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Posted: 9/27/2010 6:00:26 PM EDT
| Has anyone who has built a 607 ever removed the stock and noticed any corrosion due to dissimilar metals? I figure that if the steel rod is parked, the aluminum receiver is properly anodized, and there is a sufficient coating of oil, there should be enough of a barrier between the two metals to keep it at bay. I know there are plenty of steel parts touching the aluminum parts of an AR15, and they rarely corrode. The big difference is that it's one of those nice, cozy nooks that corrosion always seems to pop up in. I'm just kind of curious. |
| Well,I sent my my65pan metal/aluminum parts to Victor and had them anodized/parkerized.When I got them back I put a very light coat of grease on the solid rod part of the stock.But that's all I did.I've only had it now for about a month so I can't give a "long term" report,just lettin you know what I did for my own peace of mind. |
| Dab of no-oxidation grease as stated above if really worried, and for peace of mind. Have never really seen much galvanic action or electrolysis in dealing with guns, especially coated parts. We do use high temp grease on upper to barrel assembly to prevent galling. The magnesium and zinc coatings used on gun parts are less noble and tend to divert the attack of anodic dissolution (corrosion) to themselves, which is why these coatings are used in the first place. In worse case scenario aluminum coated part may show a small amount of pitting over a very long period of time. Wouldn't recommend soaking it in salt water but anything is possible. Sorry I don't have a 607. Do have a journeyman plumbing license and have worked as a DC power specialist (real big batteries) for a few years. |
| Been a few years since I have been active in the 607 game, but I would think no. As you mentioned, there are plenty of steel parts in contact with the receiver. Take down pins, springs, hammer and trigger pins, selector.... Anyway, I think the deal is that if you think it could rust, put some WD40 or something on it. |
| I've had mine apart a few times and haven't seen any galvanic reaction going on. I did however have a television that quit because of a dissimilar metal reaction once, so I know it can happen. on a side note, I did have a friend of mine take the 607 bump fire video for me this weekend but I used my cell phone because I forgot my camera, it turned out way crappy so I'll have to do it over. |
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Quoted:
Well,I sent my my65pan metal/aluminum parts to Victor and had them anodized/parkerized.When I got them back I put a very light coat of grease on the solid rod part of the stock.But that's all I did.I've only had it now for about a month so I can't give a "long term" report,just lettin you know what I did for my own peace of mind. Wouldn't hurt to put a little lube where the locking tube rotates in the buttplate either. 
Edit: The only area I would be concerned about corrosion is the detent ball and spring rusting in the locking rod if it got soaked and wasn't disassembled, cleaned out, and oiled. |
| Gentlemen, thank you for your responses. Again, It was less of a concern, and more of a curiosity issue. The reason I got to thinking about it is that I just pulled the ramp off of "my" Chinook the other day. Hidden down deep inside was quite a bit of corrosion and lots of "Chinook Cheese." The technical name for "Chinook Cheese" is fretting corrosion. The stuff is tremendously common on aluminum aircraft. Again, Thank you all |
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