AR Sponsor
Posted: 12/26/2010 1:55:30 PM EDT
|
Sorry if this is a repeat, but I just read it for the first time and found it very informative. I have actually read that having oil in the safe with your ammunition will kill primers from the "oil vapor". anyway, here it is, from the box-o-truth.
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot39.htm This actually made me feel a lot better. I think I'll try it with some of my rifle rounds and report my findings. |
| I guess I would worry about if I stored oil without a cap on it, at a temperature where it would create oil vapor, inside of my safe, and if I actually kept exposed ammo inside the same safe. Which is pretty fucking stupid, considering that I can barely fit the guns I have in there, let alone extra ammo. |
|
Quoted:
I guess I would worry about if I stored oil without a cap on it, at a temperature where it would create oil vapor, inside of my safe, and if I actually kept exposed ammo inside the same safe. Which is pretty fucking stupid, considering that I can barely fit the guns I have in there, let alone extra ammo. You didn't read the article did you? |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
I guess I would worry about if I stored oil without a cap on it, at a temperature where it would create oil vapor, inside of my safe, and if I actually kept exposed ammo inside the same safe. Which is pretty fucking stupid, considering that I can barely fit the guns I have in there, let alone extra ammo. You didn't read the article did you? Sure did. Did you have anything to add? |
|
I have tried oils (WD40, 3-in-1, Hoppes gun oil...), solvents including acetone, alcohol, Hoppes #9, and oddball choices like vinegar. I have never been able to get a primer to die, no matter how hard I tried.
The construction of the primer is responsible for this. The primer cup has a drop of (at the time) liquid priming compound deposited in it. This is dried (kiln, air, combination). Then a foil disc that fits VERY tightly in the cup is applied-the disc is larger in diameter than the cup's interior, and it's apparently placed with a very tight punch. Then a lacquer material is applied on top of the foil disc and allowed to dry. THEN the anvil is placed in the primer cup. Sometimes the anvil also has a lacquer drop applied to it as well. If you can get past the lacquer, you have to get past the extremely tight foil-to-cup joint, which is far too tight for any fluid to wick through. To kill a primer, you would have to disassemble the anvil from it and then somehow damage the foil to get your "deactivating chemical" into it. Otherwise, liquids and vapors are definitely a no-go for "killing" primers. |
|
Quoted:
I have tried oils (WD40, 3-in-1, Hoppes gun oil...), solvents including acetone, alcohol, Hoppes #9, and oddball choices like vinegar. I have never been able to get a primer to die, no matter how hard I tried. The construction of the primer is responsible for this. The primer cup has a drop of (at the time) liquid priming compound deposited in it. This is dried (kiln, air, combination). Then a foil disc that fits VERY tightly in the cup is applied-the disc is larger in diameter than the cup's interior, and it's apparently placed with a very tight punch. Then a lacquer material is applied on top of the foil disc and allowed to dry. THEN the anvil is placed in the primer cup. Sometimes the anvil also has a lacquer drop applied to it as well. If you can get past the lacquer, you have to get past the extremely tight foil-to-cup joint, which is far too tight for any fluid to wick through. To kill a primer, you would have to disassemble the anvil from it and then somehow damage the foil to get your "deactivating chemical" into it. Otherwise, liquids and vapors are definitely a no-go for "killing" primers. In the 60's and up through the early 80's it was possible to kill a primer with WD-40, Oil, etc. The changes since then in the manufacture process and compounds used have eliminated the problem. |
|
I second the previous post...back inthe 70's I saw LOTS of dead primers from WD-40.
My favorite story...I was working for a 50 man NJ Dept that had it's share of action and shootings. Several of us responded to assist a pair of our Detectives who had a druggie armed with a 12 ga sawed off in an alley behind a Bar. The were covering him with their 2" snubbies from behind some sort of cover. Minutes later we arrived and seeing he was toast if he should engage us...he gave up. Days later it was ANNUAL qualifications time. We ALL shot up our DUTY ammo, for the Qual then were issued new ammo for that next year. The two Detectives could not get a SINGLE round from their two snubbiies to fire!! As they say..."Further investigation revealed".... the two dicks would periodically spray their cylinders down with WD-40 to CLEAN their guns...then wipe off the gun with a rag. 
|
|
Quoted:
I have tried oils (WD40, 3-in-1, Hoppes gun oil...), solvents including acetone, alcohol, Hoppes #9, and oddball choices like vinegar. I have never been able to get a primer to die, no matter how hard I tried. The construction of the primer is responsible for this. The primer cup has a drop of (at the time) liquid priming compound deposited in it. This is dried (kiln, air, combination). Then a foil disc that fits VERY tightly in the cup is applied-the disc is larger in diameter than the cup's interior, and it's apparently placed with a very tight punch. Then a lacquer material is applied on top of the foil disc and allowed to dry. THEN the anvil is placed in the primer cup. Sometimes the anvil also has a lacquer drop applied to it as well. If you can get past the lacquer, you have to get past the extremely tight foil-to-cup joint, which is far too tight for any fluid to wick through. To kill a primer, you would have to disassemble the anvil from it and then somehow damage the foil to get your "deactivating chemical" into it. Otherwise, liquids and vapors are definitely a no-go for "killing" primers. I got some free ammo from Remington. I had a few duds in 222rem 50gr MC (my Bolt Action) I sent the duds to remington They said it was oil that caused to duds? When I first started reloading. I loaded up a 9mm 124gr FMJ without useing any primmer sealer I sat the rd in a glass of water over night. It went bang the next day. |
AR Sponsor