AR Sponsor
Posted: 3/2/2004 2:52:33 AM EDT
|
Who's doing it these days? Need recommendations. TR |
|
Tree, if you want to use a 9mm or 22 conversion you'll have to. Done properly, there is no external evidence of removal and no damge to the inside of the receiver. I do it to all the rifles that I've built both for myself and others here on the Board. Here's a picture of the left side of a GC receiver. The pin still appears normal but it and the block are gone from the inside. [img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-4/20144/XQBPC-Dsc01246-r.jpg[/img] Kurt is a good recommendation for the work and good people. JpM John/Marksman Police & Shooters Supply Co. of Illinois/FFL since 1978 w/over 46,000 firearms sold to date! 815-218-5164 |
|
Quoted: I need mine removed to install a Jewell/RRA NM trigger group...... prideboss....nice work. Interested in doing one for me? TR Jewell triggers fit in the lower with the sear block still in, I know I have one. According to Rock River you did need to remove the block to install their trigger. Since the RR trigger is all but identical to the Armalite, I find it interesting that the block needs to be removed as I had an Armalite in mine with the block. But, if that is what they say.... |
|
The reason the RR won't fit is b/c the trigger must have some steel relieved form its right side (if I remember correctly) in order to fit with the block. Colt did this so a full-auto trigger couldn't be used in a Sporter. I spoke with RR about this and was going to just modify the trigger myself, but they started talking about destroying the heat treating, etc... so I just sent it back for a refund. I haven't handled an Armalite trigger, but they must relieve the side of the trigger to make it compatible with the steel blocked Sporters. Josh |
| The Armalite triggers used to have an overly long safety tab in the back of the trigger and with the instructions it told of how you had to remove some of it to get it to fit. It took me awhile with a file, but it finally dropped in. I did have other problems with it, but they were not related to the sear block or the safety. One thing I did find out with Colt sear blocks, there were several different sizes and no two were exactly alike as they would vary a bit and in the way they were secured to the lower. This has to drive trigger makers crazy as they have to allow for several different types of blocks in order to get a trigger to fit. What is also interesting about Colt and sear blocks is that they tell you they made them so GI 3 burst of full auto triggers would not fit, but I have never seen a full auto or 3 burst *large* pin trigger. Makes no sense to me. If you can find a decent deal on an Armalite they can be made into a good trigger but their disconnector can give you problems unless they have finally corrected that. That is what gave me problems and Armalite's customer service was a nightmare. |
|
Both the block body and the pins are hardened steel. The pins are blind, and cannot be pushed/driven out. Removal involves either drilling or EDM'ing out the pins, or cutting the block in two and driving the pins out. There's also a hydraulic method that's been documented on the site here before. Drill will require a tight setup to keep the bit from wandering, and a carbide drill bit. All blocks I've seen have a roll pin the back securing the block to the shelf of the receiver, and one, two or three large, hardened pins through the sides of the receiver. The roll pin can be drilled out with HSS - carbide is not required. |
|
Hydraulic method. Disclaimer: I have not tried this method myself, but kept it for future reference. Posted by AJ, 1/10/2001 Before you drop $200 to have somebody cut on and refinish your $800+ receiver to remove the sear block consider this: As an engineer and perfectionist I like to keep my stuff looking factory. I removed the block on both my ARs because I could and they look exactly like they did before except the block is gone. Here is how to do it. 1. Place the receiver in a padded vise 2. Drill a vertical hole in the block(correct size for a #8 machine screw with hex head) 3/8" to 1/2" deep and centered at the intersection of the "L" in COLT (centered over the block pin). 3. Thread the hole with a bottom tap. 4. Fill the hole to the top with Marvel Mystery Oil and start the screw. 5. Slowly tighten the screw and you will notice the pin begin to protrude out of the receiver. 6. When the pin is about 5/16" protruding from the receiver the block should wiggle fore and aft. 7. Grab the block with a pair of vice grips and gently wiggle it while pulling vertically. 8. Once the block is out the roll pin may still be in the receiver. Repeat step 7 if so. 9. Knock the block pin back in flush with the receiver side. DONE..isn't hydraulics just great! Use a carbide tip drill, the block metal is hardened. |
AR Sponsor