AR Sponsor
Posted: 4/11/2014 6:44:04 AM EDT
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Pardon my ignorance but I am fairly new to the AR platform and need some assistance, I currently have this bipod that I switch between several rifles and would like to mount it to my SpikesTactical with M4 double heatshielded round handguards and not sure it can be done and looking for some ideas.
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This should work for you.
http://ergogrips.net/products/rail-systems/ergo-5-slot-polymer-rail-mounting-platform.html |
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This should work for you. http://ergogrips.net/products/rail-systems/ergo-5-slot-polymer-rail-mounting-platform.html http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=93 I see where both of these don't require any mod to the handguard but how do you get under the heatshields mounted inside ? |
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That is a great bipod.
Mounting a bipod on a non-freefloat hand guard will produce a different point of impact every time you mount it, due to upward pressure on the barrel, which will be variable and inconsistent, no matter how hard you try to make it the same. It might be better to free float the barrel if you want consistent results. |
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That is a great bipod. Mounting a bipod on a non-freefloat hand guard will produce a different point of impact every time you mount it, due to upward pressure on the barrel, which will be variable and inconsistent, no matter how hard you try to make it the same. It might be better to free float the barrel if you want consistent results. Or more optimistically you can expect POI to be a little different session to session, but if the shooter is consistent with bipod pressure it's far far better than the alternative (no bipod?). Now if your chosen plastic handguard bipod mount costs +$100 or more, then just buy a better handguard. |
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That is a great bipod. Mounting a bipod on a non-freefloat hand guard will produce a different point of impact every time you mount it, due to upward pressure on the barrel, which will be variable and inconsistent, no matter how hard you try to make it the same. It might be better to free float the barrel if you want consistent results. I will have to show my ignorance again, I know it will affect POI since it's not free floated so the question is how hard to change the handguard, I have had the M4 one off by pushing down that dam delta ring I think it's called and had a hell of a time getting it back on without that handguard tool but would like to install one so if that means buying a new freefloat tube so be it I just don't have any special tools to put one on if needed. Side note : I have a Harris on my M1A Scout and it does affect group size but can usually hold a 2" group at 100 off of the bipod. |
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There are several two-piece free floating hand guards on the market that attach to the standard barrel nut. The only one I know of that allows you to keep the Delta ring is the Daniel Defense Omega.
The others will require removal of the delta ring parts. I know you don't have the specialized tools to remove the delta ring but it can be done with a dremel cut off wheel. Manufacturers include Midwest Industries, Troy, Samson, and Centurion Arms. Here's an example of a carbine model from Midwest Industries: http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Midwest-Industries-MCTAR-20G2-p/mctar-20g2.htm |
This is my Spikes Tactical 16" carbine upper with Daniel Defense Modular Float Rail (MFR) 12.0. This one does require replacing the stock barrel nut with a proptietary one suppled (with wrench included) from DD. You will need an armorer's wrench and upper block to do this, or your local gunsmith can do it for you in about 15 minutes. You can install 3" mini rails where needed and only where needed. Very strong and solid. You can use a bipod, vertical grip or any other mounted accessory with confidence that that your POI will not shift.
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Really don'y want to rely on a gun smith to put on a handguard so maybe I need to start collecting some basic tools to work on this, I mean I have some specialiazed tools for my M1A so I will look in the maint. secton to see what I should have.
I currently have a pretty tall tool box that is very full and I know I have a full set of steel punches but no pin punches etc... and I do have a small ball pein hammer but no brass hammer and I surly don't have any wrenches that are made for the AR so I have to ask and I will look is there someone that sell a basic tool kit that will have what I need and I have found some but like the one from Wheeler does not get good reviews and I would rather buy once/cry onece but they don't need to be professional Armorers tools that will get used everyday. |
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Brownells would be a good place to start to build a group of AR specific tools. I think anyone with a decently complete tool chest is someone not afraid to use them. ARs are a lot more friendly for us "tinker" or semi-gunsmith types than other firearms. For the casual user who wants to service or modify his own AR, the list is pretty short.
Get a good AR manual or use the resources here. Get a decent AR Armorer's Wrench. It does not need to be professional grade, but the barrel nut and castle nut parts should be decently constructed. You'll need a good upper and lower vice block (upper is most important) Also, obviously, a strong medium to large bench vice. Harbor Freight is fine for that, if you don't already have one. A set of roll pin punches. A torque wrench for setting the barrel nut. Some would suggest a barrel vice block, too, but I've had good luck with the Brownells upper vice block and being patient. You probably have everything else in your tool box. |
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Brownells would be a good place to start to build a group of AR specific tools. I think anyone with a decently complete tool chest is someone not afraid to use them. ARs are a lot more friendly for us "tinker" or semi-gunsmith types than other firearms. For the casual user who wants to service or modify his own AR, the list is pretty short. Get a good AR manual or use the resources here. Get a decent AR Armorer's Wrench. It does not need to be professional grade, but the barrel nut and castle nut parts should be decently constructed. You'll need a good upper and lower vice block (upper is most important) Also, obviously, a strong medium to large bench vice. Harbor Freight is fine for that, if you don't already have one. A set of roll pin punches. A torque wrench for setting the barrel nut. Some would suggest a barrel vice block, too, but I've had good luck with the Brownells upper vice block and being patient. You probably have everything else in your tool box. Thanks !! |
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you can buy a magpul 11 slot rail section and attach to your plastic stock handguard, maybe file a little depends on fit, but it works fine and cheap imho if you use bipod, free float won't improve your accuracy Can you explain no improvement in accuracy by free floating |
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Can you explain no improvement in accuracy by free floating Quoted:
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you can buy a magpul 11 slot rail section and attach to your plastic stock handguard, maybe file a little depends on fit, but it works fine and cheap imho if you use bipod, free float won't improve your accuracy Can you explain no improvement in accuracy by free floating Yes, me too. I'm interested in the explanation, as that was NOT my experience with a non-free float rail and a Harris bipod, unless 6 inch variation in point of impact at 100 yards with bipod on and off is considered accurate. |
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Yes, me too. I'm interested in the explanation, as that was NOT my experience with a non-free float rail and a Harris bipod, unless 6 inch variation in point of impact at 100 yards with bipod on and off is considered accurate. Quoted:
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you can buy a magpul 11 slot rail section and attach to your plastic stock handguard, maybe file a little depends on fit, but it works fine and cheap imho if you use bipod, free float won't improve your accuracy Can you explain no improvement in accuracy by free floating Yes, me too. I'm interested in the explanation, as that was NOT my experience with a non-free float rail and a Harris bipod, unless 6 inch variation in point of impact at 100 yards with bipod on and off is considered accurate. in this thread there are some discussion, again it's just my view, some people obviously may not agree, do your own thinking and experiment and draw your own conclusion, don't just follow whatever others said http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/643064_Precision_mid_range_AR_on_a_budget_.html imho the key to accuracy is consistency, if you shoot target exactly the same way as you zero, you should hit the same POI (if ammo performs, which is a big IF in consistency) so, if you use bipod, to zero, and to shoot target, i don't see any reason to free float, since your set up and points of contact are the same, whatever the flex of barrel (if any) will be the same but, if you shoot off hand with sling pulling all at different angles with different forces at different times, then yeah, FF might help you, but imho FF is overrated. try using consistent support, don't pull sling, given ammo's inconsistency to begin with, i don't think FF will make much difference |
Panther...for $29.95 try a Magpul hand guard http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG440/184 and add a $5.95 5 slot rail http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG406/103  Not the most expensive solution but practical.
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