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Posted: 8/4/2012 8:58:15 AM EDT
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Hi everyone,
I have been on the boards for a while but this is my first thread. I am about to put together my first full build that came about after a "discussion" I had with a buddy. He is a bit of a factory rifle snob (nothing wrong with factory rifles) and was insistent I should just buy a Rock River or Colt. My position was while they are both very good rifles I could build one with as good or better parts and exactly how I wanted for less......and so a bet was born. Conditions: Use all quality parts, magpul furniture like I wanted, flip up buis sights, mpi bolt, and a stainless barrel (I threw this in to up the ante) Total cost: < 700 (excluding tax or shipping) Here is my parts list Spikes Lower 95 local Spikes LPK 64.95 - 30 off = 34.95 joe bobs + gearhog palmetto state mil spec extension 15 EE FDE magpul new take of set (MOE hg, stock, grip, buis, vert grip, 1 pmag) 90 EE Rock River Carbine Buffer and Spring, hg cap, crush washer, dust cover spring & pin 10 local Surplus & Ammo Upper Blackhole Weaponry 16'' poly rifled barrel barrel + upper 209 SAA YHM flip up front sight gas block 35 EE Core 15 billet barrel nut 7.5 Spikes Nickel Boron M16 BCG 210.88 - 20 off code - 40 off gearhog = 150.88 brownells Rock River A2 flash hider, fw assist, spikes gas tube 20.90 gearhog again. Spikes infidel ejection port cover - 8 local I have to say gearhog deals are the best, I got 40 off brownells and 30 off joebobs for free due to referring the deal. Also got a few good local deals that helped out and I ended up with some extra parts through some of the locals deals. I even got free shipping and or no tax on the majority of the items above. the only part that was ever even on a fired rifle was the yhm front site. Everything else was brand new or take off from a brand new rifle TOTAL COST 676.23 = bet won ($50) so essentially I have a $626.23 rifle. 
The pics http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/Guns/DSCF5965.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/Guns/DSCF5972.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/Guns/DSCF5968.jpg Well I'm off to the garage to get this thing assembled, wish me luck and hopefully I'll have a completion pic in an hour or two. |
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Reserved for Update
EDIT: I got about half way through the upper and my brother in law called and needs some help with drywalling: eta: postponed until this afternoon Postponed again but finally together http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/DSCF5973.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/DSCF5975.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/DSCF5977.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/DSCF5979.jpg |
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Nice, building can be less expensive.
I assembled this carbine from used and take off parts from the EE for slightly less than $800, however I had a "spare" Colt BCG, H2 buffer and spring from the parts box already Colt SOCOM barrel $225 Colt lower $400 KAC RAS $100 LMT sight $70 
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Quoted:
Nice, building can be less expensive. I assembled this carbine from used and take off parts from the EE for slightly less than $800, however I had a "spare" Colt BCG, H2 buffer and spring from the parts box already Colt SOCOM barrel $225 Colt lower $400 KAC RAS $100 LMT sight $70 http://i48.tinypic.com/ogfgaq.jpg A Colt lower is or can be $400? I had no idea that a Colt lower costs that much. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Nice, building can be less expensive. I assembled this carbine from used and take off parts from the EE for slightly less than $800, however I had a "spare" Colt BCG, H2 buffer and spring from the parts box already Colt SOCOM barrel $225 Colt lower $400 KAC RAS $100 LMT sight $70 http://i48.tinypic.com/ogfgaq.jpg A Colt lower is or can be $400? I had no idea that a Colt lower costs that much. The only way to get a Colt lower is to buy one that has been taken off a factory rifle. Therefore since they are much more rare and a lot more sought after the price is much higher than a typical lower. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Nice, building can be less expensive. I assembled this carbine from used and take off parts from the EE for slightly less than $800, however I had a "spare" Colt BCG, H2 buffer and spring from the parts box already Colt SOCOM barrel $225 Colt lower $400 KAC RAS $100 LMT sight $70 http://i48.tinypic.com/ogfgaq.jpg A Colt lower is or can be $400? I had no idea that a Colt lower costs that much. Yeah, got it on the EE. A complete Colt lower, stock, extension all for $400 |
Well this weekend didnt go the way I planned, Brother in law's drywall took up all Saturday. I finished it at midnight and then Sunday went to my Father in law's to put some rounds through it at the range we have setup there. My other Brother in law's AC condenser went out in his truck and ate the belt. So after helping him I only got to put 20 rounds through it. But mand does it run good 
The Rifle balances well, a little front heavy as expected for a 16 gov profile. The trigger is surprisingly very good, its extremely smooth and doesn't have much creep and breaks very clean. My only complaint is the pull is a bit heave but +1 for spikes for a great mil spec trigger. my ejection pattern is about 3 o'clock, and out of the 20 fired, 2-3 rounds were 6-10 inches in front of straight to the side. Had 1 FTF but it was a dud round. I am seeing strange brass marks, I'm thinking slightly over gassed so I might try to get a hold of an H buffer. What do you guys think? Notice the brass mark in front of the ejection port, at the base of the ejection ramp and at the tip of the ramp where the should be. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/DSCF5984.jpg Also 1 single mark on the back side of the ramp. http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/DSCF5985.jpg the FTF round http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/DSCF5986.jpg |
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Just Added all the numbers and I had more room to play with than I thought! 676.23!
Quoted:
You may need to add a quarter to the buffer tube. How far back does the bcg come when you pull the charging handle all the back? I just took these with the charging handle all the way back http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/DSCF5990.jpg http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g134/forumrider04sq/DSCF5989.jpg |
| I cleaned the brass marks off and added a quarter to the buffer tube and put some more rounds through it today. It doesn't look like any new marks appeared in from of the ejection port. I am still getting brass marks at the base of the ejection ramp as well as towards the end, is that normal? Most rifle I have seen only have brass marks higher on the ramp. I also had 2 more FTF both times the primer seemed to be fully indented like the pic above. What is going on here??? 3 bad rounds out of 40 seems high? |
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I'll get pics posted some day, but i put together a nice gun for 670.
Bushmaster A2 16" hbar upper Cmmg lower dpms lpk moe grip and the only part that people will scorn me for utg pro carbine buttstock I think it's a nice gun. Krylon paint coming soon.. maybe i'll post pics after that. Also, the upper was sold to me from a guy in NY, so the barrel is not threaded. I'm thinking i'll have my smith put a brake or flash hider on there soon. |
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Quoted: Hi everyone, I have been on the boards for a while but this is my first thread. I am about to put together my first full build that came about after a "discussion" I had with a buddy. He is a bit of a factory rifle snob (nothing wrong with factory rifles) and was insistent I should just buy a Rock River or Colt. My position was while they are both very good rifles I could build one with as good or better parts and exactly how I wanted for less......and so a bet was born. Quoted: I cleaned the brass marks off and added a quarter to the buffer tube and put some more rounds through it today. It doesn't look like any new marks appeared in from of the ejection port. I am still getting brass marks at the base of the ejection ramp as well as towards the end, is that normal? Most rifle I have seen only have brass marks higher on the ramp. I also had 2 more FTF both times the primer seemed to be fully indented like the pic above. What is going on here??? |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Hi everyone, I have been on the boards for a while but this is my first thread. I am about to put together my first full build that came about after a "discussion" I had with a buddy. He is a bit of a factory rifle snob (nothing wrong with factory rifles) and was insistent I should just buy a Rock River or Colt. My position was while they are both very good rifles I could build one with as good or better parts and exactly how I wanted for less......and so a bet was born. Quoted: I cleaned the brass marks off and added a quarter to the buffer tube and put some more rounds through it today. It doesn't look like any new marks appeared in from of the ejection port. I am still getting brass marks at the base of the ejection ramp as well as towards the end, is that normal? Most rifle I have seen only have brass marks higher on the ramp. I also had 2 more FTF both times the primer seemed to be fully indented like the pic above. What is going on here??? Was the price mentioned in the bet supposed to be for a working rifle? If so, I think you lost 
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I don't know about the failure to fire but I can tell you why you have no brass on your case deflector. You can try quarters in the receiver extension but I'll bet you another $50 it's the gas block.
I built a 16" carbine gas upper with a YHM flip sight/gas block about 2 months ago. Severely over gassed. The barrel was one I had laying around and had been previously used with the factory pinned gas block which gave normal ejection, brass on the case deflector, and no signs of being over gassed. But when I ran it with the YHM gas block; 1 o'clock ejection, brass on the rear of the port opening, destroyed gas rings, destroyed charging handle (the latch was steel=heavier than the aluminum charging handle it was pinned into), and mangled empty brass. I thought maybe I got a bad gas block so I went and bought a new one of the same make and model. Same story with that one too. Now I'm running that upper with a PRI fatboy gas tube AND a 9mm buffer and it still cycles harder than it did with the factory gas block (and yes, I can tell the difference just by firing it). Now ejection is at 4 o'clock with brass on the case deflector. However, I'm still getting bright marks on the heads of spent cases and flattened, dimpled primers which could be a head space issue but I doubt it with less than 10k down the pipe and no sign of head separation. It could be the ammo but I don't think federal 55grn FMJ bulk packs from wal-mart are the weak link either. Anyhow, It doesn't sound like your problem is as bad as mine was (granted, your barrel is new and mine isn't) but it may be in your best interest to make sure things are running properly right now as opposed to later when problems may become more obvious. If you're not dead set on keeping the YHM flip sight then you should try a different gas block to start with. If you are dead set on it then try some heavier buffers. If you keep the YHM sight and heavier buffers don't fix the issue then you should try a different/wider/adjustable gas tube. As for the failure to fire, you could swap the upper/lower with those of a an AR15 that you know works well. This may isolate the problem into an upper issue (head space, firing pin, etc.) or a lower issue (hammer spring). Or it could be crap ammo. And for the record, you lost the bet. Hope this helps. 
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Quoted:
I'll get pics posted some day, but i put together a nice gun for 670. Bushmaster A2 16" hbar upper Cmmg lower dpms lpk moe grip and the only part that people will scorn me for utg pro carbine buttstock I think it's a nice gun. Krylon paint coming soon.. maybe i'll post pics after that. Also, the upper was sold to me from a guy in NY, so the barrel is not threaded. I'm thinking i'll have my smith put a brake or flash hider on there soon. You sure do not have a UTG buttstock? I admitted using a Chinese Freefloat handguard on my Sons less than 550.00 assembly and was chastized by some here for doing so. You are a very bad person His works as well as any AR out there. Only around a thousand rounds so far but not one malfunction, accurrate and does everything it is suppose to. This using the dreaded TulAmmo steel case as ammo. Even the Chicom handguard works,imagine that. It did not melt,break in half, fall off or desinigrate as some would think it should. We were patient and bought only a few of the parts new. Some were new takeoff parts or near new at used pricing. The same ones that chastize you for buying a Chinese part for your AR spend 600.00 on a Chinese built Cell phone to get the latest greatest technology. I ignore these types of people and care less what they think. OP, Hope you get the problem figured out and I am sure you will.. His is a mixture of parts from DPMS,CMMG,Rock River,Spikes, Magpul and Aero Precision,Etc. Thanks
Just like Dogs sometimes the Mutts are the best kind
Goodluck getting it going. |
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