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Posted: 9/29/2014 2:34:41 AM EDT
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Hi,
I have an M&P10 and would like to make some mods to make it lighter, more accurate and a softer shooter (I know .308 is soft, but the wife might shoot it too…  )
I was thinking about an ace skeleton stock (I love those), carbon fiber 12" or 15" hand guard and muzzle brake. Any ideas, particularly with regards to the stock and the hand guard will be appreciated. I know that is supposedly DPMS low profile compatible but not sure what's out there and if anybody has done that mod. By the way, will be upgrading the trigger too. Anyhow, any opinions will greatly appreciated Thanks |
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You can use any AR-15 trigger.
If you go with the ACE Skeleton Stock you'll have to get a spacer for the buffer tube, there is a thread on it on the S&W industry page I went with the MI SS Gen 2 15" handguards with MI gas block and just put on a MI .30 cal flash hider until I upgrade to an AAC 51T muzzle device. Even with the B5 SOPMOD Bravo stock I kept the weight way down and it gives a better cheek rest than the ACE, IMO. It still only recoils slightly harder than 5.56. And yes, it uses the DPMS low compatible handguards. I'm not anti carbon fiber, but I have seen too many carbon fiber mountain bike frames crack to make me trust carbon fiber handguards. The heavy parts of that rifle are the silly stock flash hider and the hunk of metal gas block. pic to follow- Before: 
After: 
Weight: 
I could have saved even more weight by going with a 12" handguard. In retrospect I wish I would have done that because the 15" really is too much rail for that 18" barrel. |
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Nice rifle Bedouin2W.
I used the MI 12" keymod on mine. I'd recommend keeping the stock recoil assembly in this rifle. I also put an adjustable gas block on it and changed to the VLTOR IMod in milspec. If you do change the gas block, be sure to keep the S&W gas tube because while I had it apart, we noted that it was slightly longer than a Noveske midlength gas tube. That tells me the gas port is slightly forward of where it should be on an AR15. .750 gas blocks work perfectly. 
Have fun OP. |
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I went with the 12" SS on mine also. Didn't really want the extra length even with my long arms.
I went with the Magpul CTR to get a tight lock-up but still adjustable. A PWS muzzle brake for recoil (though any decent brake will work). A .750 low pro gas block, any number of which work fine. Larue mount with a Leupold VX6 1-6x 
I did do some extra work for my trigger, I decided I wanted the CMC drop in trigger. With the ambi bolt release it's not drop in, but not too hard either. To mod the CMC housing, pull the ambi release, pull the trigger group. Place the unit in, and mark it where the bolt release fits and note how far down the ambi release fits below the top edge. Drill a hole to match the rounded lower opening you marked, then using a dremel and cut off wheel finish the u shaped cut. Then make a horizontal cut to clear the ambi release. Clean very well and assemble. 
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I have an M&P 10 and have done the mods you are talking about. Well, I went with a Magpul fixed rifle stock instead of an Ace Skeleton, but it requires the same receiver extension/buffer/spring setup. It does make the rifle a bit softer shooting. You will need an A2 RE, and a .308 rifle buffer and spring. Some are suggesting using a spacer in the A2 RE and just using your original buffer and spring, but I wouldn't recommend that. The spacer adds needless weight, and more importantly you won't see any improvement in recoil reduction like you are wanting.
When it comes to free float handguards, I have the Troy 12", but I don't like it. I just took it off another rifle of mine just to have something for the time being. I am going to switch it out with a MI-SS gen 2 12". I also switched out the factory flash hider for a regular A2 birdcage type, and it handled noticeably better. Here is what my rifle looks like: 
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Quoted:
I have an M&P 10 and have done the mods you are talking about. Well, I went with a Magpul fixed rifle stock instead of an Ace Skeleton, but it requires the same receiver extension/buffer/spring setup. It does make the rifle a bit softer shooting. You will need an A2 RE, and a .308 rifle buffer and spring. Some are suggesting using a spacer in the A2 RE and just using your original buffer and spring, but I wouldn't recommend that. The spacer adds needless weight, and more importantly you won't see any improvement in recoil reduction like you are wanting. When it comes to free float handguards, I have the Troy 12", but I don't like it. I just took it off another rifle of mine just to have something for the time being. I am going to switch it out with a MI-SS gen 2 12". I also switched out the factory flash hider for a regular A2 birdcage type, and it handled noticeably better. Here is what my rifle looks like: http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk201/henschman/guns/imagejpg1_zps9ddc6874.jpg I like your M&P10, only thing I would change is the muzzle device. I think I will copy your parts but in black and with a comp. |
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