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4/6/2012 2:29:38 PM EDT
How do you take the a2 style gas block off to replace the handguard cap??  They say there are pins to take out and I see the pins but can't get them out.. they almost look like they don't come out. Help please via IM!
4/6/2012 3:08:12 PM EDT
[#1]
Sorry, can't help, but you might get more responses if you post in the A2 forum:



http://www.ar15.com/forums/f_3/127_A2_Builds.html


 
4/6/2012 3:45:34 PM EDT
[#2]
pics would help.  if it's a front sight base you're trying to remove, they probably used taper pins which can be difficult to remove.  the taper pins have a larger head and they remove the same way the brass ejects.
4/6/2012 5:02:41 PM EDT
[#3]
Taper pins, which are often installed with a lot of tension.

Removal is punch on the left side, driving the pins toward the right/starboard side, same direction as ejection as previously mentioned.

Front sight base needs to be supported on a firm surface like a very solid workbench, or on a block on a concrete floor or something like that.

Use a heavy hammer/small sledge and give the pin a firm strike with a good punch.  If you tap-tap-tap with a small hammer, and the pin has a lot of tension on it, you can actually just peen the head of the taper pin and turn it into a rivet.
4/6/2012 6:36:12 PM EDT
[#4]
Your will curse getting them out but it is possible to do it.
4/6/2012 7:06:16 PM EDT
[#5]
A good soaking with a top notch penetrating oil a couple days before removing will also aid in removal.  A couple cotton balls loaded with Kroil or PB Blaster laid on the taper pins is one way of doing it.  I use a clamshell and vice to hold the upper when hammering out pins and an extra set of hands (wife) to hold a little tension to abolish some of the spring effect.  Use Gamma762 method for extraction.  Taper pin will be larger on one side than the other.  Hit small end toward the big end.  Many mfg's today use straight pins (won't matter which direction) and some also install taper pins backwards but as a rule they should be inserted right to left looking down the barrel.  On a true milspec taper pin you can visually see the pin size differentiation.  As stated some pins can cause one to use foul language.  Have found that the soaking is a definate aid and learned this from members here in retroland.  Make accurate hammer strikes and I like a 3lb hammer for this operation personally.  If not damaged you can re-use the pins but new pins are what I recommend on a re-install.  Rarely will zero remain constant when removing a FSB and tight is good to go.  Don't want to cant the FSB.  Good luck.
4/6/2012 7:09:46 PM EDT
[#6]
a hydralic press if you have access to one will also make this job really easy.  some of the early smooth forged FSBs have notoriously hard to remove taper pins as many members here have found out.
4/6/2012 7:37:48 PM EDT
[#7]
They are a bitch.  Just send it to ADCO - they will change your front cap for $25.  It's worth it.
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