AR Sponsor
Posted: 4/21/2011 12:13:14 PM EDT
|
Took My much ignored "SPRish" rifle out yesterday to try some different ammo. These are 50 yard 10 shot groups left to hand-loads from a traditional reloader, Reloads from a Dillon, and XM193. All 55grn I even thought WTF and shot the lake city twice! Warmed up with five rounds in the berm and waited 2-3 minutes between groups.  Afterwards I just had some fun nailing a 100 yard and 275 yard gong. I also spent some time getting used to the 1x weaver at 10 and 25 yard double taps (not as good as an EOTech but not horrendous either. The thing that gets me is the trigger. After shooting and trying to be precise for about a hundred rounds the trigger finger was TIRED. I have never been an advocate of anything but a stock trigger on a "combat" gun. The thing is I'm not sure I can take out the safety lever to change the trigger. What are my options. |
|
quality ammo makes a good deal of difference. You are what you eat fit's firearms to a TEE!
most 55 gr. ball ammo has an open base bullet so you can't expect much. Even a novice reloader can tailor loads to his particular rifle that will out shoot quality factory ammo that might cost a dollar a round. If a person shops around on the used market he can be set up for $100.00 or less in a single stage press cranking out quality loads! |
| Sorry, I was at work and couldn't see the photos. I would cut a small wood block that you could slide underneath the selector and use to brace the inside wall of the reciever against the other side. Then rotate the selector to 45 degrees and punch it out. That should keep the wall from cracking out. |
|
Are you sure you can't get the trigger assembly in and out without removing the safety? I could on mine. it took a little wiggling but it worked. I did a bunch of tuning on my trigger with a cav arms receiver and never took the safety out after the initial assemly. I remember what a pain that was to get in so I understand the hesitancy to remove it.
On my CavArms MkII the main things i did were add a little clearance for my trigger so it wasn't binding on the receiver at all. Then buffed the pins where they go through the trigger and hammer. I used JP yellow springs (but I suggest buying the midweights as well, it's hit or miss as to whether a particular setup will be reliable with certain ammo and the yellows on the hammer) and very carefully trued and buffed the contact points for the hammer and trigger. Basically, if it touched anything else, it got made mirror smooth. How well you can do that last part depends on your hands, eyes, tools and patience. I make knives, so I had a bunch of tools designed for similar tasks and the patience to mess with it. You won't get the best possible trigger, but you can get a MASSIVE improvement over the stock situation even with the mid weight springs. If you can use yellows it's worth it though. I have one done with the red spring on the hammer and one with yellows on both and there's a world of difference in feel. there's just so much you can do with the stock components and the lighter hammer spring hides a lot of the flaws. Unfortunately the other fire control group doesn't work reliably with my 22 conversion with the yellow hammer spring. It's 100% with center fire ammo, but the conversion has a spring loaded firing pin and with some ammo it has issues. I decided it wasn't worth the hassle. The CavArms receiver is the one that has no issues. Very clean and smooth trigger pull, perfect for precision shooting. |
|
Quoted:
quality ammo makes a good deal of difference. You are what you eat fit's firearms to a TEE! most 55 gr. ball ammo has an open base bullet so you can't expect much. Even a novice reloader can tailor loads to his particular rifle that will out shoot quality factory ammo that might cost a dollar a round. If a person shops around on the used market he can be set up for $100.00 or less in a single stage press cranking out quality loads! true that......very well said |
|
a good 2 stage trig makes all the difference.once I installed my 1st one on my 1st a2 15yrs ago i never looked back.
all 5 of my ar,s have 2 stage trigs. imo....bushmaster adjustable 2 stage works for me.the 2 things i like about it is the 2nd stage pull rate and more importantly, the ease of the recycle rate, there is little to no movement on your trigger finger for the bushmaster to recycle......you can keep steady target acquazition with little movement because of the easy/steady recycle rate what works for me....may not for you. according to those pics,,,,,noslers and whatever powder/load charge is working for you |
AR Sponsor