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Posted: 12/8/2014 12:34:55 PM EDT
I have decided to build a M16A1 from a kit from Sportsman Guide. I would like to build an accurate reproduction. Below is what I what I have so far.
The barrel I have is a barrel from McKay industries. It is a chrome lined A1 barrel that is 1-7 twist. I understand the original twist rate was 1-12. I'm looking at Retroarmworks or ar15barrels.com to intall the FSB. Any other recommendations on a shop that would do quality work and be cost effective? Any recommendations on a place I can purchase taper pins from that won't charge $10 for shipping two pins? Below is the front sight base I will have mounted. 
I don't see any marks on this front sight base and the FSB has flashing on the front and back. Is this correct for a M16A1? I'm looking at ordering a tactical maching 80% lower and sending it to braceman to have the lower reprofiled to look like an a1 and to have engraving done. I was also looking at getting a nodak spud lower but I think the 80% lower will be the most cost effective option to get the engraving done and to create the most accurate reproduction. I think overall I'm pretty happy with the condition of this kit. Picked through 5 different kits and pieced this together. 
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Heck, I'll send you two taper pins if you email me your address. Only request I have, show us that beautiful piece of machinery when it's finished. ......only in "retroland". 
Also OP. If you want "THE" most accurate clone build, I might suggest one of the 80% lowers from NoDak. Theirs has a heavy dose of forge line flash, which is pretty much exactly like a Colt lower off the production line. I've not seen another 80% lower that is correct in this feature. All the others have the forge line machined relatively clean, which is incorrect. |
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John Thomas at www.retroarmsworks.com can install your FSB when you purchase a 1-12 twist barrel. His turn around time and prices are excellent. That's a very nice parts kit also to boot! I'll second John Thomas, although I would keep the 1-7 (which I think you intend, but you're saying you know originals were 1-12) |
| Thank you! Yes I'll be using the 1-7 barrel. I shoot some 75 grain boat tails so the fast twist will come in handy. I only purchased one kit but was able to hand pick between 5 kits. I'll definitely be getting a nodak spud 80% lower. Any advise as to what roll marks were correct for a colt m16a1? Did certain serial numbers coorrespond to a certain date range? |
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Reviewed the following.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_123/401263_USGI_Colt_603_XM16E1_M16A1_upper_buyers_guide_Edition_II.html CH forge codes were from 1974-1982 but I'm unsure if this is a round forging or a square forging. Not sure what I'm looking for. Also found some marks on the front. Not sure if they mean anything for dating the upper receiver. 
Based on the following http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=123&t=417030 It appears the correct rollmark for this upper would be: 
I also believe the FSB with a C and Bell would be the correct FSB. Any ideas on where to buy one? |
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Reviewed the following. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_123/401263_USGI_Colt_603_XM16E1_M16A1_upper_buyers_guide_Edition_II.html CH forge codes were from 1974-1982 but I'm unsure if this is a round forging or a square forging. Not sure what I'm looking for. Also found some marks on the front. Not sure if they mean anything for dating the upper receiver. <a href="http://s431.photobucket.com/user/radian2323/media/IMG_5395_zps1a47767f.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq36/radian2323/IMG_5395_zps1a47767f.jpg</a> ... That's a round forge upper. See the "shadowed" area just to the left of the proof marks? That's the area of difference between a round forge and square forge. 
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