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Posted: 2/5/2017 11:36:16 PM EDT
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So this is my first time installing a 3 prong flash hider....is the screwdriver the acceptable way of installing them still(if you don't have an old armorers tool)?
What kind of force are we talking to crush a lock washer? Can this job be done in a clamshell upper receiver block? I've never had to close a lock washer on a barrel before either and want to be informed before my first attempt 
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Use barrel blocks... Never use upper receiver vise blocks to install or remove a flash suppressor.
You should also use the fancy wrench that is made for the three prong flash suppressor. Email Pat at [email protected] to get the special wrench which can be seen here. > https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_119/444414_.html |
If you're only installing (not removing) a flash hider with a lock washer, just crank it on hand-tight. The lock washer will keep it tight until you want to remove it. If you have soft hands  , wrap an old shirt around the flash hider before tightening, just don't pinch the cloth between the barrel and the hider.
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15-20 lbs is the recommended spec, far as I know.
That said, I just installed one for myself and 2 for pals the week before last. Used a flat blade screwdriver and used a "calibrated elbow". No issues.Find a driver that fits snug in the throat of the prongs, not out near the tip. |
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If you're only installing (not removing) a flash hider with a lock washer, just crank it on hand-tight. The lock washer will keep it tight until you want to remove it. If you have soft hands , wrap an old shirt around the flash hider before tightening, just don't pinch the cloth between the barrel and the hider.
I personally have the correct wrench but do it just like Stahlgewehr post above more than not. Start tightening it up with a wrench, then shoot it a bunch and it will be so fouled up you will probably near ruin it removing down the road. Where do you reside? Might be easy enough to check hometown in pull down menu of discussion forums and stop by someone close to you and use their wrench, meet a new retro friend etc. Easiest would be wrap in rubber or such and just use some pliers or channel locks once lock washer bottoms by hand tightening if insistent about using a wrench. A sling bump will easily put it within thread torque spec and not scratch finish or over tighten it. Three prong doesn't need indexing like some of them. I usually only use my wrench to straighten out the prongs on those some moron damaged with a screwdriver or worse. |
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Thanks a lot for the all of the replies guys.
I went with stelgewhr(sp?) advice. Turned it down with my hands. Based on the way it felt it should certainly be tight enough. The lock washer is fully flattened as well. I hand tighten the flashiders on my FA subguns and they don't loosen up at all, so I can't see how this won't work...either way I'll check on it every once in a while. |
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Quoted:
If you're only installing (not removing) a flash hider with a lock washer, just crank it on hand-tight. The lock washer will keep it tight until you want to remove it. If you have soft hands , wrap an old shirt around the flash hider before tightening, just don't pinch the cloth between the barrel and the hider.Exactly the way I do it. The split washer is designed to provide tension to keep it from loosening. The peel washer(A2) and the crush washer(A4) need to be torqued but the split washer doesn't necessarily need to be. Just crank it hand tight and it'll be easier to get off if you need to at some point. |
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All of my 3 prong FH are dameged from screwdrivers.
JSE Surplus has just got these wrenches in and it is a very good fit. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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