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Posted: 2/1/2010 4:51:39 PM EDT
| Can you slip the LaRue hand guard over the Noveske Switch Block or do you have to remove the Switch Block first? |
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I'll be using an Adco 11.5 barrel.
I think the SWS stops at the gas block. I'm trying to use a 10.0 handguard that's cut ~1.0 from the 7-8" section to accommodate for the switch block...but still have the front part of it to use for a flip up sight (so no DD FSP). Thanks. |
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I am having a similar dilemma with my Lite Rail 12.0. I think I can install the modified rail and switchblock at the same time. 1. Cut a notch at the top of the rail for the switchblock, enlarge the holes at the bottom for clamp screws. 2. Place SwB inside of rail. 3. Slide rail and SwB over barrel. 4. Tighten rail, tighten switchblock.
At least that is how it works in my mind. |
| Acutally, the more I think of it...with a DD Lite, you can probably have enough room to wiggle the rail around while you screw the switch block down then tighten up the rail. It take some patience and an extra set of hands, but I think you could do it without milling the rail. |
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Quoted:
I am having a similar dilemma with my Lite Rail 12.0. I think I can install the modified rail and switchblock at the same time. 1. Cut a notch at the top of the rail for the switchblock, enlarge the holes at the bottom for clamp screws. 2. Place SwB inside of rail. 3. Slide rail and SwB over barrel. 4. Tighten rail, tighten switchblock. At least that is how it works in my mind. I don't see how this wouldn't work. This is pretty much what you do with the Daniel Defense 12.0 FSP rails and old-style Lite rails + low-profile gas blocks. |
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Quoted:
Me too. I wish they would give us more info on the mount and barrel length needed. Someone said you may need a 12.5" But I think that's with a regualr 2" gas block...maybe with a 11.5 and a 1" gas block it'll work :) From the pics I have seen, it looks like it covers about 4 inches of barrel. I am already planning on milling the end of my rail as I have a 16" barrel and 12" handguard. I am figuring to leave the top rail unmachined, which will leave the front flip up slightly over the suppressor. I figure, if it is going to the machine shop, might as well go for the gusto. Plus, it will be truly one of a kind. Has anyone heard anything from Vltor regarding release date or anything else? Hopefully they will capitalize on the buzz and get these things on the market. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Me too. I wish they would give us more info on the mount and barrel length needed. Someone said you may need a 12.5" But I think that's with a regualr 2" gas block...maybe with a 11.5 and a 1" gas block it'll work :) From the pics I have seen, it looks like it covers about 4 inches of barrel. I am already planning on milling the end of my rail as I have a 16" barrel and 12" handguard. I am figuring to leave the top rail unmachined, which will leave the front flip up slightly over the suppressor. I figure, if it is going to the machine shop, might as well go for the gusto. Plus, it will be truly one of a kind. Has anyone heard anything from Vltor regarding release date or anything else? Hopefully they will capitalize on the buzz and get these things on the market. If you are sending your stuff out, might as well call ADCO and talk to them. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I am having a similar dilemma with my Lite Rail 12.0. I think I can install the modified rail and switchblock at the same time. 1. Cut a notch at the top of the rail for the switchblock, enlarge the holes at the bottom for clamp screws. 2. Place SwB inside of rail. 3. Slide rail and SwB over barrel. 4. Tighten rail, tighten switchblock. At least that is how it works in my mind. I don't see how this wouldn't work. This is pretty much what you do with the Daniel Defense 12.0 FSP rails and old-style Lite rails + low-profile gas blocks. The difference is that the FSP is cut in a way so that the bottom holes line up with the FSP pin holes whereas the switch block is a 1" block that may not lineup to the bottom of the rail. |
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