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Posted: 10/1/2015 11:58:38 AM EDT
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I was wanting to build an M-16, 607 Clone.
BUT the stocks run $400 to $600 and I just didn't want to pay that much for a stock. I got to looking around and was able to find a AIR SOFT copy on the net. I figured I could make it work if I could find one......... The hunt was on.......... Everyone was sold out for over a year. I finally saw one sitting on a table at a gun show and bought it. ( Paid more than I wanted to, BUT...) There are several modifications needed, after trial and error I think I have it figured out. It is not finished, I still have a few things to figure out on it and fab a small part. I went to my parts boxes and started pulling out what would work. This build is not really correct, but I like the look. When I get it done I will furnish pictures of the parts needed and the modification need to the parts This started out to be a carbine to shoot only 22LR. It ended up being for 5.56 or with the 22LR conversion package (I have several) I will be able to shoot 22LR. I just looked at the picture and notice the upper receiver is a early Colt receiver. (not for sale) I will dig out another receiver to use on this project later. Thanks for looking. Ron 
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Great looking build. Thanks for sharing the pics.
I understand the difficulty finding a repro 607 stock assembly. It took me some time until I finally found one made by Total Silence. My 607 build was completed in early 2013. It is a dedicated 22LR configuration with a 607 style moderator permanently attached to the barrel for an overall length not requiring any special NFA stamp. It now has the "shorty" pistol grip as well. It is a very compact weapon and shoots great. All barrel work and front sight smoothing was done by JT. 
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I am thinking of finding another stock and using a C7 upper I have ( it is black).
For the barrel I have a black Govt. style carbine barrel with a reverse flash hider on it and use the triangle hand guards. Maybe use one of my Anderson lowers. These are fun projects to use up some of my spare parts. 
I will not start on this one until after I see how the stock holds up on the first build at the top of the page.. Ron |
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Looks neat.
I would pay TSI's asking price today with a smile on my face if he were is business.. It was a good American made product by a good man. I actually drove to the shop to pick mine up in person. But someone had to go and steal my M16 RR that was a 607. |
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Quoted:
Ron - interested in knowing how it holds up as well. I'm wondering specifically which parts you replaced - did I miss something? (I was perusing this at work and got a phone call. Damn work...) Morg, I am still gathering parts for it. I will put some pictures together if this works............... All the buffer tube parts are replaced. I bought an UTG Model 4 LE compact A2 Stock to use the buffer tube, spring, and buffer. It is snug but starting to loosen up. (I cut down a rifle buffer tube to try and it would work, but not everyone has access to a welder to weld the end piece back on the shortened tube.) That part is going to work. Next is to attach the slide rod to the back of the receiver. I looked at drilling thru the side of the receiver and the rod using a spring pin, but decided there is not enough room on the rod to drill thru. So, The next idea is to drill thru the rear of the receiver in the recessed area under the buffer tube to run a screw thru it into the rod. ( the end of the rod has a metric nut welded in it) This hole needs to be centered and straight. The hole for the screw goes thru the area for the spring and buffer retainer. These will need some modification, but I think this will be ok. ( shorten the spring and the length of the buffer retainer) Cut off about 1/4" off the end of the buffer retainer is all that is needed. Note: Buffer and spring not needed for 22LR conversion, so you could just leave the spring and buffer retainer off. The next parts to locate was a Socket cap screw M-4-07 X 25 MM. There is very little room to work in so a socket cap screw will be needed. A small spacer is need to prevent the rod from going in to far into the back of the receiver. I am still planning to use the rifle for 22LR, but still have the ability to shoot 5.56 Maybe it will work, maybe not. Ron I found some time today to drill the hole and attach the stock. Tightening the cap screw is very slow. I still need to drill and tap the hole for the rear take down pin set screw. There are several video's on how to do it. I have another upper I am going to use on it, but I need to finish building it. I took a couple more pictures, not much different than the others because most of the work is internal. Ron 
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Quoted:
I still need to drill and tap the hole for the rear take down pin set screw. There are several video's on how to do it. I use a 6/32nd Starter Tap and a lot of oil. With this size, there is no real need to drill the Rear Takedown Detent Spring Hole any larger. Just take your time, use a good Tap, Tap Wrench, plenty of oil, and I also keep a can of compressed air to blow the chips out. When your done, use a little Birchwood Casey's Aluminum Black on a Q-tip, and remember to shorted the spring by the length of the Set Screw you use. Good Luck. **** My Rule When Tapping a Receiver is that after I have the Thread Started, I never go more then a 1/4 turn, then back off a 1/2 turn. Then Repeat. That way I don't Twist the Tap. **** |
I bought one of the last 607 stocks from TS, from the second owner of TS. This was in 2011, by the time I had everything ready and filed for the tax stamp. It was 2012. I can't imagine trying to do it now. It was a serious undertaking, my first SBR and the hardest of the retro clones. Glad I did it when I did. |
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Quoted:
I use a 6/32nd Starter Tap and a lot of oil. With this size, there is no real need to drill the Rear Takedown Detent Spring Hole any larger. Just take your time, use a good Tap, Tap Wrench, plenty of oil, and I also keep a can of compressed air to blow the chips out. When your done, use a little Birchwood Casey's Aluminum Black on a Q-tip, and remember to shorted the spring by the length of the Set Screw you use. Good Luck. **** My Rule When Tapping a Receiver is that after I have the Thread Started, I never go more then a 1/4 turn, then back off a 1/2 turn. Then Repeat. That way I don't Twist the Tap. **** I used 4-40 tap and set screws I did not need to drill the hole . I have done it to all of my retro receivers. On my 607 receiver I threaded it deep enough so that with a shortened spring and a set screw I can drill the hole to pin the stock to the receiver with out fighting the spring when trying to install the stock retaining pin. Quoted:
Quoted:
I still need to drill and tap the hole for the rear take down pin set screw. There are several video's on how to do it. I use a 6/32nd Starter Tap and a lot of oil. With this size, there is no real need to drill the Rear Takedown Detent Spring Hole any larger. Just take your time, use a good Tap, Tap Wrench, plenty of oil, and I also keep a can of compressed air to blow the chips out. When your done, use a little Birchwood Casey's Aluminum Black on a Q-tip, and remember to shorted the spring by the length of the Set Screw you use. Good Luck. **** My Rule When Tapping a Receiver is that after I have the Thread Started, I never go more then a 1/4 turn, then back off a 1/2 turn. Then Repeat. That way I don't Twist the Tap. **** I used 4-40 tap and set screws I did not need to drill the hole . I have done it to all of my retro receivers. On my 607 receiver I threaded it deep enough so that with a shortened spring and a set screw I can drill the hole to pin the stock to the receiver with out fighting the spring when trying to install the stock retaining pin. |
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