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Posted: 7/13/2009 2:23:06 PM EDT
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Noveske Switchblock, Clamp-On
The Clamp-On Switchblock is available as a complete assembly for rifle builds or retro-fit. It is tuned for specific barrel and gas tube lengths, please choose from the drop box below. More options will be available soon. Available now: 10.5" barrel, carbine gas tube 12.5" barrel, carbine gas tube 14.5" barrel, carbine gas tube The Switchblock is machined from 17-4ph stainless with a durable matte black nitride finish. These have a .750" bore and only fit 5.56mm weapons. The unit is secured to the barrel by 2 allen head cap screws. For more information on the switchblock, please see the attached link. http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=sb2&cat=9&page=1&search=&since=&status The Clamp-On Switchblock is designed for installation by an experienced armorer or gunsmith. Supplied with gas tube, wrench, and instructions. 
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link isn't working for the lazy.................. http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=sb2&cat=9&page=1&search=&since=&status |
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link isn't working for the lazy.................. http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=sb2&cat=9&page=1&search=&since=&status Link fixed, thanks for the save. |
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LOL.... not to sound like I can't read or anything.... BUT.... I wonder which one I should use on a 12.5" 6.8SPC SBR I'm working on!? 
Hmm.... probably the 10.5" one is my guess. 
-ZA Available now: 10.5" barrel, carbine gas tube 12.5" barrel, carbine gas tube 14.5" barrel, carbine gas tube 
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LOL.... not to sound like I can't read or anything.... BUT.... I wonder which one I should use on a 12.5" 6.8SPC SBR I'm working on!?
Hmm.... probably the 10.5" one is my guess.
-ZA Available now: 10.5" barrel, carbine gas tube 12.5" barrel, carbine gas tube 14.5" barrel, carbine gas tube Noveske says 5.56 only...  I'm thinking that one of the three should work on a 12.5" 6.8 SPC.
-ZA |
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FYI!!!!!!!
Looks like the clamp on models are out of stock, but they have SS 10.5 and 12.5 barrels in stock with the pinned switchblocks installed: http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?cat=83 
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Quoted: Any ideas why the following statement is included with the item's description? "We recommend a pinned gas block for Military, Law Enforcement, and Self Defense use. Rifles, Uppers, and Barrels are available with a pinned Switchblock for these applications." Because a pinned gas block is just stronger and more reliable. Still thinking about getting a clamp on Switchblock to replace my pinned VLTOR gas block though...
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Quoted: forgive my ignorance, but lets say I pop a can onto a 10 1/2" semi auto upper and don't run a swtichblock.....what bad things will happen? Nothing particularly "bad", but there are costs to running a suppressor. You'll get a lot more gas/carbone blow back from the chamber, and from the gas tube. Backpressure increases a decent amount, as the gas that'd normally leave the muzzle is now either getting trapped in the can and cooling slowly, or is getting forced back into the action. Increased back pressure also means more wear and tear on the rifle's components such as the bolt and cam pin, accelerating your maintenance schedule. While most people on the internet are mostly concerned with a rifle that looks cool, rather than actually shooting it, you'll want to be more careful with your round count documentation and parts replacement when running suppressed. This is why piston rifles like the AUG don't silence well. You close the door with the can, but the piston opens the window. This is also why modern piston rifles like the HK 416 have a suppressor use setting. With an AR, you can reference the thread where a 416 was run with a suppressor and some much carbon built up that the FCG stopped working. I just ran a can in a Magpul class with about 800 rounds through it. The BCG was slick with thick carbon (i reapplied a few drops of CLP every 2-300 rounds) and carbon had found its way deep into the lower receiver. The buffer/buffer tube/action spring had more carbon in it than I knew possible. Overall, you just get more carbon than you're used too... a lot more than when running without the can on. With a shorty barrel, the gas blow back would be even more due to higher pressures at the muzzle. No SBRs in WA state though, so no first hand experience with that. |
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I received my Switch Block yesterday for a 14.5" Carbine length.
Here is my quick review prior to making it to the range for shooting. 1st, Customer service experienced so far is outstanding. I ordered on Tuesday and received it via UPS on Wednesday (helps that I live in same state). They were very polite and thorough with my order. 2nd, the Switch Block seems very well built. The switch is very solid in its operation (very positive click adjustments). 3rd, What I did not know prior to purchase is that it will not work with standard two piece hand guards which need the end cap to hold the hand guards. The gas tube is a straight tube that rotates as you switch from one position to the next. A standard gas tube with a bend in it would not work, therefore you cannot use standard two piece hand guards, only free float type hand guards. You really need a four rail or top rail type set up any way so you can mount a flip up front sight, so no big deal to me that you can’t use standard two piece hand guards. 4th, the Switch Block is quite short in length. So when using on a barrel that had the front sight gas block drilled and pinned, only the back pin hole on the barrel will be covered. I put mine on a Factory Colt 14.5” M4 barrel that was pinned. Just for looks, I might get an aftermarket clap on bayonet lug I have seen sold on the internet to cover the front pin hole. 5th, Installation was very straight forward with easy instructions. In conclusion, all is great, couldn’t be happier with this purchase. I can’t wait to get it out and try it out on the range. I have longed for less back pressure when shooting with my suppressor, plus the idea of potentially cutting the gas off to shot as single shot just makes my day. I have several bolt guns set up for my suppressors and they are so pleasant to shot, now I have the option to use my M16 in the same way and with the flip of a “switch” on the on the Switch Block plus a flip of the selector, I can go from bolt action to full auto!!! How great is that!!!!!!!????? I will add more once I get to shoot. Lgunsmoker |
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excellent, thank you BW Looks like I'd be advised to 'switchblock' my SBR. sadly now the FF rail I just got will be too long. d-oh! Actually... PRI, JP Enterprises and JET Suppressors make low profile, adjustable gas blocks. You don't need to get rid of your rail, just get a different gas block. I got the JET one, it's all titanium, adjusts in the front, rather than the side and is TINY. The switchblock looks awesome though... I'd love to have one. -ZA |
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I have switchblock upper.. and it's heavy (this is not the clamp on version). It is a awesome device and it does what it says, reduces gas blowback. Plus it has one setting where it doesn't allow gas to go back. Now whether it reduces sound, I can't tell. I would test it, but unfortunately I don't live in a state where they let us shoot them.. we can own them, but have to travel out of my state to use them. In my class I forgot to set it to suppressed, and man.. just firing a few hundred rounds push a lot of carbon back into the gun. I couldn't believe how dirty my lower, magazine, BCG were.
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So, will this fit under most rails? If so, would it be adjustable or would I need to remove the rail to adjust? Thanks. I don't think it will fit under any rails. It would make NO sense to have it fit under a rail if you wanted to access the options of the block itself. |
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Good question. I heard Noveske wasn't going to sell pinned version a long long time ago since they were being improperly installed. Maybe they might offer that again, or figure out a solution on how to teach the installer how to properly install it. They sell 10.5 and 12.5 pinned switchblock barrels already... |
| BTW.....the clamp on switchblock doesn't work so well with e Daniel Defense FSP models, you can only get to one clamp screw, i used rocksett on the inside of the switchblock, and tightened the front screw enough so i had to tap the block back into place, then really tightened down the back screw that i could get to. the cobo of one really tight screw and rocksett should hold it, if not i will switch rails. |
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