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Posted: 11/15/2010 3:04:14 PM EDT
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I think it would be fun to assemble a dedicated 22lr upper and could use a little guidance.
To do this build all I need to round up is an upper receiver, a bolt and charging handle, a barrel, barrel nut, delta ring assembly, some sort of hand guard, a hand guard cap and a clamp-on front sight, correct? From surfing this sub-forum I've decided that I will be ordering a stainless steel CMMG bolt but because of my reading I'm not clear about what is the function of the oft mentioned collar. When I order my bolt do I need to specify a particular collar or does the correct one come with the bolt? As far as the barrel is concerned, what are my options and what is the best twist? How is headspace established? Is there anything else I should know before I start shopping for the necessary parts? Sorry for the noob questions. I've assembled half a dozen AR's but 22lr is uncharted territory for me. Any insight you can share would be much appreciated. |
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The parts list you have is correct, but it may be better and cheaper to buy a CMMG dedicated upper for around $350-$370. You know it will work, it's significantly cheaper than most other uppers and CMMG is leading the way with their Evolution products when it comes to advancements, cost, quality and customer service. (The other top manufacturers shouldn't be ignored, this is just my opinion on the current state of the .22 market).
The collar you asked about is for a dedicated .22 barrel. The chamber end of a dedicated .22 barrel is quite different than a regular AR barrel, so the collar meets the chamber and adds the feedramp. Some collars are interchangeable with other manufacturers bolts (like a Spikes collar on a Ceiner bolt). Some are not, so you have to make sure the barrel, collar and bolt you chose will work together. Of course the safest way is buy all the same manufacturer. When using a .22 conversion bolt in a .223/5.56 upper the collar on the bolt is replaced with a chamber adapter that fills the .223/5.56 chamber. Basically, a dedicated barrel uses the collar and a conversion uses the chamber adapter. Changing between a collar and an adapter is a simple, no tools, quick swap. Most .22 dedicated barrels are in the area of 1/16 vs. 1/7, 1/9 and older 1/12 regular barrels. That should give you a basic answer for most of your questions. Good luck with whatever you chose. |
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Quoted:
I think it would be fun to assemble a dedicated 22lr upper and could use a little guidance. To do this build all I need to round up is an upper receiver, a bolt and charging handle, a barrel, barrel nut, delta ring assembly, some sort of hand guard, a hand guard cap and a clamp-on front sight, correct? If you decide to use something like an M.I. 2 piece free float hand guard, all you need is the barrel nut. You can put a rail mounted sight on(just an option for you)From surfing this sub-forum I've decided that I will be ordering a stainless steel CMMG bolt but because of my reading I'm not clear about what is the function of the oft mentioned collar. When I order my bolt do I need to specify a particular collar or does the correct one come with the bolt? As far as the barrel is concerned, what are my options and what is the best twist? How is headspace established? You can buy a barrel/collar combo from CMMG with the correct 1/16 twist. If using a conversion(no collar, chamber adapter instead) 1/12 barrel is best No head spacing requiredIs there anything else I should know before I start shopping for the necessary parts? Sorry for the noob questions. I've assembled half a dozen AR's but 22lr is uncharted territory for me. Any insight you can share would be much appreciated. If you want to build your own, shop the EE for a used upper receiver and charging handle. I would get a new barrel and collar from CMMG. I'm sure if you go that route, you can get the barrel and bolt as a combo. Get the stainless. It's worth the extra. http://cmmginc.secure-mall.com/item/Dedicated-.22-Barrel-and-Stainless-Steel-Bolt-Assembly-1523 If you want to use the conversions in other rifles, you can always buy the chamber adapter by itself and switch it with the collar. |
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Poco: I read what you wrote and see that you've built a number of AR's so
you're all set for tools. There are a number of manufacturers making 22 barrels. I see that you've decided to go with a stainless steel bolt from CMMG. You'll want a dedicated collar from them too if you are going to use their barrel. Doing a dedicated 22. you can also get the barrel from them so you can make up just a single order. I know what shipping multiple items can do when you live in AK. CMMG offers several different barrels. Here's where your preferance comes in. 16", 20" or choose your own length. 1:16" Twist will be pretty much a given for a 22 barrel unless you want one made for a specific heavier bullet weight. I wouldn't deviate from the 1:16". If you want additional accuracy, you can order a high quality barrel through CMMG also, My understanding is that they now offer barrels by Clint Beyer. His barrels are extremely accurate but will be at an additional cost and may take some extra time to ship. Good Luck, Spec |
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Wow! Thanks for all the information fellers! The more I think about this build the more excited I get.
Pity my poor credit card as I am once again off on another quest! Hopefully, in the not too distant future, I'll have some pics to post. Thanks again, everyone. |
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You'll have to do minor mods to your action vise.
The insert for the Brownell's clamshell needs a 1/2" hole in the front end to accommodate the barrel extension of the .22 barrel. A little milling of the DPMS action block is needed if that's the one you use. As Shadowcop noted, except for the barrel and collar, it's exactly like a centerfire upper. Oh, yeah; you're doomed. |
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Better make plans for another or bigger safe. Once bitten by the AR-22's
one will never be enough. The 22's out number my .223 / 5.56mm's so bad I've now got 3 safes.. Shooting 22's has saved me so much money, over 100,000 rounds in 3 years that it's paid for every firearm I own. Actually it's paid for my Wife's Tahoe and my Yamaha VMax and almost the Harley too. Looking at it in another way.  
Welcome to a whole new shooting world. Spec PS: You may want to hunt down the Black Dog Machine Fascility there in Southern AK. You may be able to buy ammo and some other accessories through them more reasonably.. |
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Quoted:
I think it would be fun to assemble a dedicated 22lr upper and could use a little guidance. Sorry for the noob questions. I've assembled half a dozen AR's but 22lr is uncharted territory for me. Any insight you can share would be much appreciated. Poco i just did this build last week. granted i had an upper receiver, complete delta ring, front sight base so all i needed was the cmmg .22lr conversion and a cmmg barrel. i got my stainless conversion unit with one cmmg magazine from CDNN for 149.00 then add another 20.00 for another mag. plus being in texas i had tax and shipping that added another 23.00 i got the barrel from midway usa, a cmmg with the collar for 99.00 i had a little credit there so basically shipping was free. so for $291.00 i was good to go. i will probably get there new anti jam charging handle next time i order from midway so tack on another 25.00 for a total of $316.00 i too was confused by looking at pics with the barrel collar and the bolt but once i had it in hand i saw you take off the bullet guide on the bolt assembly and snap in its place the barrel collar. i have been meaning to start a post in the cmmg industry thread about how pleased i was with the set up. i shot remington bulk and federal bulk and had only one jam and it was my fault becuase i had the gun with the magazine in resting on the shooting bench. i guess it put too much upward pressure. after that it was a blast. i shot over 750 rounds without cleaning and that only one misfire....again it was my fault. since you dont have the upper, delta ring and the front sight base it seems logical to just buy a complete upper. my gun will be a dedicated .22lr gun so i took out the buffer spring and buffer and run an empty buffer tube...it saves some wieght. good luck and enjoy Tommy |
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You can also buy a used front sight off the ee instead of a gas block. I have done that then drilled through and tapped the bottom of the bayo lug area for a set screw. Mine is on there tight with just one set screw in that area. I thought it would be able to be knocked loose but it is surprisingly tight on there. So if you want a regular fsb you can go that route. |
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