
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Targeting for elevation is simple if the rifle is equipped with the A2 type square front post with four detent notches in the flange. (Replace any older round post, five notch design) Each notch represents approximately 1.2 minutes of elevation change, about 2.5 inches at 200 yards. Clockwise rotation raises point of impact. Front sight posts that have been tapered on the sides and top to present a sharper profile should only be adjusted in full 360 degree rotations, which will result in nearly five minutes of change. Finer elevation adjustments will have to be done with a file. For typical 68, 69, 75 and 80 grain bulleted loads, target for center hits at 200 yards with the rear sight three to four minutes above bottom. On a RRA NM A2, at 200 yards you should be 3 minutes up in the rear and the front sight nearly flush with the base. Remember: the top of the front sight is tapered, keep the higher end towards you (so that it slopes away from your eye.) |
+1 Forget all the "tactical", "CQB", "home defense", "Blackhawk", "Santose", "IBZ" or whatever zeroing methods. Not a single one of those is precise enough for competition. The basic idea is to know exactly how many minutes of angle do you need to come up from mechanical zero (first whole click up from bottom) for every yard line you will fire from. |
You are right and I stand corrected. I rechecked my #'s |
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