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Posted: 11/25/2011 8:09:45 AM EDT
| I'm buying a bolt carrier and key separate and need a bolt. I'm thinking of trying an updated bolt, ie. JP or AR Performance, for longevity, and for more sure operation with steel case ammo. Does anyone have experience with either of these bolts? Is there another company offering them? |
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I have a couple spare JP bolts (9310) that have been function tested. They work just as well as my Colt,FN,Noveske,BCM, etc... bolts work, are touted as longer lasting than Carpenter 158 constructed bolts, but there really is little to prove that statement. The HPT/MP tested mil.spec bolts have proof and are proven daily to work for quite a while.
Statements of longevity are subjective, they may be true- or they may not be true. A 9310 bolt (if done correctly) including beefier and proper heat treat does appear to have potential, but most manufacturers are content to follow the mil.spec. Some companies are offering enhanced bolts (as LMT) that offer improvements that may/may not really ever prove to be worthy. My choice is to go with what is proven, but carry a spare, just in case. Ask the professionals what they use, it'll be most likely Colt, BCM, LMT. |
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I have a Young's Manufacturing National Match Auto BCG and love it. I bought it from WeaponParts.com for under 200$. I am not sure if just their website is down or they are out of the business but I know it say's it is currently not available. I was getting the super lightweight young's manuf bolt carrier/key. I may just go with their complete unit then. I was just going to order from their company website. |
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I have a Young's Manufacturing National Match Auto BCG and love it. I bought it from WeaponParts.com for under 200$. I am not sure if just their website is down or they are out of the business but I know it say's it is currently not available. I was getting the super lightweight young's manuf bolt carrier/key. I may just go with their complete unit then. I was just going to order from their company website. Any particular reason for going with the super lightweight? I'm not putting them down, but you asked about improved BCG units for reliability, this sounds now like you are going in the other direction. Just curious. Super light weight and increased reliability is kind of an oxymoron to me. |
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Order the Young Mfg bolts from this Group Buy going on right now. Can save $$$
Young MFG Group Buy |
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Why doesn't Young just stake their damn gas keys?  >>WHY WE DON'T STAKE OUR GAS KEYS Staking the gas key on the AR-15 and M-16 carrier.
There has been a lot of talk about the pros and cons of staking the gas key on the carrier. Here is our opinion and why Young Manufacturing will not stake keys. We have been making carriers since 1991. The US Mil Spec. assembly drawing requires the carrier key to be staked. Contrary to some popular opinions staking does not “SEAL” the gas key. Staking keeps the screws from backing out Period. If you do not properly torque the screws to 56 inch pounds you will be staking a screw that is loose or one that is over torqued and prone to breakage. We have seen plenty of staked screws that are loose or broken. The Mil Spec. also calls for the gas key bottom surface to be “SEALED” with Permatex gasket sealer. Something no one does to our knowledge. Here is our procedure for installing a gas key. First clean the oil from the gas key and the mating surface on the carrier. Then clean the oil from the screw threads. We use break cleaner for this. Next use a very light coating of Permatex high strength thread locker gel on the bottom of the key. PN 27010. This is much easier to use than the Permatex gasket sealer. It comes in a plastic twist dispenser. Make sure you don’t use so much that it squishes into the gas port hole. The cure rate is 60 minutes. Next coat the screw threads with the same gel. Install the key and torque the screws to 56 inch pounds. Should you decide to remove the key for some reason don’t use the old screws when you put the key back on! You will most likely break them during installation or when you fire the rifle. Go to the local hardware store and buy new 10-32 x ¼” SHCS. If you feel the need to stake the screws spend the money and get one of the staking tools from Brownell that uses a screw type system to swedge the material into the top of the screw. Don’t use a hammer and a punch! You can stretch the thread on the screw and now you have a loose screw that will eventually break if the gun even fires. We will not warrantee a carrier with a staked key no matter who staked it. You will be charged for a new key and any labor required to remove broken screws. Good Shooting! Daniel H Young President |
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I'm buyi....., for longevity, and for more sure operation with steel case ammo. Does anyone have experience with either of these bolts? Is there another company offering them? How long does the bolt normally last? 15K is a number I see touted around quite often. |
Thanks for the link. I have been wanting a NM BCG and that just gave me a good reason to buy one.  Quoted: Order the Young Mfg bolts from this Group Buy going on right now. Can save $$$ Young MFG Group Buy |
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Quoted: I'm buying a bolt carrier and key separate and need a bolt. I'm thinking of trying an updated bolt, ie. JP or AR Performance, for longevity, and for more sure operation with steel case ammo. Does anyone have experience with either of these bolts? Is there another company offering them? You could go with the Stress-Levelled bolt from Armalite. |
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I have three of the original JP high performance bolts made by LWD, back before they were the exact same geometry as the standard bolt that they are now at JP. Being the same geometry as the standard bolt with the same machining, I see no advantage of 9310 over Carpenter 158 in the current JP offering. Buy a bolt from Bravo Co or Rainier Arms and be done with it. FWIW, at least the new BCM bolt I got in the mail yesterday was stamped "CM" - that's CMT. Rainier Arms' bolts (and a whole hell of a lot of others I've seen) likely come from the same place. Most of the last "MP HP" bolts I've bought from PKFirearms are also CMT.
A Young bolt is fine but it would certainly NOT be an enhancement over one from BCM. I do not understand you wanting a lightweight BCG - unless this is a race gun specifically tuned to operate with it gas system/ammo/spring/BCG then you most definitely need to stick with a standard M16 BCG or AR15 BCG. My $0.02. |
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I have three of the original JP high performance bolts made by LWD, back before they were the exact same geometry as the standard bolt that they are now at JP. Being the same geometry as the standard bolt with the same machining, I see no advantage of 9310 over Carpenter 158 in the current JP offering. Buy a bolt from Bravo Co or Rainier Arms and be done with it. FWIW, at least the new BCM bolt I got in the mail yesterday was stamped "CM" - that's CMT. Rainier Arms' bolts (and a whole hell of a lot of others I've seen) likely come from the same place. Most of the last "MP HP" bolts I've bought from PKFirearms are also CMT. A Young bolt is fine but it would certainly NOT be an enhancement over one from BCM. I do not understand you wanting a lightweight BCG - unless this is a race gun specifically tuned to operate with it gas system/ammo/spring/BCG then you most definitely need to stick with a standard M16 BCG or AR15 BCG. My $0.02. I'd like to use it for 3 gun one day, but in the meantime will probably buy a lot of steel case to run through it. Its going to run carbine gas with an adjustable gas cylinder. We'll see. |
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How much more does an upgraded bolt cost and how much longer do they really last? I've got a Olympic Arms bolt with over 10,000 rounds on it. I keep wondering when its going to throw a lug or crack at the cam pin hole. I've got a couple spare used bolts from Bushy, Eagle Arms and Oly tear downs as well as a new spare White Oak bolt.
If I were buying a new or spare bolt today I would probably buy Armalite or LMT for the relief cut lugs and low cost. |
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