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Posted: 2/8/2011 3:01:03 AM EDT
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Heads up 601 stock on GB Not Mine. Needs a little TLC, but if you get it for the right price you can go with VAAR"S fix on it like he did on his handguards.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=214419959 |
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Been up a long time.Been posted here 2 times in the past..Bids have been placed in the past BUT it never reaches reserve.Hi I remember on it was just over $100.Seller is sarco (ocras backwards) and the stock is a piece of junk.I held it in my hands last time I visited.
Thanks for thinking of us Clay 
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I have to say, it's really kind of funny. These 601/602 parts have this reputation of selling for massive amounts of money yet, next to no one is willing to pay massive amounts of money for them. Case in point, the grip that's been on gunstroker for the last year or so now. No one else has bought it so, I have stayed away. If it were worth what it was going for (and if the pictures were better) it would have sold.
They say a fool and his money are soon parted and... I'm doing my best not to be a fool. 
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I have to say, it's really kind of funny. These 601/602 parts have this reputation of selling for massive amounts of money yet, next to no one is willing to pay massive amounts of money for them. Case in point, the grip that's been on gunstroker for the last year or so now. No one else has bought it so, I have stayed away. If it were worth what it was going for (and if the pictures were better) it would have sold. They say a fool and his money are soon parted and... I'm doing my best not to be a fool. Yep, If that's AM180 your talking about; It's hit and miss. Tex got a super mint example from him and mine was rode hard and put up wet. Whenever there's good pics the price seems to be higher. |
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Case in point, the grip that's been on gunstroker for the last year or so now. No one else has bought it so, I have stayed away. If it were worth what it was going for (and if the pictures were better) it would have sold. That one drives me nuts. A starting price of $69.99, and he has a price tag on it in the pictures of $45.00 |
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Case in point, the grip that's been on gunstroker for the last year or so now. No one else has bought it so, I have stayed away. If it were worth what it was going for (and if the pictures were better) it would have sold. That one drives me nuts. A starting price of $69.99, and he has a price tag on it in the pictures of $45.00 When he first started selling them they were $45 and it seemed like no one bought any from him for quite a while. Then suddenly I think 4-5 members here bought grips in quick succession, myself included. After the first 2 sold he started raising the price for each auction. Panic insued and I bought one around the $55 mark before they went nuts. |
| Yep,and according to the buyer,he got it for much less then the price sarco told me when I had it in my hand.Store price was $150,don't know what they had for the reserve for the past few months,but on one auction it went to $110 reserve not met.Buyer got it for a bit less then that. |
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Yep,and according to the buyer,he got it for much less then the price sarco told me when I had it in my hand.Store price was $150,don't know what they had for the reserve for the past few months,but on one auction it went to $110 reserve not met.Buyer got it for a bit less then that. Yep I got it for a bill.Guys please let me know if anyone can come up with a way to fix this stock.Post on here or email me through the site email.Paging JOHN THOMAS 
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I would fill the chip with some kind of epoxy putty and either dye/color the putty to match the brown or, just paint over it with a color matched paint.
Without getting into specialized products, there's a something available at most hardware stores called "Aquamend" that would be very good for this type of application. It dries white so it would definitely need to be colored or painted. |
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I think he and I have it covered.I'm gonna use gray (stronger than the white) marine-tex.I'll thin (sand) out the area around the chip leaving it a bit rough so the marine-tex has something to grab onto,then fill using the marine-tex.I'll coat a buffer tube real well with butchers wax (release agent) and use the tube for a mold.
This sound like a plan to you guys???? 
Opinions welcome. 
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I have to say, it's really kind of funny. These 601/602 parts have this reputation of selling for massive amounts of money yet, next to no one is willing to pay massive amounts of money for them. Case in point, the grip that's been on gunstroker for the last year or so now. No one else has bought it so, I have stayed away. If it were worth what it was going for (and if the pictures were better) it would have sold. They say a fool and his money are soon parted and... I'm doing my best not to be a fool. BTW Octane,am180 (James C.) uses the same pics and descriptions and just uses the "relist until sold" option.He has sold MANY of the pgs over the last 2 years.They used to be $39 then $45,then there was the retro crew feeding frienzy where he sold several to members here and the price went up$59,then $69. Don't let his adds fool ya,he has multiples of most items he sells and just has his auctions automatically re-uped when they close
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So, in theory, these could be selling like hotcakes for $70? I would like to have a brown PG but... if there are better deals to be had... Last time I wrote James,bout 2 months ago I asked if he had any with most, if not all, the paint intact.His reply was no.Most had little paint left,IIRC his words were 60% and less.Shoot him an email and describe what you want,and see if he'll accept an offer.Never hurts to ask,,and he has given me some deals in the past. ETA,recently several I know of that have sold have been in the + - $60 range,but I'm sure there are some that have sold for less,and a couple I know of that went for $75. |
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I think he and I have it covered.I'm gonna use gray (stronger than the white) marine-tex.I'll thin (sand) out the area around the chip leaving it a bit rough so the marine-tex has something to grab onto,then fill using the marine-tex.I'll coat a buffer tube real well with butchers wax (release agent) and use the tube for a mold. This sound like a plan to you guys????
Opinions welcome. http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww111/Robpics/001-5.jpg http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww111/Robpics/002-6.jpg Acraglas comes with everything that you need, including the dye to match. It's pretty easy to use, releases easily with the included release agent and doesn't shrink. Although I haven't tried to sand it, I understand it sands pretty well. Oh, and it's cheap. |
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"MARINE-TEX GRAY is recommended for metal and machinery repairs"!! Heck, sounds strong enough–– I'll definitely be interested in hearing your opinion after trying it. Let us know! Yep,,bottom line is it IS a fiberglass repair kit,,and the specific instructions say the gray can be used on metal/machinery repairs as well.Before I bought it,I did ask around.I want to use it as it is the same product the USMC used for bedding their M70 snipers (remember my most recent post?? Just waiting for the warm weather so I can work in the garage).Besides friends who own boats here on our local lake,turns out 2 plumbers I know (one being the guy I got my SP1 carbine from) have used this on hot water heater tanks with great results. |
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"MARINE-TEX GRAY is recommended for metal and machinery repairs"!! Heck, sounds strong enough–– I'll definitely be interested in hearing your opinion after trying it. Let us know! Yep,,bottom line is it IS a fiberglass repair kit,,and the specific instructions say the gray can be used on metal/machinery repairs as well.Before I bought it,I did ask around.I want to use it as it is the same product the USMC used for bedding their M70 snipers (remember my most recent post?? Just waiting for the warm weather so I can work in the garage).Besides friends who own boats here on our local lake,turns out 2 plumbers I know (one being the guy I got my SP1 carbine from) have used this on hot water heater tanks with great results. Sounds like something handy to have around the workshop. Does it indicate what kind of shelf life it has? I'd think a carton that size might last a while. |
| Gunner,there is NO shelf life indicated.It is a 2 part mix.One is in a small can like a paint can (need screw driver to pry open),other part is in a glass jar with metal screw lid.This is the larger set,14 ounce,,,there is also a 2 oz set as well. Instructions show there is a 10% margin of error for mixing,so you don't need to get it 100% perfect. Less catalyst would be prefered,excessive may prevent proper hardening.Also states it may be applied up to 1-1 1/2 inch thick on vertical and overhead surfaces.Hardens in 2-3 hours at 72 degrees,full cure 18-24 at same temp which is why I don't want to work in the garage. |
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I think he and I have it covered.I'm gonna use gray (stronger than the white) marine-tex.I'll thin (sand) out the area around the chip leaving it a bit rough so the marine-tex has something to grab onto,then fill using the marine-tex.I'll coat a buffer tube real well with butchers wax (release agent) and use the tube for a mold. This sound like a plan to you guys????
Opinions welcome. http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww111/Robpics/001-5.jpg http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww111/Robpics/002-6.jpg I think I would be inclined to use something other than a real buffer tube - just in case the m-tex decides to eat through the wax and stick anyway. Maybe a plastic pipe with paper or tape wraped around to build it up to the proper diameter, |
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I think he and I have it covered.I'm gonna use gray (stronger than the white) marine-tex.I'll thin (sand) out the area around the chip leaving it a bit rough so the marine-tex has something to grab onto,then fill using the marine-tex.I'll coat a buffer tube real well with butchers wax (release agent) and use the tube for a mold. This sound like a plan to you guys????
Opinions welcome. http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww111/Robpics/001-5.jpg http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww111/Robpics/002-6.jpg I think I would be inclined to use something other than a real buffer tube - just in case the m-tex decides to eat through the wax and stick anyway. Maybe a plastic pipe with paper or tape wraped around to build it up to the proper diameter, Hummmm,good point to ponder Shrike,,I believe a fone call to the company is in order. |
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I think he and I have it covered.I'm gonna use gray (stronger than the white) marine-tex.I'll thin (sand) out the area around the chip leaving it a bit rough so the marine-tex has something to grab onto,then fill using the marine-tex.I'll coat a buffer tube real well with butchers wax (release agent) and use the tube for a mold. This sound like a plan to you guys????
Opinions welcome. http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww111/Robpics/001-5.jpg http://i711.photobucket.com/albums/ww111/Robpics/002-6.jpg Acraglas comes with everything that you need, including the dye to match. It's pretty easy to use, releases easily with the included release agent and doesn't shrink. Although I haven't tried to sand it, I understand it sands pretty well. Oh, and it's cheap. +1 for Acraglas!!! I repaired a couple UGLY chips on a pair of otherwise beautiful no-hole HGs with the stuff. You can't even tell where the damage was. The only potential problem may be finding the right amount of brown dye to use, not too dark, not too light. But if you plan on painting it back green, then its not a problem. Also, using a nice new shiny black buffer tube (with the release agent) for a mold is an excellent idea. I like the release Brownell's sells in the spray can. I wouldn't even sand the chip, well maybe just the outer edge. Just blast it with brake cleaner to remove any oil that may have soaked into the fiberglass. 
BTW: About AM180, Nice guy, I haven't bought any "big" items from him, but he always has that one little thing I can't seem to find anywhere else! |
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