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Posted: 11/2/2006 12:21:32 PM EDT
| Alrighty. I made a jerk of myself, because I had a brainfart. Sorry. |
I'm thinking the same. I bought 5 Stag lowers earlier this year and didn't have any problems with them. |
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I've thought of and tried all of the above. I've tried LMT, Armalite, and Magpul extensions that I took off of my own personal guns to boot. I even ordered a new Magpul extension because I thought mine might be damaged. Nothing works. It's not like I'm new to this. I built an AR from the ground up the other night using that LMT stock and it was fine. I've put together more ARs that I can remember; I can feel when a receiver extension is going on properly, and when it feels as though it's going to strip threads. Oh yeah, I built all the lowers for my friends' out of that batch...it's not me or my parts. |
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I don't know what to tell you then. But I will say that all 8 of them being defective is pretty much a statistical impossibility when you consider Stag's likely QC percentages, the fact that you are talking about 8 lowers, and that you took two different samples from two diffent times of construction. Maybe you're cursed! |
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You know, you really shouldn't come in here and bash the hell out of a manufacturer and then refuse to share the resolution. You report four bad lowers. The manufacturer then replaces all four at no cost to you. That cost them money. A neutral third party offers to fix them for you for free. That would cost him money. And he had no obligation to do it, but knowing Rish, it sounds like something he'd do. Seems like people have gone the extra mile to help you out here. One bad Stag, sure. Four bad Stags, maybe. Eight in a row, no way. If Stag screwed up, bash away. Tell us so we know the facts. If you screwed up, then its only fair you say so and let Stag off the hook. |
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OK, I'm back guys. I applaud Stag for their service. They took care of the problem. The original lowers were bad, but the new ones are fine. I think I didn't have my assembly mojo turned on because I left them alone and came back, and all was good. I have no idea what the problem was, but things worked out. My concern stemmed from the threads being tighter than I'm used to. I worried that if I forced it, I may strip threads and ruin parts. My plan was to pay Rich to work on them for me, because I love his company and products, but all is good. I'm sorry if I came across as though I was bashing Stag. I was just frustrated, and I think anyone in my shoes would have been. If one could look back at my past posts since Stag's debut on the market, I have done nothing but praise them, which I will continue to do. Once again I apologize for any wrongful commentary towards Stag. We all have a bad day from time to time, and today was mine. 
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I can certainly understand that. Respect! 
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+1 |
Hey all, A good trick for starting threaded components is to press the two items together while turning counter-clockwise. You will often hear/feel an audible click, that's when the two planes line up just right. Right then and there, start turning clockwise ... you'll most likely not be cross-threaded at that point. Try it on something, an old timer showed me the trick.  Mark LaRue www.laruetactical.com P.S. Reverse for left-handed stuff. |
+1 Being somewhat of an "oldtimer" myself, I learned that one back in a previous life as a motorcycle mechanic in the late 60's. Still use it today.  Lonny |
And being a semi-old timer who's left handed, I start out in the "screwed" position, then have to go the other direction for a bit to get "un-screwed", then I can "re-screw" in a nice, natural motion.  I've always done it that way out of habit, even as a kid. Milk jug, soda cap, flash suppressor... whatever. |
Thanks for the honest reply. Welcome to the I feel like a dufus club. Of which I am a founding member. Honesty = inegrity, honor, and bonus points with us- - which is something I wish our politicians could learn! |
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