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Posted: 4/7/2014 12:56:01 PM EDT
| I was wondering why some AR's will shoot it and some don't? I have a DPMS Recon and the rifle just wont shoot it at all. I have tried all the brands and only Herters will work sometimes and even then every 5 rounds it wont cycle the rifle. Would love some answers. |
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I was wondering why some AR's will shoot it and some don't? I have a DPMS Recon and the rifle just wont shoot it at all. I have tried all the brands and only Herters will work sometimes and even then every 5 rounds it wont cycle the rifle. Would love some answers. It's often under powered, therefore causes cycling issues in some rifles. Lightening your buffer will usually help, but seeings as you have a DPMS, I'm sure it came with a carbine buffer which is already the lightest buffer I know of. That said, all my AR's shoot steel fine - even with H and H2 buffers... |
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it wont cycle the rifle Has nothing to do with lube. Steel ammo being under powered causes cycling issues in some guns. Plain and simple. Quoted:
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If you are properly lubing the gun there shouldn't be any problems. What problems are you having? it wont cycle the rifle Has nothing to do with lube. Steel ammo being under powered causes cycling issues in some guns. Plain and simple. Not getting into a pissing match with ya. The OP asked a question and didn't elaborate on the particular issue with the ammo/gun. I've never had ANY steel cased ammo not cycle a gun, thus my question. You can take it from here... |
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Lube or even over-lubrication is not always the answer. Most steel cased ammo is the cheap stuff like Tula or Wolf (for what I found Wolf is far better). But what they seem to do is use a fast burning cheap powder. The powder burn rate is different enough to be not correct for the operation system in your rifle.
Think of the burn rate as a power curve. Sometimes it peaks before it has enough residue energy to power the complete operation. Not enough gas left to put enough energy in the gas tube. Best fix; try to lighten the buffer (even take out a weight... that is drastic). I have a AR pistol it likes to rip of the rim off (extraction groove) where it is engaged by the extractor. Since the peak pressure peaks at the gas port. (but it shoots well except for that pesky extraction thing). The hard part for a semi-auto rifle operation is to have ammo that gets the powder charge right. Tula 
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it wont cycle the rifle Has nothing to do with lube. Steel ammo being under powered causes cycling issues in some guns. Plain and simple. Quoted:
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If you are properly lubing the gun there shouldn't be any problems. What problems are you having? it wont cycle the rifle Has nothing to do with lube. Steel ammo being under powered causes cycling issues in some guns. Plain and simple. The problem isn't caused by lack of lube but if you're running low powered ammo and a dry gun then it can help in some cases. Seen it first hand. |
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My personal experiences: I shoot BCM's exclusively. Haven't had any issues with steel cased ammo in them.
What I have seen: People with DPMS, Stag, and other non-mil-spec guns usually choke or hard lock with steel cased ammo. Also note: If I'm dumping like 120-150 rounds super fast my BCMs will choke on steel cased. |
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Not all steel cased is the same. I run Brown or Silver Bear in all my rifles, and they all shoot it just fine.
Tula/old Wolf - more than half those same rifles would not cycle reliably with it - including my factory Colt R6500, my FNC and my Daewoo DR-200 (last two are piston rifles, btw). |
| My bcm 14.5 carbine and 11.5 spikes both will run tula or Wolf with out issues 99.9% of the time. I have had only one round that did not eject fully which gave me a chance to practice a failure. Cleared jam and emptied the mag. My bcm has probably 2k of Wolf out of the 5k through it with zeros malfunctions the Spikes has seen 500 rounds of tula with one |
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Not all steel cased is the same. I run Brown or Silver Bear in all my rifles, and they all shoot it just fine. Tula/old Wolf - more than half those same rifles would not cycle reliably with it - including my factory Colt R6500, my FNC and my Daewoo DR-200 (last two are piston rifles, btw). This. |
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I was wondering why some AR's will shoot it and some don't? I have a DPMS Recon and the rifle just wont shoot it at all. I have tried all the brands and only Herters will work sometimes and even then every 5 rounds it wont cycle the rifle. Would love some answers. Can you give us more details? - Does normal ammo run without issue? - What is the round count of your gun? - Have you changed any of the factory parts? - How long has it been since you've properly cleaned your chamber? |
| Thanks for all the advice so far. Let me try and give you guys some more info. All brass case ammo I have tried works great and with no problems at all, and I have put all ammo that is available from Cabelas and Walmart through it and it functions without a hiccup. I have about a thousand rounds through the rifle and clean it and lube it up after every couple of hundred rounds. I have added a Raptor charging handle and that's it. I would like to shoot steel case ammo just because its cheap but its not going to ruin my world if I cant. Like most you guys I just like to know how my weapon works and if there is any problems that can be solved by getting some advice. Thanks again. |
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Quoted: Good advice for the OP. Thank you, sir. Quoted: Quoted: I don't shot steel case ammo..... period. Only brass for me. Good advice for the OP. Thank you, sir. |
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Baloney, I've shot mountains of the stuff, it's great for stuff like carbine classes where most of the shooting is relatively short range. Quoted:
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I don't shot steel case ammo..... period. Only brass for me. Good advice for the OP. Thank you, sir. I like for the times when I don't want to have to pick up my brass. |
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Thanks for all the advice so far. Let me try and give you guys some more info. All brass case ammo I have tried works great and with no problems at all, and I have put all ammo that is available from Cabelas and Walmart through it and it functions without a hiccup. I have about a thousand rounds through the rifle and clean it and lube it up after every couple of hundred rounds. I have added a Raptor charging handle and that's it. I would like to shoot steel case ammo just because its cheap but its not going to ruin my world if I cant. Like most you guys I just like to know how my weapon works and if there is any problems that can be solved by getting some advice. Thanks again. Thanks for the additional details. I'd still like to know more about what ammo you've used, but I'll make some assumptions for now. Are you just shooting Herter's and Tula. I know Tula is weak, not sure about Herter's. If this is the steel cased ammo you are using, trying something else. It's not clear what kind of malfunctions you're suffering. Does the spent case eject but a new one not load? Does the spent case not extract at all? Does the round get extracted but not fully ejected? It sounds like your best solution would be to run hotter ammo (or try a lighter buffer), but if your extractor is mediocre it could be playing a role here as well. |
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Not all steel cased is the same. I run Brown or Silver Bear in all my rifles, and they all shoot it just fine. Tula/old Wolf - more than half those same rifles would not cycle reliably with it - including my factory Colt R6500, my FNC and my Daewoo DR-200 (last two are piston rifles, btw). I have used Silver Bear 55gr. HP and it runs just fine in my 18" 1/8 wylde mid length build. |
| Well to be more specific I was shooting Herters and it would shoot a couple of rounds and not fully eject and the rifle would try and chamber another round. I have also shot Wolf and Golden bear and had similar results. So is there a way to tell what weight buffer I have in my rifle or do I have to weigh it? Also do I have to change a spring along with the buffer? |
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