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Posted: 3/10/2015 5:07:01 PM EDT
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I just got a new Ar15 build with a NF Lower... of course the trigger is horrible. I bought a set of JP Yellow Springs
to help reduce the weight of the trigger... Well, my gunsmith couldnt get the trigger to work with the JP springs... he said the trigger would not "set"... or lock or something like that. He tried to use the JP trigger spring with the stock spring of the hammer and it still wouldnt work... So, i am wondering has anyone done a trigger "job" to their NF Lowers and had success?? I am really not sure how a trigger job would work on these polymer lowers... Has anyone successfully done a trigger job on the polymer lower? thx. |
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The only way I would do a trigger job in that is put in one of those unitized trigger units.
I have one of those po (er) plastic wonders; mine was just the lower by itself. The other was a complete lower and it had PLASTIC trigger parts. Come on now; if yours has plastic trigger parts are you REALLY going to try a trigger job (of what ever type) on it? |
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If it hasnt been done or its not recommended... then i wouldnt attempt it... i have an extra trigger so if it got screwed up i would
just put in the other one... just hate to buy another trigger. on my last AR i bought an ALG combat trigger and used the JP springs and the trigger was "ok"... not great. i know a drop in would do the trick... i just hate to spend $180 for a trigger... the ding dang gun didnt cost me but $450... and its just gonna be used as a yote killer.... |
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Quoted:
i dont know why the smith couldnt get the springs to work. i have seen many articles and vids on how the JP springs DID work with the polymer lower... maybe i'll try it myself. maybe he didnt try and just took my money. It's most likely this, aside from the lower being manufactured out of polymer, I'm almost positive all the dimensions inside the FCG are the same. I have no idea why you'd have a gunsmith change out the springs on your AR trigger, it's literally a 2 minute job that requires no specialized tools. Look on Youtube, you can probably find hundreds of "how-to" videos. ETA: I'd still reccomend ditching the polymer lower all together and picking up a 7075 forged unit. You can get brand new forged Aluminum lowers for $50. |
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No reason those springs shouldn't work, the poly FCGs use same springs as standard GI group.
I would not do any polishing on a poly trigger group I have two poly lowers, one is a New Frontier w/poly FCG, about three years/2k rounds old. Last summer it started double firing on two different uppers. I ditched the poly FCG and replaced it with a $30 PSA FCG. A shame casue the trigger feel of both polys were actually better than my single stage PSA or single stage RRA triggers. Others have said the same, so that makes me think either your lower is out of spec or there's an issue in your FCG. |
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Quoted: No reason those springs shouldn't work, the poly FCGs use same springs as standard GI group. I would not do any polishing on a poly trigger group I have two poly lowers, one is a New Frontier w/poly FCG, about three years/2k rounds old. Last summer it started double firing on two different uppers. I ditched the poly FCG and replaced it with a $30 PSA FCG. A shame casue the trigger feel of both polys were actually better than my single stage PSA or single stage RRA triggers. Others have said the same, so that makes me think either your lower is out of spec or there's an issue in your FCG. |
| The trigger on my New Frontier lower (bought as a complete lower with collapse butt stock) is the best trigger on any of my AR15s. Light/smooth, crisp, I could not ask for more. Of course it has the polymer FCG. The only downside is that the hammer is thicker than a standard AR, so my .22 lr conversion (Atchrisson II) bolt carrier will not work in it. No big deal, I'll switch out of I really want to use it in it. |
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I watched some vids and tried to put the JP Springs in myself.. the smith was right. it wont fire with the JPs in it.
the hammer wont release. i played with it for hours trying different things and it would not fire. when i had the punch in the trigger and then put the pin.. it would fire. once the pin was put into place it would not fire. seemed awfully strange it would fire until you put the hammer pin in. not sure why. when i removed the upper a 1 inch long spring came flying out of the lower... can somebody tell me where this thing goes? right now the trigger is functioning ok and has a much lighter pull then before. just concerned about this spring and where it goes... thx. |
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Quoted:
I watched some vids and tried to put the JP Springs in myself.. the smith was right. it wont fire with the JPs in it. the hammer wont release. i played with it for hours trying different things and it would not fire. when i had the punch in the trigger and then put the pin.. it would fire. once the pin was put into place it would not fire. seemed awfully strange it would fire until you put the hammer pin in. not sure why. when i removed the upper a 1 inch long spring came flying out of the lower... can somebody tell me where this thing goes? right now the trigger is functioning ok and has a much lighter pull then before. just concerned about this spring and where it goes... thx. 1 inch long spring, the closest spring to 1 inch would be the buffer retainer spring |
| I have a NFA lower with the polymer trigger group, and there isn't a lot of reason to mess with the trigger, unless you're planning on upgrading to a Geissele or Timney trigger. It's one of the smoother "stock" triggers out there because the self-lubricating properties of the polymer. Any milspec or drop-in trigger will fit if you choose to upgrade. But unless you're shooting off the bench with a scope, there's not much point IMO. |
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