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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Bill Springfield Trigger job (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 12/15/2009 6:42:46 AM EDT
| What does the trigger job consist of? Is it a reworked mil spec trigger, or are parts added? |
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Reworked trigger. He may replace the springs but I can't remember. You can send him your own to modify or he can sell you an already modified trigger. I run two of his 4# triggers and love them. Best trigger deal going if you ask me. Yeah, I want to know what goes into the job, so I can do it at home. I've already polished the trigger face and hammer where it locks in. I want to know what else I can do to improve my trigger. |
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WHen I sent mineto him he did replace the springs. Not sure what else goes into it though. SInce he only charged $35 I didnt bother to ask to many questions especially when you consider all the rave reviews his work gets.
Oh by the way, It is the best deal out there. I am very pleased! |
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He usually puts a spot of weld on the bottom front of the trigger to eliminate slack and he will stone some material from the hammer to reduce creep as well. He also stones the sear and hammer notch surfaces smooth.
Unless you have the trigger jigs and the experience, I wouldn't think it's worth messing with. Bill will give you a very nice 4# trigger for $35.00. If you want 3#, it's $50 and that includes new trigger and hammer springs. I've had him do a bunch of triggers and I'll have him do more. |
I have sent 3 triggers to Bill. I currently have them in 2 of my ARs and the other is in my brothers "Christmas build." I only have one AR left that hasn't been "worked" by Bill Springfield.....the only reason is, because I bought a $200 Timney drop-in BEFORE I knew about Bill Springfield. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't order the Timney. 
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I have sent 3 triggers to Bill. I currently have them in 2 of my ARs and the other is in my brothers "Christmas build." I only have one AR left that hasn't been "worked" by Bill Springfield.....the only reason is, because I bought a $200 Timney drop-in BEFORE I knew about Bill Springfield. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't order the Timney. I was just the opposite. Don't get me wrong, I was very happy with my 3# trigger from Bill, and will probably end up putting it in a different rifle down the road. But I can definitely tell a difference between the 2 triggers, and am very happy with my Timney. You can't go wrong with one of Bill's trigger jobs though. |
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I agree with the others who say he can do it better than you. It's a skill you can't acquire overnight, and you CAN mess up a trigger if you do it wrong.
He usually turns them around in a week and charges only 35 bucks, so there's really no reason to do it yourself. . . |
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I agree with the others who say he can do it better than you. It's a skill you can't acquire overnight, and you CAN mess up a trigger if you do it wrong. He usually turns them around in a week and charges only 35 bucks, so there's really no reason to do it yourself. . . Yeah... but I'm trying to spend no money right now... and I just had to buy a new upper because my A1 sight is broken, and will need a sight for the flat top. I wanted to know what I could do to my own trigger to improve it. I enjoy working on my own stuff. |
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He usually puts a spot of weld on the bottom front of the trigger to eliminate slack and he will stone some material from the hammer to reduce creep as well. He also stones the sear and hammer notch surfaces smooth. Unless you have the trigger jigs and the experience, I wouldn't think it's worth messing with. Bill will give you a very nice 4# trigger for $35.00. If you want 3#, it's $50 and that includes new trigger and hammer springs. I've had him do a bunch of triggers and I'll have him do more. Yep, the spot-weld is the biggest change that he makes. For 35 bucks, I'm not sure why anyone would try to do it themselves, and risk ruining the trigger. He does a nice job on them, and knows what he's doing |
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I have sent 3 triggers to Bill. I currently have them in 2 of my ARs and the other is in my brothers "Christmas build." I only have one AR left that hasn't been "worked" by Bill Springfield.....the only reason is, because I bought a $200 Timney drop-in BEFORE I knew about Bill Springfield. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't order the Timney. I was just the opposite. Don't get me wrong, I was very happy with my 3# trigger from Bill, and will probably end up putting it in a different rifle down the road. But I can definitely tell a difference between the 2 triggers, and am very happy with my Timney. You can't go wrong with one of Bill's trigger jobs though. Don't get me wrong, I love my Timney. It has found a home in my 18" SPR and it's not going anywhere. It is a 3 pound pull that breaks like glass and I fully appreciate how awesome it is. I can definitely tell a difference. However, knowing how good Bill can make a trigger for $35 makes me question the $200 price tag on the Timney. The 3 pound Timney, in my opinion DOES NOT belong in any kind of battle rifle. It is truly at home in a long range or target rifle. The Bill Springfield triggers are awesome 4 pound triggers that are perfect in any type of CQB gun. I am just glad that I have both types of rifles and both triggers, and since I already spent the money on the Timney, I don't have to make that decision now. 
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Johnny Vain,
Since you're asking, here's a different approach to the same result(jacking up the trigger lever) as the Bill Springfield spot weld triggers. For tinkerers, this is better, because it's DYI, and adjustable. Also, look at JP Trigger Springs ($10) for a 3-4# triggerLink |
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I just felt up a Bill Springfield trigger, and I know understand the incredible value of this trigger job. I plan on having both of my triggers done now, plus any other I get.
Seriously, 87GN had a list of "oh" AR accessories, and this ranks right up there as one of those "oh" mods. |
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Caveat emptor. Bill did three for me; two were great, the third was unsafe and illegal (can we say more than one shot for each pull of the trigger?). The last one was very crude and crookedly filed.
If you decide to gamble on one, make damn certain you perform all the safety checks. Moon |
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Remember, the safety selector needs to be assembled into the lower before the trigger can be assembled into the lower. I just built my first lower last week. I sent the trigger group to Springfield before it was ever installed. After I got it back I used the guide posted here to assemble the lower. Couldn't get the selector in. I finally figured it out, but a short note enclosed in the box would have saved me some heartburn. Oh yeah, it feels very nice compared to the 1970's SP1 in the safe. |
| I also sent off three brand new RRA triggers that I just bought and never been installed, to get the 3.5# triggers. I got two back that when I put in the receivers seemed good and relatively the same, the other one seemed to take a bit more pressure to pull the trigger. I decided to get my brother (who doesn't know anything about AR's) and with the three completed lowers he said "why is this one so much harder?" oh FUCK! I then decided to try all three at the range with different uppers before I contacted Mr. Springfield, to my amazement all three were indistinguishable if I hadn't of known which receiver it was. I'm happy as the end result all three receivers seemed the same when shooting the guns, I know it doesn't make sense but the end result is what matters. |
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Caveat emptor. Bill did three for me; two were great, the third was unsafe and illegal (can we say more than one shot for each pull of the trigger?). The last one was very crude and crookedly filed. If you decide to gamble on one, make damn certain you perform all the safety checks. Moon Guess I need to send the rest of mine (12) two at a time, huh? |
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Caveat emptor. Bill did three for me; two were great, the third was unsafe and illegal (can we say more than one shot for each pull of the trigger?). The last one was very crude and crookedly filed. If you decide to gamble on one, make damn certain you perform all the safety checks. Moon When you contacted him about this what did he say? I've sent several triggers to Bill, never a problem. I've talked to him over the phone, hard to believe he wouldn't make this right. |
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If you send three, he gives you a break. Believe it's 10%. Last three I had done came out awesome. Perfect for what they are intended. Wow, he didnt tell me that! If he would have given me 10% off for three, I would not have been expecting all three triggers to be the same. I could have lived with the two that were good and the third not quite there say at about 90% or so? I KID, I KID!!! |
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Caveat emptor. Bill did three for me; two were great, the third was unsafe and illegal (can we say more than one shot for each pull of the trigger?). The last one was very crude and crookedly filed. If you decide to gamble on one, make damn certain you perform all the safety checks. Moon When you contacted him about this what did he say? I've sent several triggers to Bill, never a problem. I've talked to him over the phone, hard to believe he wouldn't make this right. I contacted Bill by phone, told him about the problem; he agreed that there was an issue, and he agreed to send me a prepped hammer to correct the situation. Then there was a profound silence; several E-mails went unanswered, and I finally said the hell with it. Never heard anything further. He had an opportunity, then and now, to do something about it. He did nothing. So, no, he didn't make it right. Had it been a minor error, I would have been more willing to write it off. But the malfunctioning trigger group was just as profoundly fucked up as a thing can be. It's hard to believe the same guy did the first two as did the last. Too much of a hurry? Hiring out to speed things along? Who knows. Moon |
| A couple of months ago I sent my CMMG fire control group to Bill for a 4# trigger job. The parts came back quickly and when I installed them, there was a world of difference in the trigger. No creep, crisp clean breaks –– a really nice trigger. But earlier I put a 3# Timney Trigger in my Ruger M77 with the tang safety. I didn't have a trigger scale, but the difference in weight between the two seemed a lot more than one pound. I built a fairly elaborate home made trigger pull measuring device. The AR trigger pull was over seven punds. I emailed Bill and asked him what I could do to reduce the trigger pull. He immediately emailed me back and said if I returned the parts, he would look at them. A few days later the parts came back and now show a pull of just over 4# and still smooth, crisp and clean breaking. I couldn't be happier with the trigger and Bill's service. |
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An address for Bill? One can simply send the trigger/hammer assembly without the lower?? FN in MT <www.triggerwork.net> Yes, he instructs you to send in the trigger, hammer, disconnector, and their respective springs. He has a picture of what to send in on the website. You CAN also send in the lower receiver, but IIRC, it must be shipped back to you/transferred through a FFL. Most of us aren't willing to go to that much trouble. |
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I just finished my lower build using a DPMS kit. I sent the trigger group out to Bill for a 3lb rework and received it yesterday. It is fantastic! Although I don't have a scale, I can't believe how light and smooth it is. I'm looking forward to seeing how my accuracy changes now that I don't have to fight the trigger pull.
I'm a believer. Doug |
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An address for Bill? One can simply send the trigger/hammer assembly without the lower?? FN in MT <www.triggerwork.net> Yes, he instructs you to send in the trigger, hammer, disconnector, and their respective springs. He has a picture of what to send in on the website. You CAN also send in the lower receiver, but IIRC, it must be shipped back to you/transferred through a FFL. Most of us aren't willing to go to that much trouble. Pulling and later replacing the fire control group is quick and easy. It also takes less postage and there are no regulatory hassles, as there would be with a complete lower. Push out the hammer pin, pull it out of the lower. Push out the trigger pin slowly, so you can control the disconnector, and pull out the trigger and disconnector. Reinstallation is just as simple and quick. |
| I just got my RRA two-stage back and the difference is amazing with a light three pound pull and clean break. I too am looking for a range report on somebody using a four pound, single stage trigger with a high round count. Regardless, I will be sending another trigger to him soon to have done and unless you have the proper tools and knowledge, should not be tried by just anyone. |
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Halfmoonclip sorry not getting back to you, I switched to Outlook from Outlook express last October/November and emails were getting zapped in a spam filter.... this has been rectified. A few others were emails that have a spam filter on their end where one has to respond to a ISP's spam filter query. I respond, but that procedure errors out..earthlink is one of them. I then attempt to look up a persons phone number and then in a few cases it is unlisted... So I'm stuck not able to follow thru.
If anyone has questions email or call, Thanks, Bill triggerwork.net |
| I put a Bill Springfield trigger in a Bushy lower. He sent me the complete trigger. I did not send him anything. It was more than what I expected. It breaks clean with no creep and just guessing around 4 1/2 pounds. Thankyou Bill Springfield, you offer a good trigger at a nice price without going with the integrated 200 plus triggers. Curt in Pasco, Washington |
| Just to ad to thread I sent in a gritty, creepy dpms trigger group to have the 4# speed hammer job done. One week turn around, it came back with no creep & no gritty feel. It breaks clean, still has a heavy pull but I didn't expect it to be light. I don't have a gauge to measure the pull but for $40 bucks I think it's a good deal. |
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An address for Bill? One can simply send the trigger/hammer assembly without the lower?? FN in MT <www.triggerwork.net> Yes, he instructs you to send in the trigger, hammer, disconnector, and their respective springs. He has a picture of what to send in on the website. You CAN also send in the lower receiver, but IIRC, it must be shipped back to you/transferred through a FFL. Most of us aren't willing to go to that much trouble. That's odd.....he just ask me for trigger, hammer, and disconector only? |
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An address for Bill? One can simply send the trigger/hammer assembly without the lower?? FN in MT <www.triggerwork.net> Yes, he instructs you to send in the trigger, hammer, disconnector, and their respective springs. He has a picture of what to send in on the website. You CAN also send in the lower receiver, but IIRC, it must be shipped back to you/transferred through a FFL. Most of us aren't willing to go to that much trouble. That's odd.....he just ask me for trigger, hammer, and disconector only? Must be a communication mix up. He has to have the springs so he can measure the pull, right? Anyway, just pull the hammer (with spring) and trigger/disconnector (with springs) and send the whole thing to him. I just got one back from him a couple of days ago, and it's incredibly smooth and SO MUCH lighter than the stock trigger it had been. |
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Does he trim the springs, or is the lightening of the pull strictly in the polishing/stoning? I don't think he trims springs-mine "look" like they're stock length. He may "tweak" them by bending or heating or both, but they don't look any different size or length. |
| I sent Bill the trigger group from an RRA LPK I assembled into a Stag lower because it was longest, heaviest, grittiest AR trigger I've encountered. On top of that it frequently doubled/tripled on me. Bill fixed me up good. I have six more that need his TLC. No more RRA LPKs for me. |
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An address for Bill? One can simply send the trigger/hammer assembly without the lower?? FN in MT <www.triggerwork.net> Yes, he instructs you to send in the trigger, hammer, disconnector, and their respective springs. He has a picture of what to send in on the website. You CAN also send in the lower receiver, but IIRC, it must be shipped back to you/transferred through a FFL. Most of us aren't willing to go to that much trouble. That's odd.....he just ask me for trigger, hammer, and disconector only? Must be a communication mix up. He has to have the springs so he can measure the pull, right? Anyway, just pull the hammer (with spring) and trigger/disconnector (with springs) and send the whole thing to him. I just got one back from him a couple of days ago, and it's incredibly smooth and SO MUCH lighter than the stock trigger it had been. I spoke with bill......He said since I was going to 3 lb trigger pull that he replaces the springs and does not need the old ones. Previously I told him I had Stag Arms. |
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I didn't know that about the 3 pound option. Good to know.
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An address for Bill? One can simply send the trigger/hammer assembly without the lower?? FN in MT <www.triggerwork.net> Yes, he instructs you to send in the trigger, hammer, disconnector, and their respective springs. He has a picture of what to send in on the website. You CAN also send in the lower receiver, but IIRC, it must be shipped back to you/transferred through a FFL. Most of us aren't willing to go to that much trouble. That's odd.....he just ask me for trigger, hammer, and disconector only? Must be a communication mix up. He has to have the springs so he can measure the pull, right? Anyway, just pull the hammer (with spring) and trigger/disconnector (with springs) and send the whole thing to him. I just got one back from him a couple of days ago, and it's incredibly smooth and SO MUCH lighter than the stock trigger it had been. I spoke with bill......He said since I was going to 3 lb trigger pull that he replaces the springs and does not need the old ones. Previously I told him I had Stag Arms. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Bill Springfield Trigger job (Page 1 of 2)
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