AR Sponsor
Posted: 12/5/2013 2:43:45 PM EDT
| I would be disappointed with the top BCG to be honest. It's just a lesser job than a properly staked key. Although it will likely be OK I prefer to have a solid stake with a slight overhang on top of the screws like the bottom BCG. I'm curious to know who manufactured the top one. |
|
Quoted:
Top one is marginal, but probably OK, given the quality of your pictures. If it makes you sleep better, do a touch up yourself. Hammer, shorty flat blade screwdriver, block of wood, tap tap you're done. Lots of posts on the subject, Google is your friend. Quoted:
Top one is marginal, but probably OK, given the quality of your pictures. If it makes you sleep better, do a touch up yourself. Hammer, shorty flat blade screwdriver, block of wood, tap tap you're done. Lots of posts on the subject, Google is your friend. Quoted:
I would be disappointed with the top BCG to be honest. It's just a lesser job than a properly staked key. Although it will likely be OK I prefer to have a solid stake with a slight overhang on top of the screws like the bottom BCG. I'm curious to know who manufactured the top one. Thanks for the responses guys, although the poll results are a little mixed. I knew I shouldn't have put Pie as an option  Believe it or not, both BCGs are from the same manufacturer a year and a half apart. I don't want to give out the name at this point in case I decide to resolve it with the manufacturer. I think I may try doing it myself as recommended. I'll have to google some guides and may go with the screwdriver as mentioned. I kinda hate to do it myself though because I'll always be afraid I did it wrong and it it's going to blow up in my face. Guess I'll just have to decide.
|
|
Well Klint, I'm on the iPad the ol lady won, and the top pic is blurry.
Staking is not a black art, and the top one is not the best tier one example. But, both screws seem to have enough, front is better than the back. The displaced metal should engage the ribbed sides of the cap screw, not just the round/flat side edge. |
| This whole judging staking by eye thing is absurd, the point of staking according to the manual is to cause the screws to require over 55 or 58 inlbs of torque to loosen, so the only way to KNOW is to take a torque screw wrench and see if they will spin out at that calibrated torque. If they don't, no matter how good/bad the staking looks IT'S GOOD. Also there's an upper bound of like 100 something inlbs so don't fucking weld the screws to the key with physical displacement of metal. |
|
Quoted:
Thanks for the responses guys, although the poll results are a little mixed. I knew I shouldn't have put Pie as an option Believe it or not, both BCGs are from the same manufacturer a year and a half apart. I don't want to give out the name at this point in case I decide to resolve it with the manufacturer. I think I may try doing it myself as recommended. I'll have to google some guides and may go with the screwdriver as mentioned. I kinda hate to do it myself though because I'll always be afraid I did it wrong and it it's going to blow up in my face. Guess I'll just have to decide.
Quoted:
Quoted:
Top one is marginal, but probably OK, given the quality of your pictures. If it makes you sleep better, do a touch up yourself. Hammer, shorty flat blade screwdriver, block of wood, tap tap you're done. Lots of posts on the subject, Google is your friend. Quoted:
I would be disappointed with the top BCG to be honest. It's just a lesser job than a properly staked key. Although it will likely be OK I prefer to have a solid stake with a slight overhang on top of the screws like the bottom BCG. I'm curious to know who manufactured the top one. Thanks for the responses guys, although the poll results are a little mixed. I knew I shouldn't have put Pie as an option Believe it or not, both BCGs are from the same manufacturer a year and a half apart. I don't want to give out the name at this point in case I decide to resolve it with the manufacturer. I think I may try doing it myself as recommended. I'll have to google some guides and may go with the screwdriver as mentioned. I kinda hate to do it myself though because I'll always be afraid I did it wrong and it it's going to blow up in my face. Guess I'll just have to decide.
Displacing a little metal is not going to make your AR blow up in your face. Come on....MAN UP!!! |
| The purpose of a good staking is to displace metal into the knurled sides of the fasteners...personally I would call those overstaked...you dont have to get crazy its more important for the fasteners to be properly tourqed and permatex gasket sealer for the key to carrier contact all thats required is a little metal displacement as aprt of the whole process. |
|
Quoted:
Staking doesn't have to LOOK a certain way. It has to DO a certain thing. Very well said! 1. Gas key and carrier need to be prepped correctly. 2. Correct adhesive needs to me applied. 3. Correct torque needs to me applied. *If those steps are done correctly, staking isn't even necessary. I'd be more concerned about those 3 steps being done correctly then how the staking looks. I have personally replaced numerous gas keys over the years. I have come up with my own(I'm sure someone has down this before me) staking method requiring only a punch and a hammer without having to try and strike the key at a weird angle. It does not stretch threads or whatever the naysayer lemmings have to say about it. I have run the shit out of them with zero failures. YMMV. 
|
|
Quoted:
Very well said! 1. Gas key and carrier need to be prepped correctly. 2. Correct adhesive needs to me applied. 3. Correct torque needs to me applied. *If those steps are done correctly, staking isn't even necessary. I'd be more concerned about those 3 steps being done correctly then how the staking looks. I have personally replaced numerous gas keys over the years. I have come up with my own(I'm sure someone has down this before me) staking method requiring only a punch and a hammer without having to try and strike the key at a weird angle. It does not stretch threads or whatever the naysayer lemmings have to say about it. I have run the shit out of them with zero failures. YMMV. 
Quoted:
Quoted:
Staking doesn't have to LOOK a certain way. It has to DO a certain thing. Very well said! 1. Gas key and carrier need to be prepped correctly. 2. Correct adhesive needs to me applied. 3. Correct torque needs to me applied. *If those steps are done correctly, staking isn't even necessary. I'd be more concerned about those 3 steps being done correctly then how the staking looks. I have personally replaced numerous gas keys over the years. I have come up with my own(I'm sure someone has down this before me) staking method requiring only a punch and a hammer without having to try and strike the key at a weird angle. It does not stretch threads or whatever the naysayer lemmings have to say about it. I have run the shit out of them with zero failures. YMMV.
Military Field Staking Method: 
|
|
Quoted:
The purpose of a good staking is to displace metal into the knurled sides of the fasteners...personally I would call those overstaked...you dont have to get crazy its more important for the fasteners to be properly tourqed and permatex gasket sealer for the key to carrier contact all thats required is a little metal displacement as aprt of the whole process. As mentioned above, Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant Liquid is the adhesive called for in the Colt Drawings. |
|
Quoted:
Military Field Staking Method: http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q125/PursuitSS/Postings%20photos/82d40396c141e0ae51450ffc23baa62a.jpg Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Staking doesn't have to LOOK a certain way. It has to DO a certain thing. Very well said! 1. Gas key and carrier need to be prepped correctly. 2. Correct adhesive needs to me applied. 3. Correct torque needs to me applied. *If those steps are done correctly, staking isn't even necessary. I'd be more concerned about those 3 steps being done correctly then how the staking looks. I have personally replaced numerous gas keys over the years. I have come up with my own(I'm sure someone has down this before me) staking method requiring only a punch and a hammer without having to try and strike the key at a weird angle. It does not stretch threads or whatever the naysayer lemmings have to say about it. I have run the shit out of them with zero failures. YMMV. http://area7precision.us/images/bcg04 Military Field Staking Method: http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q125/PursuitSS/Postings%20photos/82d40396c141e0ae51450ffc23baa62a.jpg What are you trying to tell me? |
|
Quoted:
Since the vast majority of people are OK with the staking or really like pie based on my pictures, I suppose I am OK with the staking as well. Since this isn't a flame war, the manufacturer is non other than PSA. Quoted:
Quoted:
both are fine who made these? Since the vast majority of people are OK with the staking or really like pie based on my pictures, I suppose I am OK with the staking as well. Since this isn't a flame war, the manufacturer is non other than PSA. thanks...shoot it with confidence |
AR Sponsor