AR Sponsor
ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 27 of 28)
Joined:
Nov 2025
Posts:
58
EE: 0% (0)
USA
|
The ones I ordered from combat armory just came in and they surprisingly come with milspec selectors. Not sure when that happened. Edit. I know these are early v1 arc fires because the triggers are cut all over the place, Ill probably have to replace them, they aren’t consistent and the FRT reset doesn’t happen until the bolt is essentially all the way back. That said they did come with the new milspec selectors so I’m not complaining! I do vastly prefer the machine cut arc triggers I got with a later batch though, these all look like someone filed them by hand  Edit. Emailed ASD who were confused about this, the packaging was v1 but the trigger and selector are v2, and it looks like they could be sending out fakes. Anyone had a chance to test yet? I may just get a refund as it seems super sketchy. |
Member
Joined:
Aug 2025
Posts:
179
EE: 0% (0)
TX, USA
Joined:
Mar 2026
Posts:
6
EE: 0% (0)
TX, USA
|
Well... looks like I got screwed somehow. I sent my trigger to DeezNutzTactical for their G$ cutting service: https://deeznutztactical.com/product/geissele-machining-services/ Cost is $40 plus actual shipping cost both directions, so about $60 usps priority mail. Well... after two weeks I got my trigger back... untouched it seems. I'm just sitting here shocked right now.   
|
Joined:
Nov 2025
Posts:
62
EE: 0% (0)
USA
Joined:
Mar 2026
Posts:
7
EE: 0% (0)
TX, USA
|
DNT replied today - paraphrasing here, but essentially, they sent it back uncut as they've been unsuccessful in cutting the SSP to have the correct function with the cam, ruining and replacing two other SSP triggers in their attempts, so they will not cut that model anymore - this discovery occurred while my trigger was in queue. They forgot to let me know before returning it, and haven't updated their website yet. They refunded my machining cost, and said they'd refund the shipping cost too. I'll keep an eye out for that. So now... I'm tempted NOT to attempt the cut myself based on their challenges... even though ASD sells them precut (out-of-stock right now). Just in case, I ordered a precut SSA-E X from DNT so I'd at least be able to try a G$ in my rifle. Does anyone here have success cutting their SSP at home? I'm willing to try but I'd like to see some images and dimensions of a successful modification first. |
|
Just got a new V2 0-45-90 in, and dropped it in the lower with the included trigger. I'm using a PSA hammer that came with the lower (I put a Geissele SD3G in it about a year ago) I got to the function check, semi feels heavy and the arc-fire position is a no-go, feels like it is in safe. 0 - safety, passes function check 45 - semi, passes function check 90 - arcfire - fails, trigger does not release The install video is meant for the standard arc-fire install, so I wonder if I need to install the main selector switch with the ambi at 0 or 90 instead of semi like the video references? I made sure the groove in the cam was down. What did I cock up? |
|
Originally Posted By Shoresy: Just got a new V2 0-45-90 in, and dropped it in the lower with the included trigger. I'm using a PSA hammer that came with the lower (I put a Geissele SD3G in it about a year ago) I got to the function check, semi feels heavy and the arc-fire position is a no-go, feels like it is in safe. 0 - safety, passes function check 45 - semi, passes function check 90 - arcfire - fails, trigger does not release The install video is meant for the standard arc-fire install, so I wonder if I need to install the main selector switch with the ambi at 0 or 90 instead of semi like the video references? I made sure the groove in the cam was down. What did I cock up? I installed mine at 45 for the 0-45-90. It is easier for me to put it in position 2, then align the cam notch where it should be sitting properly to allow it to fire. |
|
Originally Posted By Shoresy: @jwlaxton I did mine in semi (45), it failed, so I pulled it apart and did it over at 45 again. No luck. I'm not sure what is going on, but 45 worked for you? Yes, and I've installed a few of them. I align the cam and drop it in, put the lever on, then make sure the trigger will release the hammer (fire) before I tighten the screw. |
|
Originally Posted By jwlaxton: Yes, and I've installed a few of them. I align the cam and drop it in, put the lever on, then make sure the trigger will release the hammer (fire) before I tighten the screw. Did you have the ambi in safe or semi when you put the grip on? I'm not sure that matters truth be told. |
|
Originally Posted By Shoresy: Did you have the ambi in safe or semi when you put the grip on? I'm not sure that matters truth be told. All mine are ambi, and I put the right side selector on to start with. I install the detent bar and lever, making sure the detent is lined up properly, then tighten the grip. At that point the lever and detent bar are in place, and I make sure the detent bar moves properly between position 1, 2, and 3. Then put it in position 2 and install the cam and left side selector. |
|
I took the arcfire, trigger and hammer out, cleaned everything, reassembled, same issue. Then I loosened the screw holding the main selector on a little (it was just snug before, nothing crazy), and it passed all function checks. The screw is looser than I like though, even with blue loctite on it. Any suggestions? |
| Currently I've been having good luck with my V2, but I've been debating about buying the Surefire OBC BCG to slow down the cyclic rate. Has anyone had any luck running said combo? Surefire does sell a 3.3oz buffer, so I between the OBC and slightly heavier buffer, I think it'll mitigate any bolt bounce. |
|
Is there an image that shows what alignment AS Design is talking about here? I'd think the ambi selector can only mount to the detent bar one way (dimples have to be in the bottom for pin to index in them) and then you just slide the fire lever on, mount the grip, slide the cam in with the groove facing down and and big end facing the bar, and then attach the main selector, matching its position to the ambi selector, right? This is sometimes caused with our 45° kits by tightening the selector while misaligned. We recommend loosening the primary selector, aligning the selector, and retightening the screws while maintaining selector alignment. |
|
Gonna try something tonight or tomorrow. I have an extra Arc Fire V1 still in the package. I was comparing my high shelf PSA to my Rock River high shelf lower. The pocket behind the selector is cut farther to the rear on the PSA. The deeper cut “may” let the reset lever come back far enough to clear the shelf. It’ll probably be in the morn as we have thunderstorms going on at this time and my 85 pound furball is a nervous wreck when it’s thundering. Anyway, here’s a pic. Rock River on the left, PSA on the right. I’ll check back in tomorrow. Attached File |
|
Help me out here. The part that goes on the left side of the lever isn’t sliding down the shaft far enough. Seems like there’s a shoulder that it’s hitting. Sorry, I really don’t know the correct name of the parts. My first arc fire all fell right together. This one ends up leaving the left side selector sticking out an eight inch or so. Help a brother out. Here’s some pics so you’ll know what I’m talking about. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
| I put it together and besides having a little gap on each side it seems to function check correctly. The levers do stick out a little farther on each side vs my other Arc Fire V1. Maybe just a few thousandths more on each side. Not sure if I’ll make it to the range before Friday. |
Made it to the range today and everything works as it should. Ran 2 28 round mags thru on a 7.62x39 upper without a bobble.  June 3, 2026 |
|
Originally Posted By hobbez84: Currently I've been having good luck with my V2, but I've been debating about buying the Surefire OBC BCG to slow down the cyclic rate. Has anyone had any luck running said combo? Surefire does sell a 3.3oz buffer, so I between the OBC and slightly heavier buffer, I think it'll mitigate any bolt bounce. You will have to modify the internal spring loaded weight that rides inside of the tail end of the carrier by removing enough material from the front of that weight to allow the ArcFire lever to not get caught under the internal weight when returning to battery. I've seen a few hack theirs up to remove the material with the weight still installed, and though it did work, it looked pretty rough. I'd rather not hack up a $400 BCG. Surefire used to sell a punch kit specifically for removing and reinstalling the internal weight of the OBC, but it's no longer offered. There is a specific length you have to reinsert the internal roll pin to in order to correctly reassemble it. I have two OBCs and have attempted to remove the weight from one of the carriers with no luck. I plan on reaching out to Surefire in the next few days to see if they have instructions on how to do it and what size punch is required. (My punch set didn't seem to work correctly and was either too small or wouldnt fit in the hole). If I can't take it apart myself, I'll likely take it to a machine shop to have them remove some material from the exposed internal weight with it still installed. (You can see the same modification made to some of the 9mm AR15 BCGs as they also have internal weights similar to the Surefire OBC. Difference is, most of these use a simple roll pin on the side of the carrier which is much easier to remove). |
|
Just a heads up, the mil spec pre cut triggers that came with my V2’s (ordered direct from ASD the first week they were released) were defective, the right side was cut OK, the left corner was rounded OK, but basically the middle had an extra step, where it was too tall, so the ARC Fire would not work in regular semi (would not reset, hammer would follow). I tried all my V2 and V1 parts before realizing it was the triggers that ASD had included that were the issue, a minute with a file to lower that step and it worked fine. Wasn’t difficult to do, but I wasted a lot of time on it because I was thinking I needed a shim, turned out it was just the trigger cut… The defective triggers had the machined areas in the white, whereas the good triggers that had come with my V1 kits were parkerized on the cut areas required for use with the Arc Fire. Bought another ALG ACT trigger on sale a couple weeks ago, and a Geiselle G2S as well, with the intent of modifying both for use with the Arc Fires. The G2S is nice, not sure if I will like it that much, seems real similar to my RRA 2 stage, but heavier. Anyhow it was on sale so no huge loss if I don’t end up loving it. Already use the ACT triggers in multiple guns so no worries about that one. I will post a photo later so people can see what the issue was on the triggers. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
| If you manually cycle your AR in arc-fire mode with the trigger depressed, does it take extra force to complete the cycle? The difference between semi and arc-fire on mine is huge. I haven't test fired it yet, don't want to damage the rifle. I have a v2 0-45-90 installed. |
Member
Joined:
Dec 2023
Posts:
10519
EE: 100% (7)
USA
|
Originally Posted By Shoresy: If you manually cycle your AR in arc-fire mode with the trigger depressed, does it take extra force to complete the cycle? The difference between semi and arc-fire on mine is huge. I haven't test fired it yet, don't want to damage the rifle. I have a v2 0-45-90 installed. Should be very, very little difference. |
It was not preached to the crowd,
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
Joined:
Aug 2026
Posts:
1
EE: 0% (0)
TN, USA
| FYI... if this hasn't already been mentioned, removal of the material on a G$ SSE-X as shown multiple times in this thread makes the Atrius FRT run like a sewing machine. The downside is it does so at the cost of no longer having a safety (trust me). I know this is an ARC thread, but the Atrius is mentioned as being compatible to the modification and unfortunately it is not. Works flawlessly outside of that though. |
|
Been trying to go through some thread/posts here, and the ASD website, and I am not finding the exact issue I am having. Gun is a older bushmaster 16in M4 style carbine. I think it is pre ban as it has a flash hider and bayo lug. I replaced the buffer with a H3, and I replaced the bolt carrier for a FA one. I had a extra brand new in the package V1 arc fire and a new G2S trigger (and the lever blocker). I cut the right side of the trigger, and just barely round the left, like clearly outlined in this thread. I have done two other G triggers and they are both working. Doing a function test, safe works fine, semi works fine, I put it in forced reset and I feel the trigger push forward against my finger, but when the bolt closes the hammer does not fall. I can release the trigger and I hear the click of it resetting and then I can pull it fine. It is as if the arc is not fully resetting the trigger. Again, I only barely rounded the corner. Hammer held down with my finger, the arc lever moves freely forward and backwards in semi and arc positions. I have another older bushmaster, and I have a V2 in it, but also a cut G trigger. It is working fine. I take the 16in upper and put it on the 20in lower. It bench tests fine in semi and forced reset with no issue. I put the 20in upper on the 16in lower and it bench tests fine as well. But the 16in upper and lower together and it will not reset in forced reset mode. I tried swapping to a different BCG and still the same. I am scratching my head on this one. |
|
Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Been trying to go through some thread/posts here, and the ASD website, and I am not finding the exact issue I am having. Gun is a older bushmaster 16in M4 style carbine. I think it is pre ban as it has a flash hider and bayo lug. I replaced the buffer with a H3, and I replaced the bolt carrier for a FA one. I had a extra brand new in the package V1 arc fire and a new G2S trigger (and the lever blocker). I cut the right side of the trigger, and just barely round the left, like clearly outlined in this thread. I have done two other G triggers and they are both working. Doing a function test, safe works fine, semi works fine, I put it in forced reset and I feel the trigger push forward against my finger, but when the bolt closes the hammer does not fall. I can release the trigger and I hear the click of it resetting and then I can pull it fine. It is as if the arc is not fully resetting the trigger. Again, I only barely rounded the corner. Hammer held down with my finger, the arc lever moves freely forward and backwards in semi and arc positions. I have another older bushmaster, and I have a V2 in it, but also a cut G trigger. It is working fine. I take the 16in upper and put it on the 20in lower. It bench tests fine in semi and forced reset with no issue. I put the 20in upper on the 16in lower and it bench tests fine as well. But the 16in upper and lower together and it will not reset in forced reset mode. I tried swapping to a different BCG and still the same. I am scratching my head on this one. I had the same problem. Try polishing or taking just a smidgen off the rounded corner. |
I don't need therapy. I just need someone to rob me at the gas station so I can let it all out.
|
Originally Posted By CoyoteGray: I had the same problem. Try polishing or taking just a smidgen off the rounded corner. This, You should be able to hold the trigger squeezed while cycling the charging handle and feel the trigger reset and fire when the clearances are correct... |
|
So…I have a super duty (aero m4 pro lower) with a ssa-e x I cut myself, a AS lever blocker, and the AS 0-45-90 gen 2 selector. Worked flawlessly. Gradually got rid of the heavy trigger by rounding the rear. I have never been happy with the selector screws backing out. It seems sort of off next to the 0-90-180. The gun has less than 100 rounds through it, but hundreds of manipulations of the safety. It was lose in my last night so I tightened it (at the 45 position seems to work best), ran it a little more, and the shaft snapped off inside the drum to the left of the lever. dunno how often this happens…but that shaft doesn’t not exactly seem to be made of anything that stout…may not be cast, but it sheared apart pretty easy. I have seen complaints about the 0-45-90 setup. I like it a lot, but it’s not worth breaking them…and do I really need to switch to frt that quickly…? I have a g1 with 3k-4k rounds…and I’d still be a little peeved if the shaft broke…doesn’t seem like it should take that much abuse. But I am no rocket surgeon. Thought I’d just see if AS would be ok with switching to the 0-90-180 selector. Anyone else have a similar experience? https://imgur.com/a/45vR3BD |
|
Originally Posted By BKenton: So…I have a super duty (aero m4 pro lower) with a ssa-e x I cut myself, a AS lever blocker, and the AS 0-45-90 gen 2 selector. Worked flawlessly. Gradually got rid of the heavy trigger by rounding the rear. I have never been happy with the selector screws backing out. It seems sort of off next to the 0-90-180. The gun has less than 100 rounds through it, but hundreds of manipulations of the safety. It was lose in my last night so I tightened it (at the 45 position seems to work best), ran it a little more, and the shaft snapped off inside the drum to the left of the lever. dunno how often this happens…but that shaft doesn’t not exactly seem to be made of anything that stout…may not be cast, but it sheared apart pretty easy. I have seen complaints about the 0-45-90 setup. I like it a lot, but it’s not worth breaking them…and do I really need to switch to frt that quickly…? I have a g1 with 3k-4k rounds…and I’d still be a little peeved if the shaft broke…doesn’t seem like it should take that much abuse. But I am no rocket surgeon. Thought I’d just see if AS would be ok with switching to the 0-90-180 selector. Anyone else have a similar experience? https://imgur.com/a/45vR3BD I would sure hope they would replace that. That kind of failure should not be possible. I use the purple locktite222 on my selector screws. |
I don't need therapy. I just need someone to rob me at the gas station so I can let it all out.
|
Originally Posted By Smturnage69: FYI... if this hasn't already been mentioned, removal of the material on a G$ SSE-X as shown multiple times in this thread makes the Atrius FRT run like a sewing machine. The downside is it does so at the cost of no longer having a safety (trust me). I know this is an ARC thread, but the Atrius is mentioned as being compatible to the modification and unfortunately it is not. Works flawlessly outside of that though. So far so good for me. Took out my SSA-E X and hit it with the dremel. Perfect trigger pulls in both positions, frt in frt mode and normal in semi, safety works as it should (also works as it should with radian safety). Not a lot of rounds to be fair. And the shaft just broke (0-45-90 selector). As you can see I did not remove all the material from the swoop and I did barely round the back corner…just until the trigger pull was normal. I am wondering if not removing enough from the swoop could have cracked the shaft. But the gun was so smooth, no resistance, tiny little reset…it seemed great and I have read complaints about the 0/45/90 selectors….hoping that is it.  https://imgur.com/a/tmAVoLF |
|
Originally Posted By CoyoteGray: I would sure hope they would replace that. That kind of failure should not be possible. I use the purple locktite222 on my selector screws. Yeah I am not super pumped about ii…first significant ASD issue I have had. I tend to use blue permatex gel on everything…I’m pretty positive I did have these thread locked at some point. They just kept backing out. I almost wonder if some wear of damage from running it while loose could have set up it for failure… |
|
Originally Posted By BKenton: So…I have a super duty (aero m4 pro lower) with a ssa-e x I cut myself, a AS lever blocker, and the AS 0-45-90 gen 2 selector. Worked flawlessly. Gradually got rid of the heavy trigger by rounding the rear. I have never been happy with the selector screws backing out. It seems sort of off next to the 0-90-180. The gun has less than 100 rounds through it, but hundreds of manipulations of the safety. It was lose in my last night so I tightened it (at the 45 position seems to work best), ran it a little more, and the shaft snapped off inside the drum to the left of the lever. dunno how often this happens…but that shaft doesn’t not exactly seem to be made of anything that stout…may not be cast, but it sheared apart pretty easy. I have seen complaints about the 0-45-90 setup. I like it a lot, but it’s not worth breaking them…and do I really need to switch to frt that quickly…? I have a g1 with 3k-4k rounds…and I’d still be a little peeved if the shaft broke…doesn’t seem like it should take that much abuse. But I am no rocket surgeon. Thought I’d just see if AS would be ok with switching to the 0-90-180 selector. Anyone else have a similar experience? https://imgur.com/a/45vR3BD Well that doesn’t look good! Here is the pic he posted up: Attached File |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
|
Originally Posted By CoyoteGray: I had the same problem. Try polishing or taking just a smidgen off the rounded corner. Originally Posted By CoyoteGray: I had the same problem. Try polishing or taking just a smidgen off the rounded corner. Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: This, You should be able to hold the trigger squeezed while cycling the charging handle and feel the trigger reset and fire when the clearances are correct... I just fear taking too much off and ruining the trigger. I just do not want to over do it. I almost would have thought this type of failure would be from over cutting the trigger, nut under cutting it. I thought under cutting it would just make it to where you could not pull the trigger. That's how my other two were. I could not pull the trigger till it was cut enough. |
Member
Joined:
Jun 2025
Posts:
40
EE: 0% (0)
NC, USA
|
Originally Posted By tac556: Well that doesn’t look good! Here is the pic he posted up: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/23705/IMG_2533_jpeg-3819933.JPG A-S has shipped a new “detent shaft”. Very responsive customer service. |
Joined:
Sep 2026
Posts:
1
EE: 0% (0)
WI, USA
|
Just had a really bad experience with one of my newly acquired Arc Fire selectors. Last week I purchased two Arc Fire v2 non ambi models. The one I got working was for an early RRA LAR-15, which had a high rear shelf. I dremiled out a notch in the rear shelf, and it seems to function fine, I plan to go to the farm in about an hour and test fire. The other one, is not working with me at all. I literally spent hours trying to figure out why I could only get semi auto to function, I installed it in three different lowers, and thought that possibly the pre cut trigger was over cut. No matter what lower it was in, when doing the function test in frt mode, it will not reset until I let off the trigger. Today, I disassembled it, and was gonna disassemble the RRA, and swap pre cut triggers…..and it looks like the selector barrel has a chunk taken out of it. Luckily, Optics Planet is gonna exchange it. Was there a run of these units that were defective? I’m kind of worried about the one that I’m not sending back. I sent AS Designs a picture of it to see what they thought. But I don’t exactly know how to post a picture on here. |
|
Originally Posted By thunderopossom: Think that is a pretty common setup I've seen online. Has anyone used an Alg qms single stage trigger? I want to stay with a mil spec pull. |
Tom Sawyer.
"If The Rules brought us to this, what use are they?"
"If The Rules brought us to this, what use are they?"
|
I take that back. I bought the kit with the AS Design trigger. I did not modify the ALG trigger. Sorry for the confusion. But I am currently running an SSA-E that I modified. ETA: I'm actually running the ALG with a Trigger Kicker in a Colt lower. |
Tom Sawyer.
"If The Rules brought us to this, what use are they?"
"If The Rules brought us to this, what use are they?"
President's 100, Distinguished Rifleman, Blues Man
Joined:
Dec 2000
Posts:
20554
EE: 100% (15)
GA, USA
|
Read every page of this thread, learned a lot. ASD AF-V2 and lever bar ordered, SSA-E sent to DNT for cutting (my Dremel is broke and I want one to see). Making a new short carbine, haven't had the itch to build a new lower out in years, but that was yesterday.
|
You can joust at windmills with that old Fender guitar. Probably do about the same.
President's 100, Distinguished Rifleman, Blues Man
Joined:
Dec 2000
Posts:
20560
EE: 100% (15)
GA, USA
|
Arc fire on my 16" BB upper 22 works like a sewing machine. Same BB 16" upper I used with the trigger kicker with full steel weights and a BB Arc fire trip Swapped with the below lower: Aero lower AS designs pre cut USGI trigger Arc fire FRT Schmidt hammer bb yellow reduced hammer spring. CCI mini mags. CMMG mag |
ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 27 of 28)
AR Sponsor
Join the Community
Your next conversation starts here.
Create your free account to join discussions, share your experience, save topics, and connect with the AR15.COM community.
- Join discussions
- Follow topics and replies
- Connect with fellow enthusiasts
Already a member? Sign in
Stay informed by subscribing to our Newsletter