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Posted: 3/2/2012 3:26:26 PM EDT
| Has anyone had any issues with Tulammo misfeeds? I had about 10 out of 60 fail to feed today. One magazine was the standard one that came with my Windham, the other was a Magpul polymer. At first I thought it was just an issue with the standard magazine but it happened to both. The bolt carrier came forward but never chambered a round. Any ideas? |
| Stuff can be underpowered... I got that all the time with aluminum c products mags and steel case ammo. I get best results with pmags, but it still happens from time to time, where it will kinda strip the round halfway out of the magazine and stop. Decent malfunction clearing training, wouldn't run the stuff in a class but for plinking and just rec shooting at the range I could care less. |
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Tula ammo seems to be a problem waiting to happen. Too many otherwhise perfectly functioning rifles have problems with Tula to give cause of repairs to the rifle. Is the weapon lubed well? When the weather allows, lube it, try other mags, and try other ammo before making other changes. Tula is known for lack of quality control, supposedly they are working to improve.
Try other ammo, your rifle is probably fine. Search Tula ammo and see how many have problems with it. HTH |
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Hmmm....I thought maybe my magazines didn't like the steel cases. Its not the steel as much as its the underpowered tula. get some WPA or one of the bears Get Wolf WPA Mil-Classic (in the camo box).. the price is like low $4.xx/box and is HOTTER.. Its not your rifle/mags.. its the underpowered ammo... |
The only difference i have personally seen between brass cased ammo and Tulammo in my rifle is the location where the cases hit the floor. Brass will come out at a 3 o'clock position, but steel will come out at a 5 o'clock position. Had a left handed friend shoot my right handed Bushy, hi-larious. Eye protection is always a good investment. 
Otherwise no problems to report. |
| I have a registered M16 that has been flawless with Wolf. I am now trying Tula and the exact same thing happens, the bolt will not catch the rim of the case resulting is a bolt going over the case resulting in a FTF. With brass case it works fine. I do not know if I have a bad lot of TULA, or the case rim diameter is a hair smaller than the brass stuff I have. |
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Quoted: I have a registered M16 that has been flawless with Wolf. I am now trying Tula and the exact same thing happens, the bolt will not catch the rim of the case resulting is a bolt going over the case resulting in a FTF. With brass case it works fine. I do not know if I have a bad lot of TULA, or the case rim diameter is a hair smaller than the brass stuff I have. tula doesn't run as well in my m16 as well |
| I had some serious Failures to Feed last time I shot some Tulaammo .223, it turned out my carrier key was loose, when I took it off I found the hole was halfway clogged with carbon and the carrier screws were loose. After a quick cleaning and removal of the carbon I reinstalled the key with locktite and staked it, now it runs like a champ. I attribute the carbon to the 2,000 rounds of Wolf Black box that I shot before. |
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My BCM 14.5" mid-length short stroked on Tula constantly when I first shot it. After some break-in with M193, it'll run it fine now. It always ran OK in my carbine gas and rifle length guns. It's just underpowered. I paid 3.99 per box at Cabela's for it. I think it's important to get a new rifle broken in with quality ammo. NOT the barrel (I have not drunk that Kool Aid and probably never will), but the whole gun. There are sliding contact surfaces that need to work in before they run smoothly, and a couple hundred rounds of full-power stuff (with thorough cleaning - GI ammo is kind of dirty sometimes) will make a huge difference. Once broken in, a new rifle should run with lower-powered ammunition, but straight out of a box there is too much that's tight and not yet smooth. |
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OP, the same thing happened to me. BCG would not strip the next round of Tula. My rifle was about 600 rounds dirty though. I switched to Silver Bear and she ran fine. I believe that Tula is under powered and the rifle didn't cycle properly. I have a ST-15 with a ST-T2 buffer, probably like yours. Its not the rifle, its the Tula. Spend a bit more for WPA or Silver Bear (about $1 more/box) and you'll be happy.
I haven't had the issue since. I ran 300 rounds of steel ammo (Silver Bear and Hornady) last weekend with no problems. Gun was a bit dirty, though. |
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I went out today to shoot my Stags. I wanted to try out the TulAmmo and had failure to extract on all of the ammo I bought. Good thing I only bought 60 rounds. The rim of most of the TulAmmo broke and stayed lodged in the barrel. It fed fine, just didn't want to pull out (LOLOLOL) TulAmmo was a nightmare on the range today.
I will never buy steel case ammo from them again...heck, I wont even buy steel case ammo ever... Brass only for me. |
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I had problems with failure to extract and the extractor tearing the rim off once in a while when using a Spikes H-buffer. I switched back to the normal carbine buffer and the problems ceased. When I tapped the stuck casings out with a cleaning rod they were barely in there, this would lead me to the "underpowered ammo" conclusion. |
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Thanks for this information everyone. I just put together a double star AR-15 and was looking at inexpensive ammo to get to zero the sights. I looked at this at the local Walmart (probably first problem) and they said most people don't use this ammo because it ends up becoming very messy to clean up.
Well, I went ahead and grabbed 120 rounds of it, but haven't gotten to the range yet. I'll see what my build ends up doing and let you know, but I did load up a magazine and just charged the bolt to see how it operated. Had a few FTF; but that very well could be because I haven't really oiled the bolt yet. I'll do that, then perform the same test on it and see how it handles just the extracting of the rounds. Obviously I'm planning on lubing up the bolt carrier before I fire it; that kinda goes without saying. I have always put a "thin coat" of oil on the bolt manually; is that the best solution these days? |
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I don't know exactly why there are issues with tula. My cousin has nothing but problems with it in his bushmaster, but my buddy and I have never had any issue with it in our rifles. We all use carbine length rifles. In fact other than xm193 tula is the only ammo that I've never had a malfuntion with. I'd say I've probably put north of 1000rds of tula through with no issues.
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I don't know exactly why there are issues with tula. My cousin has nothing but problems with it in his bushmaster, but my buddy and I have never had any issue with it in our rifles. We all use carbine length rifles. In fact other than xm193 tula is the only ammo that I've never had a malfuntion with. I'd say I've probably put north of 1000rds of tula through with no issues. It must be a batch to batch variation that causes problems. Some Tula seems ok, some seems not so ok. You hear of more problematic rifles when using Tula than any other brand. So far, I am not aware of any Tula kabooms, but any company that has poor quality control probably depends on luck (as do it's customers). I believe there are many more kabooms (with all ammo) related to short charges than to over charges. If your rifle shoots Tula fine, go for it if that is your choice. For plinking, and just for fun, Tula works mostly. I would never trust this ammo for SHTF when there are better choices for a little more cost. It's your money and your choice, I hope it works for you (safely). |
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The trouble with Tula is that it really varies, round to round, with some individual rounds being very underpowered. If you have a rifle that is a little sensitive to weak ammo, when you get one of those really weak rounds you'll get problems. Rifles that are overgassed (or, I find, use the carbine length gas system, as a general rule) usually fair better. Sometimes its worth lightening the buffer if shooting this ammo.
Brown/Silver Bear and WPA seem to be slightly hotter than Tula in general, but the big point is that it is also much more consistent round to round, which is why I'd always recommend that vs Tula. |
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The trouble with Tula is that it really varies, round to round, with some individual rounds being very underpowered. If you have a rifle that is a little sensitive to weak ammo, when you get one of those really weak rounds you'll get problems. Rifles that are overgassed (or, I find, use the carbine length gas system, as a general rule) usually fair better. Sometimes its worth lightening the buffer if shooting this ammo. Brown/Silver Bear and WPA seem to be slightly hotter than Tula in general, but the big point is that it is also much more consistent round to round, which is why I'd always recommend that vs Tula. Yep. If I run anything heavier than an H2 buffer or anything stronger than a standard carbine spring, Tula/Bears/Wolf will short stroke in my LMT. However, Privi or LC M855 or any of the M193 clones will run fine I've also had a number of fail to fires with Tula that I don't have with the Bears/New Wolfs. Chamber the round a second time, and it will fire though. That's with .223 though. .308 Tula kicks ass. 
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