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Cornfire Arsenal? (Now Copperhead Safety vs Corn Gun Works?) (Page 3 of 10)
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Primary Arms has blem Geissele SSA's for 130 bucks.  Yea I broke down and ordered two of them this morning. That is less than I paid for a used one from the EE here a month ago. They are still $250 everywhere else. So either they are losing money on each one they sell at this price, or all the G triggers have one hell of a mark up. |
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Is the screw 4-40? Is it tapered head? I’ve got a bag of 100 torx screws that I ordered for the ArC fire maintenance along with the 27 dollar McMaster carr shims. I figured I would strip a bunch moving around as we have to loctite them due to backing out. Somebody post a pic please. Or not mine will be here tomorrow 
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Originally Posted By HKH: Is the screw 4-40? Is it tapered head? I’ve got a bag of 100 torx screws that I ordered for the ArC fire maintenance along with the 27 dollar McMaster carr shims. I figured I would strip a bunch moving around as we have to loctite them due to backing out. Somebody post a pic please. Or not mine will be here tomorrow It is a tiny hex head short fucker. I’d take a pic for you but I locktited the piss out of it a few hours ago and don’t want to take it out. |
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Last night, I installed my Cornfire MARC in one of my AR15 pistols with a LaRue MBT trigger. No good. No go. It fails function tests. Not even close to working. It has so many problems that I'm not even going to begin to try to describe them. I'll now wait for videos and/or pictures which describe needed *modifications. Then, after I make the suggested *modifications, we'll see how the MARC runs. |
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Some videos of the MARC in action. The 14.5 in Geissele and 16 in Colt uppers have the MBT trigger in the lower. The Colt Commando was the BCM PNT trigger. https://imgur.com/0asiBlK https://imgur.com/BZpEmZR https://imgur.com/jAYpd9S |
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Originally Posted By Chisel: Some videos of the MARC in action. The 14.5 in Geissele and 16 in Colt uppers have the MBT trigger in the lower. The Colt Commando was the BCM PNT trigger. https://imgur.com/0asiBlK https://imgur.com/BZpEmZR https://imgur.com/jAYpd9S Man, I can feel the concussion of that brake in the first video |
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Originally Posted By tonysoprano150: Man, I can feel the concussion of that brake in the first video Originally Posted By tonysoprano150: Originally Posted By Chisel: Some videos of the MARC in action. The 14.5 in Geissele and 16 in Colt uppers have the MBT trigger in the lower. The Colt Commando was the BCM PNT trigger. https://imgur.com/0asiBlK https://imgur.com/BZpEmZR https://imgur.com/jAYpd9S Man, I can feel the concussion of that brake in the first video Oof. Yes! |
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Originally Posted By Chisel: Some videos of the MARC in action. The 14.5 in Geissele and 16 in Colt uppers have the MBT trigger in the lower. The Colt Commando was the BCM PNT trigger. https://imgur.com/0asiBlK https://imgur.com/BZpEmZR https://imgur.com/jAYpd9S Yeah, that's pretty badass. |
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Got one installed. It passes the basic function test with my unmodified Geissele SSA. When I depress the hammer fully, and put the selector in the Auto position, there is zero binding of the lever. It dry fires correctly and normally on semi auto. In forced reset, it functions when I dry fire, and while holding the trigger back, racking the action, it drops the hammer again. The trigger pull on Forced Reset is a little different from the standard pull; it gets a little heavier sometimes, but also it's like you're pulling against a wall, and you have to shift the wall back a bit, if that makes any sense at all. It's difficult to describe. The semi auto trigger pull is perfectly normal. I'll pew pew tomorrow.  " /> " />
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Originally Posted By georgeib: I think I did the same thing you did  Originally Posted By georgeib: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Edit because I'm a moron who shouldn't be allowed access to tools. Stand by. I think I did the same thing you did I have no idea what you're talking about. I installed it correctly, on the first attempt, with no problems, as you can see in my clearly unedited post above. |
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I think I'll change my user name to bad luck schleprock Five MBT's would not pass function. Three had binding even in semi, the two that didn't still would not pass function in the 3rd P. All of these triggers are at least 5 years old, 3 being new in the tin. I'm not certain where to trim/polish, top of the tail or the bump on the bottom, maybe both... I'll wait till the guide comes out. So I tried a G$ G2S, not listed as compatible and its not with my G2S at least. Next up was an SSA-E, nope... worked in semi but would not release in the 3rd P. I know from the AZR threads that G has changed dimensions somewhat over the years and mine is probably 15 years old. Tried an RA-100 for shit and giggles, also not listed as compatible and its not. So, just to see if the damn MARC would work at all I tried a PSA EPT and a couple generic mil spec triggers out of the parts bin. All passed function, the EPT being particularly smoooth. I may live fire the EPT, not sure if I want to as I purchased the MARC to use with an MBT.... |
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Originally Posted By shultz: I think I'll change my user name to bad luck schleprock Five MBT's would not pass function. Three had binding even in semi, the two that didn't still would not pass function in the 3rd P. All of these triggers are at least 5 years old, 3 being new in the tin. I'm not certain where to trim/polish, top of the tail or the bump on the bottom, maybe both... I'll wait till the guide comes out. So I tried a G$ G2S, not listed as compatible and its not with my G2S at least. Next up was an SSA-E, nope... worked in semi but would not release in the 3rd P. I know from the AZR threads that G has changed dimensions somewhat over the years and mine is probably 15 years old. Tried an RA-100 for shit and giggles, also not listed as compatible and its not. So, just to see if the damn MARC would work at all I tried a PSA EPT and a couple generic mil spec triggers out of the parts bin. All passed function, the EPT being particularly smoooth. I may live fire the EPT, not sure if I want to as I purchased the MARC to use with an MBT.... How hard did you pull the trigger with the SSA-E? I initially thought it wouldn't go, but it did with a few more pounds of pressure. Not a ton more, but it's noticeably a heavier trigger pull than in semi. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: How hard did you pull the trigger with the SSA-E? I initially thought it wouldn't go, but it did with a few more pounds of pressure. Not a ton more, but it's noticeably a heavier trigger pull than in semi. either way, I want this thing to work with an MBT. One of the 5 I tried was almost there I think...it felt like it wanted to release but was just a thou or so short, that one I did gorilla...no go.Edit: I slapped 9mm and a 5.56 uppers on with the EPT installed. 9mm was silky smooth, zero binding during hand function and timing looks good. Same for the 5.56 upper. I'll be shocked if either fails live fire. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Man I dont remember if I gorilla'd the SSA-E trigger or not...I don't think I did. I may try that later but for today I'm done trigger swapping and installing either way, I want this thing to work with an MBT. One of the 5 I tried was almost there I think...it felt like it wanted to release but was just a thou or so short, that one I did gorilla...no go.Originally Posted By shultz: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: How hard did you pull the trigger with the SSA-E? I initially thought it wouldn't go, but it did with a few more pounds of pressure. Not a ton more, but it's noticeably a heavier trigger pull than in semi. either way, I want this thing to work with an MBT. One of the 5 I tried was almost there I think...it felt like it wanted to release but was just a thou or so short, that one I did gorilla...no go.I know what you mean. If they worked with a 2 stage MBT, I'd probably buy 5 more tonight. That's my standard trigger in most of my non clone guns. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I know what you mean. If they worked with a 2 stage MBT, I'd probably buy 5 more tonight. That's my standard trigger in most of my non clone guns. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Got one installed. It passes the basic function test with my unmodified Geissele SSA. When I depress the hammer fully, and put the selector in the Auto position, there is zero binding of the lever. It dry fires correctly and normally on semi auto. In forced reset, it functions when I dry fire, and while holding the trigger back, racking the action, it drops the hammer again. The trigger pull on Forced Reset is a little different from the standard pull; it gets a little heavier sometimes, but also it's like you're pulling against a wall, and you have to shift the wall back a bit, if that makes any sense at all. It's difficult to describe. The semi auto trigger pull is perfectly normal. I'll pew pew tomorrow. https://i.imgur.com/9PPSBDP.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/9PPSBDP.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/EQBwsFA.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/EQBwsFA.jpeg Is that piece of plastic shit on the hammer the lever over travel stop?  I mean I knew $1 was too good to be true for one of the nice metal ones but damn |
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Originally Posted By MaxTheRabbit: Is that piece of plastic shit on the hammer the lever over travel stop? I mean I knew $1 was too good to be true for one of the nice metal ones but damn Originally Posted By MaxTheRabbit: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Got one installed. It passes the basic function test with my unmodified Geissele SSA. When I depress the hammer fully, and put the selector in the Auto position, there is zero binding of the lever. It dry fires correctly and normally on semi auto. In forced reset, it functions when I dry fire, and while holding the trigger back, racking the action, it drops the hammer again. The trigger pull on Forced Reset is a little different from the standard pull; it gets a little heavier sometimes, but also it's like you're pulling against a wall, and you have to shift the wall back a bit, if that makes any sense at all. It's difficult to describe. The semi auto trigger pull is perfectly normal. I'll pew pew tomorrow. https://i.imgur.com/9PPSBDP.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/9PPSBDP.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/EQBwsFA.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/EQBwsFA.jpeg Is that piece of plastic shit on the hammer the lever over travel stop? I mean I knew $1 was too good to be true for one of the nice metal ones but damn It seems to do the job. Time will tell if it's durable, I suppose. It's not like it has to do much, just physically prevent the tip of the lever from going too far forward. |
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I tried 2 more uppers with the MARC and SSA-E. Couldn't get either of them to run, both of these uppers run with SS or an AZR. The hammer is just clearly dropping WAY too early with the MARC. Also, the plastic lever blocker broke this time out which caused the trigger to lock up. Took the pieces out and called it a day. Guess I'll test next time with a milspec trigger. Kind of disappointed because I bought it to use with the ssa-e |
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Anyone thats reading this that has some MBT's laying about... Would you mind measuring across the tail including the peak bottom bump? I'm wondering if my 5 year or so old triggers have the same measurements as more recent production since some have had success in this very thread with MBT's. I measured the 3 spares I have, these measure, .340, .339, .339. These were tried with the MARC(dot on cam) and would not pass function. I have one thats probably a few thou thinner but its back in a gun now, it seemed closer to function in eariler testing but now I don't think it actually was. I measured the few mil spec trigger tails I function tested good eariler, all were around .325-.329 but even this measurement isn't the target with an MBT unless I'm missing something... Anyway, I took a little nap(was up at 2:30am this morning)... with fresher eyes, I had a closer look at how things interact with the MARC/MBT. The bottom bump is not an issue, the tail has enough down movement to force reset. What it lacks is enough up travel for me to release the hammer in FRT. I started removing material from the top of the tail a few thou at a time. At .330(was .340) I broke thru the surface hardening  at .325, I still didn't have hand function. At .320 it passed hand function but didn't always pass FRT function checks with an upper attached and had a tiny bit of what felt like binding as I racked the BCG back holding the trigger to the rear.. At .318 it finally smoothly passed every FRT trigger pull with an upper attached. HOWEVER, because I broke thru the surface hardening, even a few dozen cycles of the BCG left a clear line on tail where the cam interacts that I could feel dragging a fingernail across so durability is shot.The trigger is still fine on safe, even with two fingers pulling I can't drop the hammer using a milspec selector so the trigger isn't ruined but I wouldn't use it now. Call it an $80 experiment. On the upside, the MARC w/ PSA EPT "mil spec" trigger went Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrt using my SS 22lr upper  I only dumped one 25rd mag though, its 35 degrees out with a 10mph wind |
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Not compatible with a brand new blemula ssa I received yesterday. Need some assistance corn guys. It fires in semi, but does nothing in frt. I have over 20 frts but y’all said it worked with new G$ triggers. It doesn’t work with mine. Yeah it’s a short 4-40 Allen head screw. I took one out of the McMaster Carr ones and just ground it down and eyeballed Arc fire screw on left cornpop screw on right  Reversed sides 
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: It seems to do the job. Time will tell if it's durable, I suppose. It's not like it has to do much, just physically prevent the tip of the lever from going too far forward. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: It seems to do the job. Time will tell if it's durable, I suppose. It's not like it has to do much, just physically prevent the tip of the lever from going too far forward. Originally Posted By milo-007: Also, the plastic lever blocker broke this time out which caused the trigger to lock up. Took the pieces out and called it a day. lol |
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Originally Posted By MaxTheRabbit: lol Ran a few more mags of 22lr with the MARC/PSA EPT trigger combo. Man this combo squirts! Fired two 25rd mags in 2-4 shot strings, then dumped a 3rd. Next up was a BD 50rd drum dump, ZERO issues. The MARC dosen't seem to be sensitive to finger pressure like an SS is shooting 22lr. It also feels like it puts less friction in the system than an SS, thats a good thing with 22lr! I did have to change two things for the MARC vs previous SS setup. The BB adjustable SS lever trip needed the adjustment screw ran pretty far out to get good reset with my GMR SS /steel lever. With the MARC, this same adjustment caused binding so bad I couldn't fully rack the bolt. Ran the screw back in all the way, it ships from BB at this setting BTW. This gave me function. A few turns out would allow reset still but it felt harder to rack thru reset. Another couple turns out and it bound up. So I just ran the screw all the way back in. This setting gives perfect reset using the MARC/PSA EPT combo. The last thing was the auto sear pocket on the billet upper. The SS lever cleared just fine. With the MARC I noticed two faint shinny spots on each side of the pocket. One lined up with the lever in semi and the other when shifted to FRT. A tiny bit of dremel smithing on the pocket sides gave the needed lever clearance. I see zero rubbing with my 9MM setup using a mil spec upper so this was just a stacking issue with the billet upper I used for the 22lr build. I need to put more rds thru the new 22lr set up but so far I'm damn impressed with MARC/EPT combo for 22lr! |
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Cornfire, hell anyone that makes an FRT thats not cassette are all going to have the same issues. Slight changes to triggers that have been on the market for nearly two decades in some cases plus a sprinkle of tolerance stacking will leave some with triggers that won't work as advertised. My SSA-E did the same as your SSA. I'm not polishing or sanding G$. |
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I for one am tired of being in every single mfgs “beta test, QC, RD” etc and having to pay for the privilege. Attn all you MFGs: get your acts together and don’t write checks that your products asses can’t cash. Send me 2-3 hundred… wait months….receive after several more delays… doesn’t work-oh that shouldn’t happen let me send you an rma and send it back and then wait again for product. Rinse, repeat, it’s like deja vu all over again. JD is the only sumbitch who delivered and never failed to get a functional unit in your hands the first time. |
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I’m supposed to hear back from Drew according to whoever emailed me back. But it’s Sunday of thanksgiving weekend. The SSA I received last week so it’s new. As to my cornfed frt? No idea what generation it is. But why in the wild world of sports would you send out old tech claiming it functioned with the two most popular triggers on the planet, and apparently that gen works with neither. |
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Originally Posted By HKH: I for one am tired of being in every single mfgs “beta test, QC, RD” etc and having to pay for the privilege. Attn all you MFGs: get your acts together and don’t write checks that your products asses can’t cash. Send me 2-3 hundred… wait months….receive after several more delays… doesn’t work-oh that shouldn’t happen let me send you an rma and send it back and then wait again for product. Rinse, repeat, it’s like deja vu all over again. JD is the only sumbitch who delivered and never failed to get a functional unit in your hands the first time. I feel your pain there. Still waiting to hear anything back from ASD on my two arc's and G triggers. This is one reason I have been holding off on buying one of these. The biggest reason is no ambi, but also because it seems these are starting to have issues. I do not want to go through this lottery again. The only FRT I have that has worked 100% has been my rare breed 3 position. I would buy more but the semi auto trigger pull sucks so much ass. |
| Mine arrived over the holiday weekend. So far have tried it on 2 Schmid gi triggers and 1 MBT. It definitely is not gonna work with the MBT and 1 of the gi's, but possibly will work with 1 of the gi's. While disappointed on the MBT, I'm hopeful they will post some sort of solution. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Anyone thats reading this that has some MBT's laying about... Would you mind measuring across the tail including the peak bottom bump? I'm wondering if my 5 year or so old triggers have the same measurements as more recent production since some have had success in this very thread with MBT's. I measured the 3 spares I have, these measure, .340, .339, .339. These were tried with the MARC(dot on cam) and would not pass function. I have one thats probably a few thou thinner but its back in a gun now, it seemed closer to function in eariler testing but now I don't think it actually was. I will measure the tail area with calipers on the MBT that works for me. I tried 2 new MBTs I bought awhile ago and they don’t work in FRT mode. The one that does work was used a lot so it might have worked down the tail a bit. IDK? I did try a MBT-2S that I bought from Grey Market Research that is set up to run a super safety. It does work in Semi and FRT mode, but it also fires in Safe due to the super safety cut out. |
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Originally Posted By Chisel: I will measure the tail area with calipers on the MBT that works for me. I tried 2 new MBTs I bought awhile ago and they don't work in FRT mode. The one that does work was used a lot so it might have worked down the tail a bit. IDK? I did try a MBT-2S that I bought from Grey Market Research that is set up to run a super safety. It does work in Semi and FRT mode, but it also fires in Safe due to the super safety cut out. There has to be some small difference in the MBT that works for you. |
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reminder that these are not the only tolerances that stack on the mbt. the exact position and angle of the front end/sear also determines MARC functionality. for a lot of the mbts out there, and even some milspecs it will require some tinkering to get running smoothly. most commonly will be some sanding on the top side of the rear of trigger, on some that are a touch long it may also mean rounding the top end a little. guide coming asap, waiting on a handful of MBTs to be delivered currently. on that note if some folks have mbts that work perfectly… photos and measurements would be greatly appreciated. i know everyone is frustrated about the MBT issue, and it is a priority. please understand that it is a tiny operation and everyone at CFA has a day job. all working with what time we have to satisfy everyone. |
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Bro What about Geissele $$A’s that don’t work as advertised on your website? I just measured a mil spec that works and they are as follows: 1. Top of Geissele SSA width in rear of trigger - .258” 2. same measurement generic mil spec trigger- .268” 3. Height of rear Geissele- .305” 4. Height of milspec in rear .330” as expected |
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Originally Posted By popcorn-enjoyer: reminder that these are not the only tolerances that stack on the mbt. the exact position and angle of the front end/sear also determines MARC functionality. for a lot of the mbts out there, and even some milspecs it will require some tinkering to get running smoothly. most commonly will be some sanding on the top side of the rear of trigger, on some that are a touch long it may also mean rounding the top end a little. guide coming asap, waiting on a handful of MBTs to be delivered currently. on that note if some folks have mbts that work perfectly photos and measurements would be greatly appreciated. i know everyone is frustrated about the MBT issue, and it is a priority. please understand that it is a tiny operation and everyone at CFA has a day job. all working with what time we have to satisfy everyone. Yeah...I fixated on the tail you're right, and maybe a combo of sear wear and or slight tolerance differences present out of the tin on the sear surfaces is why Chisel has a working MBT.I hope L's sear tolerances are tight. If not, getting a cam lever working may never be 100% possible. The tail is the only area I would consider modifing. You only have maybe .005 to work with before risking breaking thru the surface hardening. My tail started at .340, once I had removed .010 I checked again with an awl and realized the surface was no longer hardened. At this point I just went for it, I had to hit .318 to get FRT function. I did my best to keep the surface square and flat...maybe I could have reduced the amount I removed with a little rounding at the back corner, IDK. |
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Originally Posted By Bye_Felicia: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/40084/Photoroom_20251027_121946__16065_jpg-3655752.JPG It looks like an Atrius with a more traditional selector. There are only a few ways to skin this cat. |
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Originally Posted By shultz: Yeah...I fixated on the tail you're right, and maybe a combo of sear wear and or slight tolerance differences present out of the tin on the sear surfaces is why Chisel has a working MBT.I hope L's sear tolerances are tight. If not, getting a cam lever working may never be 100% possible. The tail is the only area I would consider modifing. You only have maybe .005 to work with before risking breaking thru the surface hardening. My tail started at .340, once I had removed .010 I checked again with an awl and realized the surface was no longer hardened. At this point I just went for it, I had to hit .318 to get FRT function. I did my best to keep the surface square and flat...maybe I could have reduced the amount I removed with a little rounding at the back corner, IDK. Perhaps someone could offer a rehardening service for people to utilize after they’ve hand fitted all their FCG components |
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Cornfire Arsenal? (Now Copperhead Safety vs Corn Gun Works?) (Page 3 of 10)
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