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Posted: 1/27/2005 5:36:31 PM EDT
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Any experience? I did a search, didn't find anything. Figure it might be like Wolf, but nickle steel instead of poly / laquer coated steel case. I just ordered some for SHTF ammo...anyone shot this stuff? |
You might have missed the BOLD, TACKED post right at the top of the ammo forum: Ammunition review and reference. Definitely NOT first choice for SHTF. [Edited to add] You DID read the ammo FAQ tacked to the top of the page right? |
I've shot mine pretty fresh out of the sealed case. Haven't noticed any problems. |
If it sits is when it shows up. Strange thing is it doesnt happen on all. Xome in that same box will do it some wont. |
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The Bear line of ammo is interesting: They will use brass plated steel cases or zinc plated steel cases on the Silver/Golden bear ammo. Russian "mil-spec" ammo is lacquer coated steel casing with a bi-metal bullet (copper washed steel) with a lead core. The sealant they use for the primer and bullet necks is a waxy material that does not dissolve when in contact with WD-40, CLP, and most similar products. It WILL melt and stick to metal if you expose it to a lot of heat. In my 7.62x39 Vepr K (RPK), it has a chrome lined chamber and bore and I've never run into a malfunction using Russian "mil-spec" ammo. The sealants collect in the receiver but nothing sticks long in the chamber. The lacquer has been a non-issue for me. If you're concerned about lacquer build up in your chamber, do this: Back to .223/5.56N and the use of lacquer coated casing: Load up a 30 rd mag using brass cased ammo for the last round or two. The brass casing will seat in the chamber and a LOT of the lacquer will stick to it because everything is hot. When you load a new mag, the chamber will cool somewhat but most of the lacquer is gone so the next round that strips from the mag should not run into a feed malfunction. My big complaint about Wolf .223 is how it's underpowered. I understand its loaded as close to .223 SAAMI spec rather than 5.56N but Wolf always underloads their cartridges (7.62x39 with cheap bullets). .223 Wolf uses copper jacketed bullets rather than bi-metal, FWIW. Shooting 55gr Wolf through my 24" 1 in 9 Bushy H-Bar, I get about the same groups as XM193 at 100yd - roughly 2"-3". I'd gladly use Wolf if the damn things cycled my rifle properly. They're not powerful enough to cycle fully with my Wolff XP action spring. XM193 slaps the buffer back like it was its biznatch (hotter 5.56N load of course). I recommended Wolf try to load for 5.56N spec since they err on the side of less powerful charging anyhow - but if they aim for 5.56N, they'll probably load it just right to .223 SAAMI spec. 
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 On a serious note, I'm kind of torn on Silver Bear. I've been shooting Wolf or whatever else is cheapest since my rifles don't have a problem, and Silver Bear is a little higher. The only jam I've ever had in an AR came on 1 round of a case of 500 of the Silver Bear. Slightly stuck case, extractor tore of rim. Easily tapped it out with a cleaning rod. This is probably due to the fact that it has the sealant around the bullet, but who knows. On the other hand, it's significantly hotter than Wolf, and also appears to fragment (62gr. HPs) based on a couple of rounds I fired into water. The price is also not that bad anymore as Wolf is becoming more expensive. I added my original info to the bottom of the Silver Bear thread. |
My tool box rifle is a saiga 223 and I leave the silver bears in the mag and a buttstock pouch and they are all covered in white corrosion, but they always go bang. Even after a year in the moisture, heat and cold... I don't use it in my AR's although if they weren't HP's I would with no hesitation. |
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