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Posted: 1/31/2010 2:40:20 PM EDT
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I did a search and nothing came up..
I need to take my AAC Blackout mount off one of my barrels. What is the best way to get the Rockset loose that AAC sends with the mount?? I heard boiling but havent tried that.. Thanks |
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I dont even have the blackout off yet.. Did you just wrench on it hard to get it off?? Thanks I had a flash hider with Rocksett. Came off fairly easily. I've heard it is about the same strength as blue Loctite, and so far in my experience, it seems pretty similar. |
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I dont even have the blackout off yet.. Did you just wrench on it hard to get it off?? Thanks I had a flash hider with Rocksett. Came off fairly easily. I've heard it is about the same strength as blue Loctite, and so far in my experience, it seems pretty similar. Not trying to hyjack the thread, but would rockset be suitable for clamp on gas block screws or would red locktight be better ? |
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The methods I have head of (which I have not tried) are:
1. Soak in water (as above) 2. Heat - usually done with a torch 3. Strike it with a hammer. Supposedly it is brittle and fractures easily. Let us know what works, as I have one to remove when I get around to it. |
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I dont even have the blackout off yet.. Did you just wrench on it hard to get it off?? Thanks I had a flash hider with Rocksett. Came off fairly easily. I've heard it is about the same strength as blue Loctite, and so far in my experience, it seems pretty similar. Not trying to hyjack the thread, but would rockset be suitable for clamp on gas block screws or would red locktight be better ? I use it for my gas block screws. Rocksett is provide for suppressor mounts specifically because of its heat resistance. Red loctite breaks down when heated. Also, I've removed the same screws with Rocksett. They came off with about the same amount of force as required by blue Loctite. |
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I had occasion to talk to the people who make rocksett, for another reason a couple of days ago.
When I asked how easy it was to unscrew a rocksetted item I was told all you need is "a little elbow grease". I also saw, posted somewhere, that ADCO says rocksett will break loose at 30 lb ft torque. |
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Rocksett is not that strong. Just use a wrench. I find red loctite 271 much stronger and more heat resistant. How so? I have a compensated Glock pistol I use in competition. The comp is aluminum and heats up very fast. I tried Rocksett first, because it is supposed to be very heat resistant. Within 200 rounds the comp goes loosey goosey and can be unscrewed by hand easily. So I tried 271. After thousands of rounds it was still tight. I ended up taking the comp off to strip the gun all apart. The 271 broke free with a wrench but had a very tenacious grip the entire time coming off. |
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Like I said above, go to Lowes and buy a strap wrench. The Blackout does not have enough flat space to use a wrench withough seriously risking scaring your barrel and the flashhider. A strap wrench and a little strength and it will come off. This is a very good point on the AAC muzzle devices. The flats on them are very narrow. |
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Rocksett is not that strong. Just use a wrench. I find red loctite 271 much stronger and more heat resistant. How so? I have a compensated Glock pistol I use in competition. The comp is aluminum and heats up very fast. I tried Rocksett first, because it is supposed to be very heat resistant. Within 200 rounds the comp goes loosey goosey and can be unscrewed by hand easily. So I tried 271. After thousands of rounds it was still tight. I ended up taking the comp off to strip the gun all apart. The 271 broke free with a wrench but had a very tenacious grip the entire time coming off. Can anyone else comment on their experiences with Rockset vs Red Locktight ? Especially for gas block duty ? Thank's 
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Rocksett is not that strong. Just use a wrench. I find red loctite 271 much stronger and more heat resistant. How so? I have a compensated Glock pistol I use in competition. The comp is aluminum and heats up very fast. I tried Rocksett first, because it is supposed to be very heat resistant. Within 200 rounds the comp goes loosey goosey and can be unscrewed by hand easily. So I tried 271. After thousands of rounds it was still tight. I ended up taking the comp off to strip the gun all apart. The 271 broke free with a wrench but had a very tenacious grip the entire time coming off. Can anyone else comment on their experiences with Rockset vs Red Locktight ? Especially for gas block duty ? Thank's Are you sure it wasn't because of the different expansion rates between the aluminum flash hider and steel barrel? Flexbar advertises that Rocksett resists heat to up to 2000 degrees Fahrenheit. The actual strength of the stuff isn't too terribly high. Loctite advises to heat red loctite to about 500 degrees Fahrenheit to remove it. |
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The methods I have head of (which I have not tried) are: 1. Soak in water (as above) 2. Heat - usually done with a torch 3. Strike it with a hammer. Supposedly it is brittle and fractures easily. Let us know what works, as I have one to remove when I get around to it. I would not try 2 and 3. Rocksett was designed to be more heat resistant which is why it is used on FH esp suppressor mounts but has around the same hold as red loctite. If I were you, I would not strike my FH with a hammer just cause well, would you hit your FH with a hammer hard enought to fracture locktite with all those threads and the crown of the barrel down there? 
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Agree, Same as I've been told/heard. Strength of Blue & holds Higher Temp than Red.
I had a flash hider with Rocksett. Came off fairly easily. I've heard it is about the same strength as blue Loctite, and so far in my experience, it seems pretty similar. |
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Rocksett is not that strong. Just use a wrench. I find red loctite 271 much stronger and more heat resistant. How so? I have a compensated Glock pistol I use in competition. The comp is aluminum and heats up very fast. I tried Rocksett first, because it is supposed to be very heat resistant. Within 200 rounds the comp goes loosey goosey and can be unscrewed by hand easily. So I tried 271. After thousands of rounds it was still tight. I ended up taking the comp off to strip the gun all apart. The 271 broke free with a wrench but had a very tenacious grip the entire time coming off. Can anyone else comment on their experiences with Rockset vs Red Locktight ? Especially for gas block duty ? Thank's I use Rocksett on my gas block screws, because it's extremely heat resistant, but not stronger than it needs to be to keep set screws or muzzle devices from rotating. Just be sure to de-grease the mating surfaces first. I've found red loctite to be a huge pain in the ass to remove. |
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The methods I have head of (which I have not tried) are: 1. Soak in water (as above) 2. Heat - usually done with a torch 3. Strike it with a hammer. Supposedly it is brittle and fractures easily. Let us know what works, as I have one to remove when I get around to it. I would not try 2 and 3. Rocksett was designed to be more heat resistant which is why it is used on FH esp suppressor mounts but has around the same hold as red loctite. If I were you, I would not strike my FH with a hammer just cause well, would you hit your FH with a hammer hard enought to fracture locktite with all those threads and the crown of the barrel down there? 2. is what John Noveske recommended to me. 3. was recommended by someone in the firearms industry (not a manufacturer) on another site. I have no personal experience with any of the 3 methods. |
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Rocksett is not really intended to be a thread locker. It doesn't require much if any additional force to remove something that's been held in place by Rocksett.
All it is designed to do is keep things like flash hiders and suppressor mounts from coming loose under high heat applications where products like loctite would fail. A wrench will work if you've got good flats, otherwise, a strap wrench is all that's needed to remove your mount. |
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I finally got around to removing an AAC FH attached wih Rockset, and I thought I'd provide some feedback regarding what worked.
First, I soaked it in water for 24 hours, but this had no apparent effect. Next, I hit it on the front end hard with a mallet with no effect. I did not try a steel hammer. Next came the strap wrench, which I broke. I then placed a screwdriver in the prongs and bent the screwdriver. I did not have a torch to try heat. Finally, I placed a crowbar in the prongs, applied a great deal of force, and it loosened. To my surprise, the prongs do not appear bent. So, at least in my case, only high torque worked. |
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Many people fail to correctly install the hider in that they don't TOTALLY degrease the threads and contact surfaces on both the barrel and hider. You can also cause problems if you degrease with certain carb cleaners that have dry lube in the solution... You have to have it totally clean and dry.
91% Alcohol works pretty well if you let it dry. |
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