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ARC Fire V2 (Page 12 of 13)
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Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: I've got a V1 working with a modified G$ trigger (SSA-E). Any known issues with this trigger not working with a V2? I'd like to get the non-ambi safety. May require more material to be removed, or see the above post from HKH about a potential alternative fix. |
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Originally Posted By jwlaxton: When I experienced what you are describing, I loosened the screw while in position 2, on the side the cam goes in. Pulled down hard on the trigger to push the trigger bar up into the cam slot (better aligning it), then torqued it down while continuing to pull on the trigger. While tightening, I allowed it to flip to position 3. That seemed to make the cam slot line up better with the trigger bar, and make the stiffer trigger pull in position 2 go away. YMMV Installing V2 ambi 45-90 in an Inoculum lower. Using an G$ SSA cut by ARC and their lever blocker. Had the very hard trigger on semi but FRT was fine. And FRT was dry functioning. The above procedure fixed the semi issue. Now both positions feels great. Thanks again @jwlaxton !! ASD needs to put this in their troubleshooting FAQ. Live fire test tomorrow. Folks who have done this, how is it holding up to use? |
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Originally Posted By mPisi: Installing V2 ambi 45-90 in an Inoculum lower. Using an G$ SSA cut by ARC and their lever blocker. Had the very hard trigger on semi but FRT was fine. And FRT was dry functioning. The above procedure fixed the semi issue. Now both positions feels great. Thanks again @jwlaxton !! ASD needs to put this in their troubleshooting FAQ. Live fire test tomorrow. Folks who have done this, how is it holding up to use? This is a good data point! |
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| I encountered something similar to what you guys are describing today. I put a Mid Tier Defense cut Geissele SSA in a 45-90 V2, and it was having the classic hard pull. I swapped it over to a V1, and it works perfectly now. The SSA-E that was previously paired with that V1, works perfectly with the V2. |
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I sent the pictures requested by ASD concerning my V2 to see if they think it needs shims, but I also made a video showing the looseness of the lever. I have no idea how loose it should be. I also mic'd my trigger pocket on my lower. Mil-spec is .690", mine mic'd at .692, so that doesn't seem bad. Anyway, what do you guys think? Is the lever way too loose? Does this look right?  ARCFire v2 |
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Originally Posted By EDL: I sent the pictures requested by ASD concerning my V2 to see if they think it needs shims, but I also made a video showing the looseness of the lever. I have no idea how loose it should be. I also mic'd my trigger pocket on my lower. Mil-spec is .690", mine mic'd at .692, so that doesn't seem bad. Anyway, what do you guys think? Is the lever way too loose? Does this look right?  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQfPq131G-AAll of mine are that loose. |
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Yeah, ASD said the same. They also said the pictures I sent, everything looks good, but it still doesn't work right with the CMMG 9mm upper. I get a few rounds in FRT mode, then it stops. If I then release the trigger and pull it again, it'll go a few more rounds and stop. Also, not every time, but sometimes when I run it through manual cycle test, it'll get a dead trigger, or it locks up the trigger. Going to swap to the 300 Blk upper and see what happens, but I really wanted it to run with the 9mm. I guess I could play with springs too since the arcfire adds some frictional drag to the BCG, that might be part of the issue. |
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Originally Posted By EDL: Yeah, ASD said the same. They also said the pictures I sent, everything looks good, but it still doesn't work right with the CMMG 9mm upper. I get a few rounds in FRT mode, then it stops. If I then release the trigger and pull it again, it'll go a few more rounds and stop. Tell us about your trigger. Reads to me like your trigger shoe may be cut a cunt hair too much thereby marginalizing the active reset. I'm stuck on the fact that releasing the trigger at a stoppage allows a reset so the subsequent pull drops the hammer. |
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Well, after thoroughly looking at how it functions, I'm beginning to wonder if the added drag isn't allowing the BCG to travel far enough back. By manually manipulating the action, I found there is a point where it will strip a round off and chamber it, but not fully actuate the lever to force reset the trigger (it's not going far enough back so the lever engages for reset...it's sort of small "dead zone" if you will). Manually letting off the trigger resets it and then it'll go again. I received another email from ASD a minute ago, they are going to send me the shims, which they said will alter the timing which might allow the lever to engage sooner. However, if the BCG is actually short stroking, that may not really fix things. I'm getting ready to order a bunch of stuff (working with my son to start loading for his Bergara 6.5 PRC) and I need some other bullets, and what not, so I'll add a Tub light spring to the order and see what that does before adding the shims. I'm still going to put the 300 upper on and see how it does in the mean time...since it has an AGB, I suspect I can get it run fine. My 300 upper is over gassed, so I'm sure I can dial it in with the AGB. |
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Combat Armory with code TAKE20 ARC-Fire V2 non-ambi 0-90-180 with Odinworks buffer kit $179 https://www.combatarmory.com/arc-fire-trigger-v2-non-ambi-kit-0-90-180-odin-works-hfrb-the-all-in-one-buffer-tube-system-combo/ |
I would like to remind everyone that disorganized violence is never the answer. - John Carter
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Originally Posted By mPisi: Installing V2 ambi 45-90 in an Inoculum lower. Using an G$ SSA cut by ARC and their lever blocker. Had the very hard trigger on semi but FRT was fine. And FRT was dry functioning. The above procedure fixed the semi issue. Now both positions feels great. Thanks again @jwlaxton !! ASD needs to put this in their troubleshooting FAQ. Live fire test tomorrow. Folks who have done this, how is it holding up to use? Originally Posted By mPisi: Originally Posted By jwlaxton: When I experienced what you are describing, I loosened the screw while in position 2, on the side the cam goes in. Pulled down hard on the trigger to push the trigger bar up into the cam slot (better aligning it), then torqued it down while continuing to pull on the trigger. While tightening, I allowed it to flip to position 3. That seemed to make the cam slot line up better with the trigger bar, and make the stiffer trigger pull in position 2 go away. YMMV Installing V2 ambi 45-90 in an Inoculum lower. Using an G$ SSA cut by ARC and their lever blocker. Had the very hard trigger on semi but FRT was fine. And FRT was dry functioning. The above procedure fixed the semi issue. Now both positions feels great. Thanks again @jwlaxton !! ASD needs to put this in their troubleshooting FAQ. Live fire test tomorrow. Folks who have done this, how is it holding up to use? This solution worked for me as well. Dry fire function is good to go and hope to test fire in near future. V2 0-45-90 with Geissele SDC. Thanks for the tip. |
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So, have a Tubb lightweight spring on order to replace the Warthog currently in my lower for the CMMG RDB upper. I believe short stroking due to the extra drag of the Arcfire is probably the issue with it not functioning right. Something that I didn't think about at first, is that all of my testing so far has been with Aguila 147-grain ammo. I grabbed a few boxes since it was the cheapest 147 grain ammo at my LGS. I have some 147 grain bullets on order for handloading, but just initially wanted something quick for testing. It seems that ammo, from what I can find, is on the lower end of power compared to other 147 grain ammo, so that combined with the heavier Warthog spring and extra drag of the Arcfire makes sense why it is short stroking. Loaded up some 300 Blk subs last night and getting ready to put that upper on and go test...bet it'll run just fine... |
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So, tested the 300 Blk upper. Had to really open the gas up on the AGB. Fully open is 4.5 turns from closed (Superlative Arms AGB). In semi auto, closing it 3 and a half turns then back out 2 clicks it cycles great. In FRT mode, won't cycle. I ended up opening 2 and half turns and tried FRT. Still not reliable, would go 8 to 9 rounds and stop. Opened another half turn and tried again. Went three rounds and stopped, then wouldn't set off a round at all, even in semi-mode. Then, in the brass catcher, I found a case without a neck. One of them blew off. Was one that I had neck turned, so apparently, I cut it too long and into the shoulder (fortunately, I didn't do too many of them, but the ones I did are going into the trash bucket). Nothing in the barrel, no damage to anything, but does look like the firing pin is not poking through the hole far enough (it's not even dimpling a primer). Pin is not broken and man is it absolutely filthy. I have to tear down the BCG and bolt, I bet there's so much gunk in it that the pin can't go forward far enough . Seems the lever is really putting a LOT of drag on the BCG. Sigh. |
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Has anyone used a V2 (or any Arcfire) with one of the Geissele *Brownells* models? I’m using an old “rapid fire” which is quite literally the S3G hammer/trigger/disco but with an external means of capturing the hammer pin. Function is perfect, zero issues w the FRT per se…but my hammer pin keeps trying to walk out on me  . It’s in an ancient Noveske lower with many, many thousands of rounds but I don’t think the receiver holes are out of round, the pins sit with what feels like appropriate tension etc. Niche issue, I know. If push comes to shove I could replace the pins with kns anti walk but I’d love to avoid that. |
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Sounds like you've got a Geissele G2S trigger and you didn't install the Hammer Pin Retaining Clip: Retainer, Hammer Pin |
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Sounds like you've got a Geissele G2S trigger and you didn't install the Hammer Pin Retaining Clip: Retainer, Hammer Pin |
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Originally Posted By Fire4Fxt: Sounds like you've got a Geissele G2S trigger and you didn't install the Hammer Pin Retaining Clip: https://www.mdshooters.com/threads/geissele-hammer-pin-walking-out.255315/ Retainer, Hammer Pin I’ll disassemble and verify but I know the exact retaining clip referenced here and am 99% sure I installed it when I put the frt in. If it’s not installed, easy and logical fix. But I’m at a loss if it’s in there and still walking…I’ll inspect and follow up here. It’s no fault of the arc fire, it’s functioning absolutely perfectly and I’m happy with how robust the trip bar etc appear to be. |
| Forgot another critical item -- some of the Geissele hammer or trigger pins only have one groove and that groove must be on the clip side of the hammer. Insert the non-grooved end of the pin from the right side to the left so it slides in past the clip and then the clip catches the groove when it's fully inserted. YMMV |
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Question for anyone that has had to add the shims to their V2. ASD told me in the email that shims will "change the timing." So question is, does that mean the hammer is released sooner or later in the cycle? Also, anyone that has played with different buffer set ups what has been your experience in regards to the V2 in those cases? |
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Originally Posted By EDL: Question for anyone that has had to add the shims to their V2. ASD told me in the email that shims will "change the timing." So question is, does that mean the hammer is released sooner or later in the cycle? Also, anyone that has played with different buffer set ups what has been your experience in regards to the V2 in those cases? The shim has no effect on trip timing, the shim changes the reset timing typically used for over cut geisseles or with platforms that need to reset faster like a 22LR or AR9. |
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Think of it like the trigger resets when bolt is at rear of ejection port… not good generally. Shim makes the trigger reset when bolt is more middle of ejection port. That’s what you are looking for. ETA Listen to the guy above me. He’s the Zen Master  Seriously, he’s like the Tesla of our generation with firearms tech without the electricity or time travel 
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Excellent, thanks for the info. I was hoping my current buffer set up would have worked, but alas, it will not for several reasons. I am running a CMMG RDB upper and also a very over gassed 7.5" 300 Blk upper (with an AGB), suppressed with subsonics. Current buffer set up is too much for the 9mm with the added energy reduction form the forced reset. I can sort of get the 300 to run if I open the gas nearly all the way, but not ideal at all. Going back to a standard carbine spring and tube and a sliding weight H2 buffer from Tromix. That should work fine for the 9mm, and if the H2 is a little too light for 300, I can dial back the gas and both should be happy. A real shame as that current buffer set up is absolutely sweet for both without the FRT. |
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Originally Posted By s3igu2: This is mostly just a screwless design, the reason being we are working on a lot of harsher action platforms like the 308 and Gen 12 also SCAR 17, where they have a habit of knocking everything off the gun. The roll pin ARC is for one more durable, which helps some in 308 and zero risk of the selector screws coming loose. The roll pin version, of course, has downsides also like it's harder to install somewhat and is limited to 90 180 only. The lever design is based off the selector I pulled off of, I think my colt 6920. I couldn't use a normal mil spec looking selector since the shaft of the detent bar has to stick out in order for the roll pin to install. @s3igu2 so will these be available as a selector upgrade for the V2? |
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| As much as I love my G triggers, swapped one of my clones back to the correct USGI style trigger, so there's a pre-cut SSA listed at a discount in the EE |
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Originally Posted By ChemTrailZ: As much as I love my G triggers, swapped one of my clones back to the correct USGI style trigger, so there's a pre-cut SSA listed at a discount in the EE That’s a good price just fyi- Primary Arms and AR15discounts have them at that price new. It may sit till they come off sale. Like I said with the blocker and precut it’s a good deal. |
| Does anyone know of any sources for a Schmidt trigger that is pre-cut for the V2? The OEM V2 trigger has a shoe that is about 1/8 shorter than a genuine milspec and Schmid triggers. I didn't notice it at first since I only used G triggers, but for my sausage fingers, it causes quite a bit of bite. |
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Trying to figure out if one of my existing stamped SBR lowers will take a V2, but not sure if any of them will. First is an Aero P X15, second is a Colt Sporter Match HBAR (pb) with sear block removed:  ETA also KAC SR-15 (ambi): 
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Originally Posted By ChemTrailZ: Does anyone know of any sources for a Schmidt trigger that is pre-cut for the V2? The OEM V2 trigger has a shoe that is about 1/8 shorter than a genuine milspec and Schmid triggers. I didn't notice it at first since I only used G triggers, but for my sausage fingers, it causes quite a bit of bite. |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: Is the included pre cut trigger decent? Also is a shim needed for the V2? Thanks The included one is decent. A nice smooth, rolling break, as long as you’re using a quality hammer. The shim is not necessarily needed. I have six or seven ARC-Fires, and none of them need shims. Shit, that’s wrong. I counted, and I have eight. No shims. Four with Geisseles and four mil spec type. |
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Originally Posted By ChemTrailZ: It bites pretty bad, but I don't have baby hands like @ELittlefield  Originally Posted By ChemTrailZ: Originally Posted By FreefallRet: Does the reset bite that bad? I barely feel my partisan reset. It bites pretty bad, but I don't have baby hands like @ELittlefield Hey, why am I catching strays???? |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Hey, why am I catching strays???? In an effort to illustrate the difference in feel based on hand size, I decided to pick on you...in all seriousness it's about a 1/8" difference in length compared to schmid/usgi, and if you have large hands and/or thicker fingers, that difference in length places the tip of the trigger about 3/4 down the tip of my finger. The SSA(only G trigger I use) matches th usgi/schmid geometry so is a perfect fit for me |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: The included one is decent. A nice smooth, rolling break, as long as you're using a quality hammer. The shim is not necessarily needed. I have six or seven ARC-Fires, and none of them need shims. Shit, that's wrong. I counted, and I have eight. No shims. Four with Geisseles and four mil spec type. I was told the bore buddy 22 upper might need shims to work. |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: Thanks, I was told the bore buddy 22 upper might need shims to work. Bore Buddy includes one shim with the trip for the ArcFire. From what I’ve read, sometimes it’s needed but not always. Since the cycle stroke is shorter in a .22lr, sometimes the trip needs to reset earlier. The shim retimes the lever so it does just that. |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: Bore Buddy includes one shim with the trip for the ArcFire. From what I've read, sometimes it's needed but not always. Since the cycle stroke is shorter in a .22lr, sometimes the trip needs to reset earlier. The shim retimes the lever so it does just that. Trigger and trip should be here this weekend. I am hoping it works out of the box without much tuning. I just don't know anything about a arc fire trigger, gonna be fun figuring it out. I just hope the bore buddy trip will work out of the box. |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: Ok thanks Trigger and trip should be here this weekend. I am hoping it works out of the box without much tuning. I just don't know anything about a arc fire trigger, gonna be fun figuring it out. I just hope the bore buddy trip will work out of the box. I bought a Kaw Valley reduced power spring kit which came with reduced power springs for the disconnector, hammer and trigger and it has made my 22 run really consistent. I also added the Bore Buddy super strike Titanium firing pin. It has been nearly 100% reliable with SV CCI (sub sonic but not labeled as such) ammo. |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: Ok thanks Trigger and trip should be here this weekend. I am hoping it works out of the box without much tuning. I just don't know anything about a arc fire trigger, gonna be fun figuring it out. I just hope the bore buddy trip will work out of the box. You’re welcome. Please keep us updated. I really never got my ArcFire to work as satisfactory as I wanted. It was close but didn’t get it to run as well as the CopperHead Safety that I had setup in my other two .22lr setups. So I replaced it with another CopperHead and it runs as well as the other two now. |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: You're welcome. Please keep us updated. I really never got my ArcFire to work as satisfactory as I wanted. It was close but didn't get it to run as well as the CopperHead Safety that I had setup in my other two .22lr setups. So I replaced it with another CopperHead and it runs as well as the other two now. I have the titanium firing pin and the yellow reduced power hammer spring. Replacing the hammer spring was how I got my 22 upper to work with the trigger kicker. What was the problem with the ArcFire? Bore buddy said the ArcFire and the Atrius were the easier FRTs to tune with their uppers. |
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I think it comes down to tolerances honestly. I like the mil-spec style levers of the ArcFire more than the mil-spec style levers of the Copperhead. Very little difference but there is a little bit. Mine ran pretty well but I couldn’t quite get it to run like my other two with the Copperhead. I tried the reduced power hammer and trigger springs but it wouldn’t run. I think the reduced power wasn’t strong enough to ignite the rimfire cartridge. On the flip side, the Coperhead works well with Schmid FCG but works the best with LBE Unlimited FCG. Believe me, I tried them in every combination possible. I believe that others have had success with the ArcFire. I didn’t mean to sound discouraging. Another reason that may have contributed is my ArcFire is a V1. I measured and it didn’t have any tolerance issues like some of them did. I tried it with and without the shim that comes with the Bore Buddy trip. It seemed better with the shim so I left it. I really wanted to get it to run because I have some in my store and the intent was to promote them with the uppers I assemble. They are the V2 versions and I may go back and try one but didn’t really want to open another to try. It has been ridiculously hot here in Arkansas for quite some time. When the weather breaks I will make some more videos. For fun, here’s a pic of another upper(top) I assembled last weekend. Attached File |
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I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
ARC Fire V2 (Page 12 of 13)
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