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Posted: 1/17/2014 12:21:17 PM EDT
| hello, has anyone used orion- arms to engrave their retro lower? their name is listed on Nodaks site. |
| I have used Ident Marking for retro type engraving - they do a great job. The only complaint I have ever heard on here is that they don't notify you when they ship your lower back to you. Very easy fix for that - give UPS your email when completing sender info when you ship the receiver to Ident. UPS generates a tracking number and they automatically notify you via email of the tracking number, both going to Ident and when it is returned. |
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Orion was helpful and has a great rep but they wouldn't do the Colt logo, so I went with Ident Mark. They did a great job overall and it was worth the money but my only complaint is the AUTO marking doesn't really match the originals as well as I'd like. Logo, Armalite, Auto, faux sear pin and a + sign (because it was a no + plus blemish lower) was $135 plus shipping but they also have Mil/LE discount too.  |
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Quoted:
Orion might do the Hydramatic markings for you since I can't imagine they'd worry about trademark infringement on a gun by a car company plus with the original nodak markings, it's obvious you're not trying to do a historical fake. seems this is one of those topics that get rehashed every so often.......trademark infringement I know of no example where a company (gun) pressed the issue. Talking about Colt/GM/H&R and their respective logos. Maybe someone else does. IF they were to press the issue though, I doubt that it would have ANYTHING to do with the idea that someone was making a historical fake. To make a fake, you would HAVE TO HAVE the happy switch, at least as far as the clones that we tend to build. I suspect another entity would have a greater interest in the historical fake than the original manufacturers......that being the ATF. The engravers/etchers protect themselves by NOT duplicating the original logos exactly anyway. Idents are not exact copies of the logo, having generally the incorrect pony on the incorrect globe for a particular model logo. If you can't engrave it yourself, and want a more exact logo, Braceman is probably your answer. |
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Quoted: seems this is one of those topics that get rehashed every so often.......trademark infringement I know of no example where a company (gun) pressed the issue. Talking about Colt/GM/H&R and their respective logos. Maybe someone else does. IF they were to press the issue though, I doubt that it would have ANYTHING to do with the idea that someone was making a historical fake. To make a fake, you would HAVE TO HAVE the happy switch, at least as far as the clones that we tend to build. I suspect another entity would have a greater interest in the historical fake than the original manufacturers......that being the ATF. The engravers/etchers protect themselves by NOT duplicating the original logos exactly anyway. Idents are not exact copies of the logo, having generally the incorrect pony on the incorrect globe for a particular model logo. If you can't engrave it yourself, and want a more exact logo, Braceman is probably your answer. Quoted: Quoted: Orion might do the Hydramatic markings for you since I can't imagine they'd worry about trademark infringement on a gun by a car company plus with the original nodak markings, it's obvious you're not trying to do a historical fake. seems this is one of those topics that get rehashed every so often.......trademark infringement I know of no example where a company (gun) pressed the issue. Talking about Colt/GM/H&R and their respective logos. Maybe someone else does. IF they were to press the issue though, I doubt that it would have ANYTHING to do with the idea that someone was making a historical fake. To make a fake, you would HAVE TO HAVE the happy switch, at least as far as the clones that we tend to build. I suspect another entity would have a greater interest in the historical fake than the original manufacturers......that being the ATF. The engravers/etchers protect themselves by NOT duplicating the original logos exactly anyway. Idents are not exact copies of the logo, having generally the incorrect pony on the incorrect globe for a particular model logo. If you can't engrave it yourself, and want a more exact logo, Braceman is probably your answer. Here's a semi finished photo before I broke the trigger guard pin point, so now the lower is with M60joe...thanks to Boywonder for the upper!  |
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Quoted:
I basically said the same thing to no avail and then went with Ident Mark. Maybe Orion would have done the text a little deeper, or Ident Mark would have too if I didn't have the faux sear pin (because it and AUTO look about the same depth and the Armalite markings look Awesome)? Maybe the real truth is Orion has enough SBRs and other engraving that fancy stuff would hamper their production capacity. I have to say this too, my experience with Ident Mark and what I've heard of Orion is they both have relatively fast turnarounds for the kind of work their doing, so it seems they've both figured out the importance of meeting turnaround times to keep customers satisfied. Here's a semi finished photo before I broke the trigger guard pin point, so now the lower is with M60joe...thanks to Boywonder for the upper! http://dl.dropbox.com/s/f66ntshztzc0dn7/CSC1712.jpg Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Orion might do the Hydramatic markings for you since I can't imagine they'd worry about trademark infringement on a gun by a car company plus with the original nodak markings, it's obvious you're not trying to do a historical fake. seems this is one of those topics that get rehashed every so often.......trademark infringement I know of no example where a company (gun) pressed the issue. Talking about Colt/GM/H&R and their respective logos. Maybe someone else does. IF they were to press the issue though, I doubt that it would have ANYTHING to do with the idea that someone was making a historical fake. To make a fake, you would HAVE TO HAVE the happy switch, at least as far as the clones that we tend to build. I suspect another entity would have a greater interest in the historical fake than the original manufacturers......that being the ATF. The engravers/etchers protect themselves by NOT duplicating the original logos exactly anyway. Idents are not exact copies of the logo, having generally the incorrect pony on the incorrect globe for a particular model logo. If you can't engrave it yourself, and want a more exact logo, Braceman is probably your answer. Here's a semi finished photo before I broke the trigger guard pin point, so now the lower is with M60joe...thanks to Boywonder for the upper! http://dl.dropbox.com/s/f66ntshztzc0dn7/CSC1712.jpg Looks good Sand. Bummer on breaking the ear......I get a little nervous every time I install a trigger guard. |
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It is not infringement to make a one off for your self, ......period. (the president says 'period' a lot so I attempt to emulate him)
I usually support IdentMarking when it comes to engraving....I've posted this before, but it do look good, to me at least. 
I have a question....anyone have the dimensions for the bi pod thingy that JT used to make??? Appreciate any assist, Ron |
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Quoted:
Here's a semi finished photo before I broke the trigger guard pin point, so now the lower is with M60joe...thanks to Boywonder for the upper! I will not install the trigger guard pin on my NDS Retro lower,taking a chance on popping one of the ears off. When I install the trigger guard I will use an aluminum nail or rivet cut to length, lightly flattened on one end, and drive it in, touch up with sharpie if needed. This is satisfactory to me as I refer to it a 'field expedient repair' 
Ron |
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for trigger guard roll pins, this little tool makes it so much easier to remove and install roll pins:
http://www.littlecrowgunworks.com/rpp.html 
i've never broken an ear using a punch, hammer and piece of scrap wood to support the ear but this tool is a no brainer. |
| FWIW I take a drill bit the same size as the pin and holding it between my fingers, (sometimes you need pliers but be careful) ream out the hole slightly to get rid of excess anodizing buildup in the hole. IMO this is the main reason people break ears off. I've also gotten out of spec pins in LPKs, so compare them to others you have. Best to have several, and tapered on one end is better. |
| If you have the ability to complete an 80% lower, Braceman is the way to go. He reprofiles the lower to A1 spec's then engraves any roll mark you want. You can also add any serial number to your liking. Of course anodizing is required. You can either have the 80% done any where before you complete it or use an FFL shop afterwards. If you are going the clone route, this is the closest you will get. If not and close enough is all you are looking for, the NoDak lower with added engraving is as good as it gets. |
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Quoted: FWIW I take a drill bit the same size as the pin and holding it between my fingers, (sometimes you need pliers but be careful) ream out the hole slightly to get rid of excess anodizing buildup in the hole. IMO this is the main reason people break ears off. I've also gotten out of spec pins in LPKs, so compare them to others you have. Best to have several, and tapered on one end is better. |
| for the trigger guard pin installation I will also use "feeler gauges" between the ears and guard to make a snug fit........just don't block the pin path. Setting the "downside" ear on a block of wood as suggested, but leaving the guard loose between the ears, does nothing to keep from breaking the "topside" ear. Gotta fill in the clearance between the guard and ears to prevent that. |
| I was also trying to back the pin out because the trigger guard hole was undersized....as mentioned previously. I should have just stopped when I saw things were going south. I've never busted one in about 40 builds but this was the one I would have preferred for it to not happen. |
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how much for m60joe to repair? |
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That sucks man. I feel for ya. I'm sure someone here can fix it. It's easy to get complacent after doing a few - it's the part I always do first, and sweat over the most. I've had trouble with a couple, but never had one break. ALWAYS inspect your roll pins prior to installation. I've found quite a few that were crap, including one that came with a new RRA LPK.  I think they likely have the lowest common denominator assembling these kits, and hey, a roll pin is a roll pin right?  Hang in there.
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