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Posted: 7/4/2012 1:30:57 PM EDT
I cannot find a 22LR upper that has all the features I want. Are there any hazards in buying the parts and making your own 22LR upper? I've built centerfire uppers that are surprisingly good (so it must be easy to do  ).
I have all the tools to do the job right, at least all the ones I know of. Are there any tricks in assembly or some such that will result in a DIY job not working right? Things I thought I wanted in the build: 1. Smooth sided, flat top upper receiver (no forward assist, case deflector optional) 2. Free float handguard, round(ish), ~12" long (that covers where the gas block would be) 3. Light weight, cylindrical barrel (0.625" to 0.75" diameter X ~16" long, no flash hider, no front sight needed)* 4. CMMG stainless steel bolt package * Does anyone know the outer diameter of the TACCOM barrel? Even though the diameter is larger, it's probably light enough for my needs. I Need to know to determine if I have (or can get) a clamp-on front sight for it. I don't want the government pattern with the grenade launcher recess and flash hider. |
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I think the 22 rimfires builds are easier because there is no gas tube and no gas port in the barrel to line up. I bought a CMMG 22 rimfire barrel and collar from Brownell's and used a fixed F marked front site tower. The site tower had threaded holes where the taper pins normally go through the barrel. This sight was very simple to line up and install. I used Loctite on the screws but I've also used a couple of different railed gas blocks on 22's which are easy to install.
Probably the cheapest way to get an upper configured exactly the way you want. I had all the parts except the barrel and collar so my M-4 22 upper was a snap to assemble. |
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Assembly should be no problem. If you went with the 1 inch Barrel you could just go with a rail mounted sight of some kind on your freefloat handguard.
As far as FSBs or such that would be tough one on a 1 inch barrel. One mounted on the front rail would suffice fine though I would think..This is of course assuming you are atleast going to use a freefloat with a top rail ..They are easy to find that configuration.. I have a clampon FSB here and was looking at it one time to see if it would have enough meat left if a guy bored the hole out to fit a 1 inch barrel and the one I have in particuliar would be very close to working.. |
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I think the 22 rimfires builds are easier because there is no gas tube and no gas port in the barrel to line up. I bought a CMMG 22 rimfire barrel and collar from Brownell's and used a fixed F marked front site tower. The site tower had threaded holes where the taper pins normally go through the barrel. This sight was very simple to line up and install. I used Loctite on the screws but I've also used a couple of different railed gas blocks on 22's which are easy to install. Probably the cheapest way to get an upper configured exactly the way you want. I had all the parts except the barrel and collar so my M-4 22 upper was a snap to assemble. +1 - I put together a mid-length Spike's(?) barrel bought on the EE with a Spike's bolt and collar on a flat top upper. My friend and I just cranked the barrel on - as per VASCAR2 - no need to line up the gastube. Screw type F marked FSB. Now I have a perfect match for my CMMG midlength 5.56 upper.
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1. Smooth sided, flat top upper receiver (no forward assist, case deflector optional)
DPMS Lo Pro - $116 
2. Free float handguard RRA - $75 
MWI - $180 
3. Light weight barrel TACCOM barrel 
4. CMMG stainless steel bolt package |
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Does anyone understand which product to order from CMMG? I find their web site unintelligible. Just order the Bravo kit http://cmmginc.secure-mall.com/item/Model-BRAVO-1820 The TacCom barrel will come with its own collar which you will use to replace the chamber adapter from the CMMG kit. ETA: I've found CMMG's dedicated 22LR charging handles to provide a "value add" (They're "filled in" so they keep a particularly bad jam where shell casing gets knocked up into the hollow of the C.H. from happening). In my view the bolt hold open adapters are a waste of time and finicky to set up –– just get mags with followers that hold the bolt open. Likewise, "forward assist" on a 22LR seems like a problem in search of more problems. If a 22LR round won't chamber, I see almost zero benefit to hulk-smashing it into battery. If you consider a rail with a full length rail on top, remember that the DPMS low pro receiver (in my recollection) has its own rail slightly LOWER than where the rail on an A3 lies. Instead of the DPMS, consider a 9mm slab side upper (Model 1 lists them here, but they may be out of stock: https://www.model1sales.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=415) These are actually less beefy than the DPMS low pro which is an extruded part. More importantly, they are true A3 height so they'll interface properly with a full length top rail on the handguard so you can have flip up front and rear sights that line up with each other. ETA2. Strikeouts, because I'm told that the more recent DPMS low-pro receivers are right to spec at A3 height these days. You might want to verify with DPMS. Of course, if you're paying for the reportedly very good Tac Com barrel, you may elect to just go with some good optics and omit iron sights all together. |
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You're on the right course to an Awesome build. I don't see any pitfalls to the parts
you want to use. With a TACCOM Barrel you won't even need to consider barrel pin alignment to the upper receiver. No pin so no alignment issues. Just torque the barrel nut to 30 ft lbs and you're GTG. 500 or so rounds of Copper Wash 22's to break in the barrel and you'll have a nice / accurate and dependable AR-22. |
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1. Smooth sided, flat top upper receiver (no forward assist, case deflector optional)
Midway has DPMS lo-pros on sale for $77.99 this month. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/138383/dpms-upper-receiver-stripped-ar-15-low-profile-flat-top-matte |
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I bought a Bravo kit last month from these guys for $167 + shipping. Cheapest price I found. Wholesale Hunter
Marty |
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emailed him a while back. He said maybe by the end of summer or beginning of fall threaded barrels could be out (Note: this might have changed due to his stuff becoming popular thanks to Dave and Dave and others).
So here I sit waiting to see what happens. But the more people ask maybe the faster it will happen 
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The thing is, even with the low prices you guys are showing, I am still over $500 for a DIY upper ($479 + tax + S&H). Hit the EE my friend. I have Ciener kits in two of my 22LR set ups. They run perfectly. So much of it has been bad magazines that with the CMMG and BLACK DOG mags there's a lot of help for old Ciener kits. You can get the Ciener kits all day long for $99.00 So telephone CMMG. Pay $125 ish for a light weight 16" barrel. Its no Tac Com, but still quite serviceable. Used upper: $75 or less. Pick up an el cheapo FF rail from the EE. They're all over. $50 Done. $350 bux if you tough it out. Heck, my daughter's LH model had some core expensive LH parts (the stag upper, the ciener specialized LH bolt and collar) and I still came in under $450 for the upper. |
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Uppers are like cars, motorcycles, and women....you can spend a little, you can spend a lot. Set your budget and you can put together an upper for a fair price. Now, if you start wanting to date a movie starlet you better dig deep and start laying out some green...oh, just like a fancy .22 upper. When you start throwing $250 rails and stuff on them the price tag goes way up! If you are just building a shooter, you can put something together for far less. Do you really need all that junk on your little .22 to go shoot tin cans at the range? Or, are you a competition shooter who really needs that last little edge to push you over the top.
You decide what fits your wallet. |
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Uppers are like cars, motorcycles, and women....you can spend a little, you can spend a lot. Set your budget and you can put together an upper for a fair price. Now, if you start wanting to date a movie starlet you better dig deep and start laying out some green...oh, just like a fancy .22 upper. When you start throwing $250 rails and stuff on them the price tag goes way up! If you are just building a shooter, you can put something together for far less. Do you really need all that junk on your little .22 to go shoot tin cans at the range? Or, are you a competition shooter who really needs that last little edge to push you over the top. You decide what fits your wallet. Indeed, but I was thinking about a fairly simple build (no rails) and I'm still up over $500. The railed fore arm adds $100 to that. By contrast, I can buy a complete S&W 15-22 (with sights) for less than that. I can buy a Savage target rifle (bolt action) with sights for less than that. That realization is what's bugging me. It's why I haven't ordered the parts. |
| You can buy a CMMG Sierra upper cheaper than you can build one unless you already own parts that you are not using. I already had all the parts I needed but the barrel and collar. When I built my upper I built it up just like a CMMG M4LE but saved a few bucks. I can see why someone would want their 22 AR set up just like their 5.56 for cross training. I actually have done this and the 22 AR is a great training aid. You just have to decide how bad you want something and is it worth the cost to build it. |
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I can see why someone would want their 22 AR set up just like their 5.56 for cross training. I actually have done this and the 22 AR is a great training aid. Yes, indeed, this was what started the whole adventure. It's not for me, either. It's so the girls have something to shoot that's light weight, low recoiling and teaches them how to shoot an AR-15. Okay, I'm back on track again. Thanks for reminding me why I got started down this path in the first place. |
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The thing is, even with the low prices you guys are showing, I am still over $500 for a DIY upper ($479 + tax + S&H). You'll save that much on ammo in a heartbeat. Do it right (Perfect For You) the first time no matter the cost. It will come back so fast you'll wonder why the money spent on the upper was of any concern.
Dave S |
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I think the 22 rimfires builds are easier because there is no gas tube and no gas port in the barrel to line up. I bought a CMMG 22 rimfire barrel and collar from Brownell's and used a fixed F marked front site tower. The site tower had threaded holes where the taper pins normally go through the barrel. This sight was very simple to line up and install. I used Loctite on the screws but I've also used a couple of different railed gas blocks on 22's which are easy to install. Probably the cheapest way to get an upper configured exactly the way you want. I had all the parts except the barrel and collar so my M-4 22 upper was a snap to assemble. I want to do this with a A2 upper. How did you align the front sight base to the upper? Did the front sight base you used have sufficient clearance for the screws or was it necessary to notch the barrel? Thanks. |
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Uppers are like cars, motorcycles, and women....you can spend a little, you can spend a lot. Set your budget and you can put together an upper for a fair price. Now, if you start wanting to date a movie starlet you better dig deep and start laying out some green...oh, just like a fancy .22 upper. When you start throwing $250 rails and stuff on them the price tag goes way up! If you are just building a shooter, you can put something together for far less. Do you really need all that junk on your little .22 to go shoot tin cans at the range? Or, are you a competition shooter who really needs that last little edge to push you over the top. You decide what fits your wallet. I thought you were going to say "Buy'm cheap, and stack'm deep"
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| I didn't notch my barrel but I did use Loctite on the barrel and screws. I basically leveled the rifle and flat top upper. I then leveled the front sight. Mine worked and the windage was almost dead on. I haven't had any issues with the front sight coming loose. My front sight I put on is as close as the M4LE that I bought with a pinned front sight and a lot closer than the DPMS AP4 22 I bought back in the mid 90's. |
I had the charging handle, receiver and FF tube laying around. I used CMMG barrel and bolt. If your looking for a tack driver this can do it...with Wolf or S&K ammo. With average ammo it shoots average. Keep in mind you might have to pay for premium ammunition to get tight groups. 
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I didn't notch my barrel but I did use Loctite on the barrel and screws. I basically leveled the rifle and flat top upper. I then leveled the front sight. Mine worked and the windage was almost dead on. I haven't had any issues with the front sight coming loose. My front sight I put on is as close as the M4LE that I bought with a pinned front sight and a lot closer than the DPMS AP4 22 I bought back in the mid 90's. Thanks VASCAR. (Sounds like an old traffic guy} |
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I didn't notch my barrel but I did use Loctite on the barrel and screws. I basically leveled the rifle and flat top upper. I then leveled the front sight. Mine worked and the windage was almost dead on. I haven't had any issues with the front sight coming loose. My front sight I put on is as close as the M4LE that I bought with a pinned front sight and a lot closer than the DPMS AP4 22 I bought back in the mid 90's. Thanks VASCAR. (Sounds like an old traffic guy} Yep, most of career was in uniform, semi retired now. I only occassionally work for some of the small PD's and SO's when they need someone to fill a shift. |
| I am building an AR-22 using a barrel and bolt from Centerfire and a RRA receiver and lower parts kit, free float handguard from Model 1 Sales, a A3 upper receiver from CDNN (it is a DSA and not available now, but DSA has it on sale for $60), an A1 stock I had. It is going to be about $500 when I am all done. Took it out to test functioning and it did well for a first time out using Remington bulk ammo, I am happy with it so far, may build another with pink furniture for my daughter. |
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I didn't notch my barrel but I did use Loctite on the barrel and screws. I basically leveled the rifle and flat top upper. I then leveled the front sight. Mine worked and the windage was almost dead on. I haven't had any issues with the front sight coming loose. My front sight I put on is as close as the M4LE that I bought with a pinned front sight and a lot closer than the DPMS AP4 22 I bought back in the mid 90's. Funny - my machinist friend who crowned my Spike's new but old stock barrel bought on the EE suggested Loctite too. Said notching is okay but Loctite would do as well or better. This machinist is amazing - after making .22s out of every military bolt gun imaginable - from 03s to Vetterlis to Arisakas - he's made three M1A/M14 .22s. Until he fires it you can't tell it's a .22 - even mag is original GI shell with a heavily modified Ciener steel mag inside. More than one shooters' done a double take when they see the rifle cycle and a .22LR empty ejects. Even locks back on the last shot! He's converted a couple M1 Garands too - uses a modified Ruger pistol mag.
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The thing is, even with the low prices you guys are showing, I am still over $500 for a DIY upper ($479 + tax + S&H). You do not need a "new" upper for this build. Look for a used upper on the EE. That could save you $75 easily. And remember, you chose a high-end barrel for the build; if you want to save money, go with a less expensive barrel. I'm looking at a 16" M4 profile barrel for my own dedicated upper build. |
| This is an excellent thread. Thanks for all the links too. I have a CMMG upper and want to build a pistol. A 4.75" bbl fro Beyer is inbound along with a BCM blemish upper. I need to figure out a hand guard. All or my guns use a front sight post but that will probably not work here. I think I might just skip iorns and add a RDS then I can go with a smooth tube and save some money. |
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This is an excellent thread. Thanks for all the links too. I have a CMMG upper and want to build a pistol. A 4.75" bbl fro Beyer is inbound along with a BCM blemish upper. I need to figure out a hand guard. All or my guns use a front sight post but that will probably not work here. I think I might just skip iorns and add a RDS then I can go with a smooth tube and save some money. I was thinking of using the RRA rifle-length free-float handguard. It looks long enough to extend beyong the cut. It's not too expensive, either. That might work for you, too. They sell a pistol length tube. I'm thinking of using the M4/carbine-style barrel and hiding the grenade launcher cut in the barrel. I just wish I had the dimensions (length and diameter). I scaled them using the photograph. |
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This is an excellent thread. Thanks for all the links too. I have a CMMG upper and want to build a pistol. A 4.75" bbl fro Beyer is inbound along with a BCM blemish upper. I need to figure out a hand guard. All or my guns use a front sight post but that will probably not work here. I think I might just skip iorns and add a RDS then I can go with a smooth tube and save some money. I was thinking of using the RRA rifle-length free-float handguard. It looks long enough to extend beyong the cut. It's not too expensive, either. That might work for you, too. They sell a pistol length tube. I'm thinking of using the M4/carbine-style barrel and hiding the grenade launcher cut in the barrel. I just wish I had the dimensions (length and diameter). I scaled them using the photograph. I just got my CMMG upper back fro Adco and had it cut to about 12" I need to measure it. It fits my role as a dedicated trainer for my SBR. I think you're right on the RRA tube. I looker at the Young and Samson rails too. If I get the rails I can slap iron sights on from my parts drawer. So I might jump on the Young pistol length rail. http://www.youngmanufacturing.net/store.php?pg1-cid35.html Any of you using one? |
Well the package fairy showed up today. A BCM bkem upper, I can not find a scratch and a Beyer 4.75" bbls. I ordered a Samson Evolution. 7" rail today. I Need to find a bbl nut l. The Samson rail uses the state dare nut with altheir adapter. I have Troy folding sights that will go on this upper.
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Does anyone sell a 22LR rimfire barrel similar to this one that fits a conventional upper receiver? I'd prefer it without the threaded end but either way is fine. Either chrome-moly or stainless, it does not matter to me. I just noticed the Beyer Barrels are 7075 aluminum. Are they sleeved? It explains why the 0.92" diameter barrel is called "ultralight weight" but how do they hold up under repeated use of a cleaning rod? |
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Yes Beyer Barrels are sleeved. Never over clean a 22. Any 22. Clint makes very accurate barrels....VERY.
Beyer barrels come with an end cap that's the same OD as the barrel. It covers the threads. But I'm sure he could make one unthreaded for you. http://www.beyerbarrels.com/barrels/ar15_barrels Dave S. |
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CMMG 5.56 midlength upper
Spike's barrel .22LR midlength upper (note the barrel exposed is shorter on the .22LR as the .22 breech face is further back compare to the 5.56.) Lower with Magpul stuff and Timney 4lb. Both uppers with Eotechs, Larue mounts and Larue BUIS. The .22LR is my latest build - bought the barrel on the EE - NOS. 
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Just finishing up my first DIY 22 dedicated upper for plinking.
Daniel Defense Upper CMMG 16" Wasp 1:16 barrel CMMG Alpha Conversion Bolt CMMG Anti-Jam CH Free Float Tube (rifle length w/ DIY vent holes, repainted) Magpul Moe Rail for future bipod, accessories (DIY dremeled to fit tube curvature) Sling Hook Mount w/ paracord (leftover in parts bin to accept MS2 sling...works for now) Bushnell 3-9x40 w/ 1.5"H rings |
So I am kinda excited, all of my parts arrived today but it's not all working. I tried to thread my OutbackII onto the bbl, and it would not go. I tried an old A1 FH at the gun shop I was at and that would not go either, it was an old duck bill FH so I could not put a wrench to it. both thread on a little but don't go all the way. I checked my taps and dies and I don't have one big enough, I think there may just be some extra material on the threads from the paint job. Also I think I need a barrel collar. unless I can take the chamber adapter apart so I can remove shell looking chamber part. Is that an option? I will try to get a few photos. The Samson Evolution rail was super easy to install and looks like it will work great for this set up.
The can is only threaded in one turn, it would not go on any further. |
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