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Rare Breed Two Stage AR-15 Trigger (Page 2 of 3)
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Originally Posted By dredeagle: This is the definition of forced reset. If the reset does not "bump" your finger (via the trigger) forward, you are operating a machine gun. This is key to demonstrating a trigger pull for every round fired. I know it would bump your finger forward in FRT mode but it isn't a legal requirement that it also bumped your finger in standard semi mode. It's just how these cassette based FRTs mechanically operate. Since the two stage seems to have a different trigger pull in semi and FRT, I was hoping that maybe it would function differently in semi mode. Oh well. At least I won't need to modify my Colt lower to use this. |
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Originally Posted By Heineken: I also forgot to mention, it's easier to close the upper with these....you don't have to drop the hammer and push the trigger locking bar forward and hold the trigger, or pull the charging handle slightly, etc. (there are a few ways to do it)..but with these new 2 stages, the trigger locking bar does NOT have a spring, so it's easy to make sure it's not it the way of the carrier when you drop on the upper...if it is in the way, simply move it forward a little out of the way, no spring pushes it back in the way. Hope that makes sense... Question about the DMW selector rotating, up untill this point, it stays on FRT: https://i.ibb.co/67FzLV07/PXL-20260325-152639002.jpg everything past that is SAFE all the way to SAFE. Luckily the colt lower this is going in does have the stops, so it's not a big deal, but in a lower without stops, it would bother me and I would prob use the selector that comes with it vs the aftermarket Question about highest point of hammer when 3rd position and trigger held back...if you mean with the hammer reset I am getting 10mm. Measurement does not if trigger is held back or not. If you mean highest point with hammer dropped, I am getting 22.40mm, again I don't see it change at all regardless of if trigger held down or not. I was curious so I pulled out my regular single stage rare breed, and the hammer does indeed change heights on 3rd position when it is set and trigger is held back vs not; but the new design it does not do this. I just realized I misstated my question leaving out a fairly important detail... If at any point you can take one or two more measurements I'd be super grateful. The specific measurement I meant to ask for was basically the measurement to the highest point of the hammer above the lower receiver w/ the hammer bottomed out. In other words, with the new 2 stage trigger in position 3 and hammer depressed as far down as it goes (the part I accidentally left out previously) with your thumb or something (ideally w/ and w/o trigger being pulled), how tall does the highest point of the hammer then stick up above the top of the lower? This trigger looks mighty intriguing. Below is a decent reference picture I used previously. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Heineken: Shit man I'm about to just send it to you, you take your own measurements 🤣🤣 I kid....I'm out of the loop for a few days, but when I get a chance I'll check! I 100% deserved that  What I really need to do is just stop coming to this subforum period because this whole situation is the reason I have to weigh my 22 LR casings to keep track of the expenditures each week  After all, first world problems are, in fact... still problems.ETA: Also, another question since these things are pretty brand new to the market. For the new RB 2 stage trigger, am I correct to assume the forced reset of the trigger is caused by the hammer being depressed by the BCG (like the 15-L3) and not by the BCG interfacing w/ the locking bar on the way rearward? I realize the locking bar interface w/ the sear trip on the BCG is what releases the hammer when it returns to battery, but I'm specifically wanting to confirm this new one still operates by the same general mechanism as the 15-L3 (as opposed to SS/ARC type devices which depend on the BCG interfacing w/ the lever, not the hammer, to force the reset). Hopefully that makes sense, but I'm rambling and it's late. |
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Originally Posted By TLIBurn: I know it would bump your finger forward in FRT mode but it isn't a legal requirement that it also bumped your finger in standard semi mode. It's just how these cassette based FRTs mechanically operate. No. I completely missed the fact thqt he was describing behaviors in Semi. So, my assertion was misplaced in the context. I will edit that post. |
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Originally Posted By fordkicksass: ETA: Also, another question since these things are pretty brand new to the market. For the new RB 2 stage trigger, am I correct to assume the forced reset of the trigger is caused by the hammer being depressed by the BCG (like the 15-L3) and not by the BCG interfacing w/ the locking bar on the way rearward? I realize the locking bar interface w/ the sear trip on the BCG is what releases the hammer when it returns to battery, but I'm specifically wanting to confirm this new one still operates by the same general mechanism as the 15-L3 (as opposed to SS/ARC type devices which depend on the BCG interfacing w/ the lever, not the hammer, to force the reset). Hopefully that makes sense, but I'm rambling and it's late. Yes correct, the reset is caused by hammer being depressed, not the locking bar. |
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Originally Posted By fordkicksass: I just realized I misstated my question leaving out a fairly important detail... If at any point you can take one or two more measurements I'd be super grateful. The specific measurement I meant to ask for was basically the measurement to the highest point of the hammer above the lower receiver w/ the hammer bottomed out. In other words, with the new 2 stage trigger in position 3 and hammer depressed as far down as it goes (the part I accidentally left out previously) with your thumb or something (ideally w/ and w/o trigger being pulled), how tall does the highest point of the hammer then stick up above the top of the lower? This trigger looks mighty intriguing. Below is a decent reference picture I used previously. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163138/1000003950_jpg-3658571_JPG-3736133.JPG Rechecked as per instructions, measurement is 5.25mm. Here is some 733 love. One is real deal, one is FRT with correct safety and pins.  
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Originally Posted By Heineken: Rechecked as per instructions, measurement is 5.25mm. Here is some 733 love. One is real deal, one is FRT with correct safety and pins. https://i.ibb.co/Ld5s5GJH/PXL-20260327-184744266.jpg https://i.ibb.co/JR12FMhH/PXL-20260327-191336565.jpg Originally Posted By Heineken: Originally Posted By fordkicksass: I just realized I misstated my question leaving out a fairly important detail... If at any point you can take one or two more measurements I'd be super grateful. The specific measurement I meant to ask for was basically the measurement to the highest point of the hammer above the lower receiver w/ the hammer bottomed out. In other words, with the new 2 stage trigger in position 3 and hammer depressed as far down as it goes (the part I accidentally left out previously) with your thumb or something (ideally w/ and w/o trigger being pulled), how tall does the highest point of the hammer then stick up above the top of the lower? This trigger looks mighty intriguing. Below is a decent reference picture I used previously. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/163138/1000003950_jpg-3658571_JPG-3736133.JPG Rechecked as per instructions, measurement is 5.25mm. Here is some 733 love. One is real deal, one is FRT with correct safety and pins. https://i.ibb.co/Ld5s5GJH/PXL-20260327-184744266.jpg https://i.ibb.co/JR12FMhH/PXL-20260327-191336565.jpg Those captive pins are so fucking sexy. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Those captive pins are so fucking sexy. Thanks. I'm a sucker for details, so Datum Machine Works is my absolute hero right now. Super easy install, just pushed in, and the old ones pop out of the cassette. |
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Originally Posted By Heineken: Thanks. I'm a sucker for details, so Datum Machine Works is my absolute hero right now. Super easy install, just pushed in, and the old ones pop out of the cassette. Did you get the spring pins or replacement sleeves to use regular pins? I’m planning out my Colt FRT build right now. 
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Originally Posted By crosseyeshooter: Did you get the spring pins or replacement sleeves to use regular pins? I’m planning out my Colt FRT build right now. The sleeves. I actually got both kinds he sells just in case the sleeves didn't work or I didn't like them, but they work, and I like them. They just push in and the old sleeve pushes out. Took 10 seconds and no tools. |
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Originally Posted By Heineken: Rechecked as per instructions, measurement is 5.25mm. Here is some 733 love. One is real deal, one is FRT with correct safety and pins. https://i.ibb.co/Ld5s5GJH/PXL-20260327-184744266.jpg https://i.ibb.co/JR12FMhH/PXL-20260327-191336565.jpg You're a gentleman and a scholar, thank you! |
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Originally Posted By fordkicksass: You're a gentleman and a scholar, thank you! Originally Posted By fordkicksass: Originally Posted By Heineken: Rechecked as per instructions, measurement is 5.25mm. Here is some 733 love. One is real deal, one is FRT with correct safety and pins. https://i.ibb.co/Ld5s5GJH/PXL-20260327-184744266.jpg https://i.ibb.co/JR12FMhH/PXL-20260327-191336565.jpg You're a gentleman and a scholar, thank you! Remind me what you're trying to get working, which makes that dimension critical? It's been a few months since I saw you posting about it. |
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Originally Posted By Heineken: Yes correct, the reset is caused by hammer being depressed, not the locking bar. Originally Posted By Heineken: Originally Posted By fordkicksass: ETA: Also, another question since these things are pretty brand new to the market. For the new RB 2 stage trigger, am I correct to assume the forced reset of the trigger is caused by the hammer being depressed by the BCG (like the 15L3) and not by the BCG interfacing w/ the locking bar on the way rearward? I realize the locking bar interface w/ the sear trip on the BCG is what releases the hammer when it returns to battery, but I'm specifically wanting to confirm this new one still operates by the same general mechanism as the 15L3 (as opposed to SS/ARC type devices which depend on the BCG interfacing w/ the lever, not the hammer, to force the reset). Hopefully that makes sense, but I'm rambling and it's late. Yes correct, the reset is caused by hammer being depressed, not the locking bar. A couple corrections and points of clarity. The FRT-15C3 is not a hammer reset FRT. Also, it does not have a locking bar. The forward reset is accomplished by the bolt carrier moving rearward and rotating the cam from the vertical (non-displacing) position, to the rotated (displacing) position. The rotation of the cam both forwardly displaces the trigger, and locks the trigger in the forwardly displaced position - with a single component, in a single movement. The trigger remains locked forward until the bolt carrier moves back into battery and the sear trip surface of the bolt carrier contacts the cam and rotates it forward toward the vertical (non-displacing) position, at which time you may pull the trigger again. The hammer has essentially no role in this process other than being the thing that the trigger releases which then fires the gun. |
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Originally Posted By BrianBinFL: A couple corrections and points of clarity. The FRT-15C3 is not a hammer reset FRT. Also, it does not have a locking bar. The forward reset is accomplished by the bolt carrier moving rearward and rotating the cam from the vertical (non-displacing) position, to the rotated (displacing) position. The rotation of the cam both forwardly displaces the trigger, and locks the trigger in the forwardly displaced position - with a single component, in a single movement. The trigger remains locked forward until the bolt carrier moves back into battery and the sear trip surface of the bolt carrier contacts the cam and rotates it forward toward the vertical (non-displacing) position, at which time you may pull the trigger again. The hammer has essentially no role in this process other than being the thing that the trigger releases which then fires the gun. Originally Posted By BrianBinFL: A couple corrections and points of clarity. The FRT-15C3 is not a hammer reset FRT. Also, it does not have a locking bar. The forward reset is accomplished by the bolt carrier moving rearward and rotating the cam from the vertical (non-displacing) position, to the rotated (displacing) position. The rotation of the cam both forwardly displaces the trigger, and locks the trigger in the forwardly displaced position - with a single component, in a single movement. The trigger remains locked forward until the bolt carrier moves back into battery and the sear trip surface of the bolt carrier contacts the cam and rotates it forward toward the vertical (non-displacing) position, at which time you may pull the trigger again. The hammer has essentially no role in this process other than being the thing that the trigger releases which then fires the gun. Oh crap That might be a deal-breaker for my application. Thank you for clarifying!Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Remind me what you're trying to get working, which makes that dimension critical? It's been a few months since I saw you posting about it. This is for my Lakeside Razorback belt-fed 22. I have it running 100% in position 2 (it has ran great for the last 15ish years in semi-auto, so no surprise there) and about 90% in position 3 with the original unmodified FRT15L3. The Razorback's bolt sits lower in the upper receiver than standard BCGs so, when the hammer bottoms out in the cassette, it induces parasitic drag between the hammer and bolt. As the the gun heats up AND gets dirty, the drag between the bolt and the hammer starts to interfere w/ correct function even with very intentional light press of the trigger. The drag is such that any grease or lubrication I add to the relevant components is gone within the first belt. I've documented all the stuff I've done and tried with it over the last year, it has been a metric shit ton of fun (removing material from the hammer, rear takedown pin, etc). This setup is about as much fun as I can imagine a gun being, it's just incredible. It's 90% of the reason I have to weigh out my expended rimfire casings to keep track of how much I'm going through. On a related note, the inside of my Optimus Micro probably constitutes an ecological disaster at this point When I saw the design of the ARC, I thought I had found the perfect solution... until I discovered the Razorback's bolt body does not travel far enough rearward to induce trigger reset via the lever. That turned out to be a happy accident, though, since I subsequently discovered how amazing the ARC/SSAE combination is. No ragrets. |
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Originally Posted By fordkicksass: Oh crap That might be a deal-breaker for my application. Thank you for clarifying!This is for my Lakeside Razorback belt-fed 22. I have it running 100% in position 2 (it has ran great for the last 15ish years in semi-auto, so no surprise there) and about 90% in position 3 with the original unmodified FRT15L3. The Razorback's bolt sits lower in the upper receiver than standard BCGs so, when the hammer bottoms out in the cassette, it induces parasitic drag between the hammer and bolt. As the the gun heats up AND gets dirty, the drag between the bolt and the hammer starts to interfere w/ correct function even with very intentional light press of the trigger. The drag is such that any grease or lubrication I add to the relevant components is gone within the first belt. I've documented all the stuff I've done and tried with it over the last year, it has been a metric shit ton of fun (removing material from the hammer, rear takedown pin, etc). This setup is about as much fun as I can imagine a gun being, it's just incredible. It's 90% of the reason I have to weigh out my expended rimfire casings to keep track of how much I'm going through. On a related note, the inside of my Optimus Micro probably constitutes an ecological disaster at this point When I saw the design of the ARC, I thought I had found the perfect solution... until I discovered the Razorback's bolt body does not travel far enough rearward to induce trigger reset via the lever. That turned out to be a happy accident, though, since I subsequently discovered how amazing the ARC/SSAE combination is. No ragrets. Originally Posted By fordkicksass: Originally Posted By BrianBinFL: A couple corrections and points of clarity. The FRT-15C3 is not a hammer reset FRT. Also, it does not have a locking bar. The forward reset is accomplished by the bolt carrier moving rearward and rotating the cam from the vertical (non-displacing) position, to the rotated (displacing) position. The rotation of the cam both forwardly displaces the trigger, and locks the trigger in the forwardly displaced position - with a single component, in a single movement. The trigger remains locked forward until the bolt carrier moves back into battery and the sear trip surface of the bolt carrier contacts the cam and rotates it forward toward the vertical (non-displacing) position, at which time you may pull the trigger again. The hammer has essentially no role in this process other than being the thing that the trigger releases which then fires the gun. Oh crap That might be a deal-breaker for my application. Thank you for clarifying!Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Remind me what you're trying to get working, which makes that dimension critical? It's been a few months since I saw you posting about it. This is for my Lakeside Razorback belt-fed 22. I have it running 100% in position 2 (it has ran great for the last 15ish years in semi-auto, so no surprise there) and about 90% in position 3 with the original unmodified FRT15L3. The Razorback's bolt sits lower in the upper receiver than standard BCGs so, when the hammer bottoms out in the cassette, it induces parasitic drag between the hammer and bolt. As the the gun heats up AND gets dirty, the drag between the bolt and the hammer starts to interfere w/ correct function even with very intentional light press of the trigger. The drag is such that any grease or lubrication I add to the relevant components is gone within the first belt. I've documented all the stuff I've done and tried with it over the last year, it has been a metric shit ton of fun (removing material from the hammer, rear takedown pin, etc). This setup is about as much fun as I can imagine a gun being, it's just incredible. It's 90% of the reason I have to weigh out my expended rimfire casings to keep track of how much I'm going through. On a related note, the inside of my Optimus Micro probably constitutes an ecological disaster at this point When I saw the design of the ARC, I thought I had found the perfect solution... until I discovered the Razorback's bolt body does not travel far enough rearward to induce trigger reset via the lever. That turned out to be a happy accident, though, since I subsequently discovered how amazing the ARC/SSAE combination is. No ragrets. Cool stuff. Thanks for pushing the boundaries, like me!
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Originally Posted By BrianBinFL: A couple corrections and points of clarity. The FRT-15C3 is not a hammer reset FRT. Also, it does not have a locking bar. The forward reset is accomplished by the bolt carrier moving rearward and rotating the cam from the vertical (non-displacing) position, to the rotated (displacing) position. The rotation of the cam both forwardly displaces the trigger, and locks the trigger in the forwardly displaced position - with a single component, in a single movement. The trigger remains locked forward until the bolt carrier moves back into battery and the sear trip surface of the bolt carrier contacts the cam and rotates it forward toward the vertical (non-displacing) position, at which time you may pull the trigger again. The hammer has essentially no role in this process other than being the thing that the trigger releases which then fires the gun. Well ooof. I thought the hammer was pushing trigger forward, but after reading this and then messing with it again, I was wrong. When I was resetting the hammer testing this initially, I wasn't paying attention to the cam, and I was inadvertently pushing the cam twords the end of resetting the hammer, and honest to goodness it felt like it was the hammer doing the reset. But it is not the hammer, it is indeed the cam. I stand corrected, my bad everyone :/ |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: My 2 stage trigger arrived today. The trigger pull is really, REALLY good. It's on par with an MBT2s, and possibly in the same realm as a Geissele SSA. Not an SSA-E, it's heavier than that. Looking forward to firing it. Are you putting it in a Colt blocked lower? . |
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Originally Posted By carholio: Are you putting it in a Colt blocked lower? . Originally Posted By carholio: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: My 2 stage trigger arrived today. The trigger pull is really, REALLY good. It's on par with an MBT2s, and possibly in the same realm as a Geissele SSA. Not an SSA-E, it's heavier than that. Looking forward to firing it. Are you putting it in a Colt blocked lower? . I am not, just a PSA. I have never owned a Colt lower, blocked or otherwise. |
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Originally Posted By fordkicksass: This is for my Lakeside Razorback belt-fed 22. I have it running 100% in position 2 (it has ran great for the last 15ish years in semi-auto, so no surprise there) and about 90% in position 3 with the original unmodified FRT15L3. The Razorback's bolt sits lower in the upper receiver than standard BCGs so, when the hammer bottoms out in the cassette, it induces parasitic drag between the hammer and bolt. As the the gun heats up AND gets dirty, the drag between the bolt and the hammer starts to interfere w/ correct function even with very intentional light press of the trigger. The drag is such that any grease or lubrication I add to the relevant components is gone within the first belt. I've documented all the stuff I've done and tried with it over the last year, it has been a metric shit ton of fun (removing material from the hammer, rear takedown pin, etc). This setup is about as much fun as I can imagine a gun being, it's just incredible. It's 90% of the reason I have to weigh out my expended rimfire casings to keep track of how much I'm going through. On a related note, the inside of my Optimus Micro probably constitutes an ecological disaster at this point When I saw the design of the ARC, I thought I had found the perfect solution... until I discovered the Razorback's bolt body does not travel far enough rearward to induce trigger reset via the lever. That turned out to be a happy accident, though, since I subsequently discovered how amazing the ARC/SSAE combination is. No ragrets. Thanks for the good info I can use for my own LM7s (precursors to your Razorback) |
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Originally Posted By hrt4me: Thanks for the good info I can use for my own LM7s (precursors to your Razorback) Originally Posted By hrt4me: Thanks for the good info I can use for my own LM7s (precursors to your Razorback) Happy to help. It has been over sixteen years since I sold my LM7 but they are so similar that most, if not all, of the same stuff would apply. Only caveat I could think of would be the delrin portions of the original LM7 bolt might wear faster than the aluminum of the Razorback bolt. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: My 2 stage trigger arrived today. The trigger pull is really, REALLY good. It's on par with an MBT2s, and possibly in the same realm as a Geissele SSA. Not an SSA-E, it's heavier than that. Looking forward to firing it. I'm very much looking forward to your and Heineken's thoughts on how it does in actual use. The ARC/SSAE/mil-ish selector setup is just so fricken slick and perfect it will be hard to top it. That said, I'm all for variety |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: My 2 stage trigger arrived today. The trigger pull is really, REALLY good. It's on par with an MBT2s, and possibly in the same realm as a Geissele SSA. Not an SSA-E, it's heavier than that. Looking forward to firing it. Looking forward to the results. I've been eyeballing it for a couple weeks now |
Stolen Firearm: Colt AR15, Serial # SP342380, 16" carbine. Stolen in California by Kevin Ayres, and taken to Missouri.
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: My 2 stage trigger arrived today. The trigger pull is really, REALLY good. It's on par with an MBT2s, and possibly in the same realm as a Geissele SSA. Not an SSA-E, it's heavier than that. Looking forward to firing it. I think the MBT2S comparison is pretty spot on. I pulled the Delta/RB 3 Pos that was in my rifle and switched to the RB Two Stage. Love or hate RB, this trigger gives you the best of both worlds. In semi auto, second stage broke between 3.2 and 3.5 lbs using my Amazon $20 trigger pull gauge, so take that for what its worth. In third position...well its third position...it just runs. |
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Originally Posted By Heineken: https://i.ibb.co/qMM49xDX/PXL-20260323-183906768.jpg With this and the modified safety and the pins DMW sells, now I can look correct and FRT Thanks for posting, I bought one to put in a Colt lower after seeing this post. I tried it out today and everything worked well. |
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Originally Posted By OldGunner38: Looks good! How do you like the Surefire suppressor? Been thinking of getting one. It is my very favorite 5.56 silencer. The RC and RC2 series are probably the most combat proven silencers in the world. It is quiet enough, has reasonable gas blowback, is unbelievably durable, has a QD mechanism without exposed threads, has very low flash signature, and is one of the least susceptible silencers on the market to glowing under night vision. Also it has one of the smallest zero shifts available. |
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Originally Posted By HKH: But what did it feeeeelllll like man? You holding back on us How close to a G$ SSA is it on a scale from 1-10 Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: 60 rounds, perfect function. But what did it feeeeelllll like man? You holding back on us How close to a G$ SSA is it on a scale from 1-10 9/10. There's just the tiniest bit of drag in the first stage, and it's a slightly heavier pull in the third position than in semi auto. It's a really, really good trigger pull. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: 9/10. There's just the tiniest bit of drag in the first stage, and it's a slightly heavier pull in the third position than in semi auto. It's a really, really good trigger pull. Nice "easy button" trigger if you don't give a shit about the RBT lawfare stuff. I might end up with one yet. |
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Originally Posted By georgeib: Nice "easy button" trigger if you don't give a shit about the RBT lawfare stuff. I might end up with one yet. Originally Posted By georgeib: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: 9/10. There's just the tiniest bit of drag in the first stage, and it's a slightly heavier pull in the third position than in semi auto. It's a really, really good trigger pull. Nice "easy button" trigger if you don't give a shit about the RBT lawfare stuff. I might end up with one yet. Yep. It's a great option for people who just want to buy a trigger, make sure they have an H3 and M16 carrier, and go. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Can someone who has the Rare Breed FRT-15C3 two-stage trigger confirm definitely whether the trigger is forced forward in the traditional SEMI position? If so, is it as noticeable as with the original FRT-15L3 single-stage trigger? Yes, it bumps your finger in almost exactly the same way. |
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OK, so there's good and there's bad: The GOOD: the FRT-15C3 drops right into my sear-blocked ban-era 6920. I finally have an FRT option, although I had to replace the original 6920 bolt carrier, as it lacked the "M16 rear." Cycles without issue. The BAD: my ban-era 6920 is a large (.170) diameter hammer/trigger pin model, and the bushings in the cassette will not allow the larger pins to pass. The standard diameter pins, including the anti-walk version, still allow some "slop" in the cassette fit. I'll drop a note to RB to see if they sell bushings with a larger inner diameter, but absent that, any ideas? I don't relish the idea of taking the existing bushings to the drill press, but that's about my only thought at this point. |
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Originally Posted By ScottS: OK, so there's good and there's bad: The GOOD: the FRT-15C3 drops right into my sear-blocked ban-era 6920. I finally have an FRT option, although I had to replace the original 6920 bolt carrier, as it lacked the "M16 rear." Cycles without issue. The BAD: my ban-era 6920 is a large (.170) diameter hammer/trigger pin model, and the bushings in the cassette will not allow the larger pins to pass. The standard diameter pins, including the anti-walk version, still allow some "slop" in the cassette fit. I'll drop a note to RB to see if they sell bushings with a larger inner diameter, but absent that, any ideas? I don't relish the idea of taking the existing bushings to the drill press, but that's about my only thought at this point. I wonder if @Gorton87 would consider making some 0.170 ID bushings, now that the 2 stage Rare Breed has come out and fits blocked Colt lowers. |
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Originally Posted By Gorton87: Wouldn't be a problem. Just message me. Originally Posted By Gorton87: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I wonder if @Gorton87 would consider making some 0.170 ID bushings, now that the 2 stage Rare Breed has come out and fits blocked Colt lowers. Wouldn't be a problem. Just message me. @ScottS 
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Originally Posted By ScottS: OK, so there's good and there's bad: The GOOD: the FRT-15C3 drops right into my sear-blocked ban-era 6920. I finally have an FRT option, although I had to replace the original 6920 bolt carrier, as it lacked the "M16 rear." Cycles without issue. The BAD: my ban-era 6920 is a large (.170) diameter hammer/trigger pin model, and the bushings in the cassette will not allow the larger pins to pass. The standard diameter pins, including the anti-walk version, still allow some "slop" in the cassette fit. I'll drop a note to RB to see if they sell bushings with a larger inner diameter, but absent that, any ideas? I don't relish the idea of taking the existing bushings to the drill press, but that's about my only thought at this point. Just use a drill press to drill the existing bushing hole bigger. Seems pretty straightforward to me. |
I am not an operator nor am I very smart.
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Keep that in mind when reading my comments:-)
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Originally Posted By carholio: Just use a drill press to drill the existing bushing hole bigger. Seems pretty straightforward to me. Gorton87 is hooking me up. |
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Originally Posted By ScottS: I don't disagree. Pretty straightforward...if I had a drill press, which I don't. And if I had a press vice to hold the bushing while it's being drilled, which I don't. Gorton87 is hooking me up. Sorry, I always assume ar15 / frt owners are tinkerers and have a decent shop to play in. Glad you're being taken care of. I'm getting 1 of these soon for my blocked 6920. One could argue that I could just mill out the block but I want to keep it for nostalgia. Remembering an era when Colt hated us but we were still able to get them. I love that mine is stamped restricted for law enforcement only. . |
I am not an operator nor am I very smart.
Keep that in mind when reading my comments:-)
Keep that in mind when reading my comments:-)
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Originally Posted By carholio: Sorry, I always assume ar15 / frt owners are tinkerers and have a decent shop to play in. Glad you're being taken care of. I'm getting 1 of these soon for my blocked 6920. One could argue that I could just mill out the block but I want to keep it for nostalgia. Remembering an era when Colt hated us but we were still able to get them. I love that mine is stamped restricted for law enforcement only. . I gave serious thought to locking the little bushings in the vice and having at them with the drill, but fortunately sane minds prevailed. |
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I'm way out of the loop with everything related to FRTs. My nephew bought a CMMG lower and wants an FRT for his build. Being a good uncle I told him I had him covered he will be getting a nice graduation present. It sounds like there may be fitment or timing issues in specific scenarios if I'm getting the sense of some of the posts here correct. Is there anything I should be concerned with on the CMMG lower and dropping in in any of the Rare Breed FRTs? I'm not sure why he chose that brand and I have no experience with it. I just don't want to give it to only to find out there is a shelf, block, thick wall or something that prevents it from going in. If the FRT-15C3 works of cams and the bolt hitting it, does that create any timing issues or additional failure points? |
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Originally Posted By SWIRE: I'm way out of the loop with everything related to FRTs. My nephew bought a CMMG lower and wants an FRT for his build. Being a good uncle I told him I had him covered he will be getting a nice graduation present. It sounds like there may be fitment or timing issues in specific scenarios if I'm getting the sense of some of the posts here correct. Is there anything I should be concerned with on the CMMG lower and dropping in in any of the Rare Breed FRTs? I'm not sure why he chose that brand and I have no experience with it. I just don't want to give it to only to find out there is a shelf, block, thick wall or something that prevents it from going in. If the FRT-15C3 works of cams and the bolt hitting it, does that create any timing issues or additional failure points? He will be very happy with an FRT-15C3. It's an excellent trigger pull. All you will need is an H3 buffer with sliding tungsten weights, and a full auto profile bolt carrier. |
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Originally Posted By georgeib: Anyone have any clue if a 0/45/90 can be made for this? I know there's a company (blanking at the moment) that modifies 3 position selectors to work with various cartridge FRTs. Datum Machine Works. I'm not aware of any M16 selector which is designed for 45/90. Closest we have is the Griffin Armament 60/120, which Gorton87 has happily modified for me. |
Rare Breed Two Stage AR-15 Trigger (Page 2 of 3)
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