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Posted: 12/4/2009 1:13:26 AM EDT
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I purchased a brand new Bushmaster XM-15, with a heavy match grade barrel. When I started using it I quickly realized how heavy that barrel was, especially compared to my other co-workers M4's. When I decided to make changes to mine, I decided to change it all and make it completely what I wanted, as everyone should. The first thing I did was completely strip it, down to ever single detent pin, springs etc. I've looked for ideas, and got answers to some questions on other forums here at AR15.com, and thought if I shared my build, it may inspire others to do the same.
My first obvious change was the barrel, I ordered directly from Bushmaster a new M4 barrel, 16''. I didn't want to mess with the whole stamp issue, but would have preferred a SBR. I ordered the barrel with the same front gas block as the Bushmaster O.R.C. (Optics Ready Carbine). Its a standard front gas block with the front sight post ground off, really slims it down. I use an EOTech sight, with plenty of extra batteries, but I can always use pop up sights for back up, but we'll get to that later. I also got the new Magpul MOE Hand guards, and Magpul MOE trigger guard as well. So from my barrel nut forward, I'm good to go, with exception to mounted equipment... I have some scuffs on the upper receiver, a lesson I learned when I failed to use a vice block, or barrel vise to remove the barrel, minor scuff, but will be fixed on the refinish. Duracoat is going the be the refinish of choice, and as they recommended, Matte Black color number 4 is the closest stock match for an AR. Before I can start my refinish, I have to wait for my custom engraving. On another forum here, I had researched options for engraving, in which I wanted an EGA, Marine Corps emblem engraved on the right side of the mag well. Spike tactical for example showed the option, but offered laser engraving, which simply burned the image into the finish, which in the case of a refinish would disappear. I wanted real engraving, just as the serial number, safe/fire etc, so it would be permanent. I've seen many examples and ideas, and decided to not only have my Marine Corps emblem, but my name as well above the trigger pins on the right side. After the completion of the engraving, I'll post pictures and information. Once my custom engraving job is complete, I can start the refinish, which will include the upper and lower receiver, action spring tube, and Magpul trigger guard. This will be my first Duracoat finish, but i'll be practicing on other misc gun parts prior to mine. I'm going to put a fine bead blast on everything to ensure a good bond, or just use some 600 grade sand paper as they suggest. Other add-ons I've got is the CAA CBS adjustable stock, and had the ACP (adjustable cheek piece) to go with it, but found it interfered with the charging handle when chambering a round, and didn't find it to be necessary for my purposes, especially with my low mount EOTech site. I replaced my charging handle latch with an extended version, and the pistol grip with a Hogue with storage inside. I have lots of options for rail accessories, and have decided not to rack my brain with placement of anything until assembly time. I'm even thinking of doing something with the trigger, like rubberizing it somehow, I don't know... I'd appreciate your opinions and suggestions, ideas and experiences through this. |
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Duracoat is seriously overrated unless this is going to be a safe queen. A couple years ago I duracoated a paintball gun, and after about a year of use, 25% of the finish had peeled off and it looks terrible. If you do duracoat, make sure you have very good ventiliation. The fumes from that stuff is nasty. Definately don't duracoat and drive.
I posted pictures of the process here. When painting, I ended up with one guy painting, another guy holding a fan to blow air between the part and the painter's face, and had a big fan in the window to suck out the fumes, and it was still causing trouble. Other than that, it sounds like you are doing almost the same thing as I did recently. Went from a Bushmaster 20" HBAR A2 to a 16" M4 flattop with MOE handguards. I ended up with a MAID grip and rear sight, fixed front sight, and ACE entry (fixed) stock. Still saving for an optic, but I'll try to post pictures tonight. EDIT: Before: 
(Stock 20" A2 HBAR, cheap Tasco 4x40mm scope in brand-x mount that didn't fit in the case) Current: 
(16" M4 barrel, MOE handguard, G2LED in viking mount, MBUS, MAID, ACE entry stock) |
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IRAM––
Thanks for the post, the pictures you posted look like you were pretty precise with the application of the Duracoat. I'm curious, where the finish did come off, what material was it applied to, aluminum, metal, plastic etc? I'm wondering if Duracoat has made any changes since you did it a couple years ago, its just that I've heard so much about it lately it seems. I know they have many additives to chose from depending on the applied surface, and they did recommend a roughing the surface with like a 600 grit sandpaper, or a light bead blast prior to for bond assist. In all honesty, I have yet to see in person a Duracoated finish. I'm wanting to stay with a close to stock finish, and not having to refinish my new barrel, but needing to refinish the upper, lower and action spring tube to match the barrel for the most part. This isn't going to be in the case much, I'll be using it for work, so it'll either be in a vehicle mount or in a soft case in my trunk. I'm digging my Magpul hand guard, same as yours, but a little concerned about its flexibility and how it will effect accuracy on a laser aiming device. I had a standard aluminum quad rail prior to, which I replace because of weight, and because I really just liked the looks of the Magpul. But, considering I can't do anything about it until the refinish and reassembly, I'll worry about it then.... |
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Well there are certainly a long list of finishing options. With the lower being Aluminum, it does narrow it down though...
Since i'm having engraving done, it will leave the exposed portions silver from the aluminum. It wouldn't match up right if it were re-anodized on top of two finishes, existing anodizing, and fresh aluminum. The only option would be to chemically strip the anodizing, then re-anodize it, but that brings up a problem. The process of chemically removing the anodizing would actually etch the aluminum eating some of it away, and will loosen up the detent ports, break down pin holes etc, making it noticeably loose, so its not a consideration to me at this point.... I found (http://www.nicindustries.com/firearm_coatings.php) which shows a comparison of Cerakote, Duracoat, and Gun-Kote. This being a website for Cerakote, one would expect the results to be a tad bias, but the tests shown here does make me wonder..... I've got other firearms to refinish after the completion of this project, but that'll be another forum... |
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Quoted:
IRAM–– Thanks for the post, the pictures you posted look like you were pretty precise with the application of the Duracoat. I'm curious, where the finish did come off, what material was it applied to, aluminum, metal, plastic etc? I'm wondering if Duracoat has made any changes since you did it a couple years ago, its just that I've heard so much about it lately it seems. I know they have many additives to chose from depending on the applied surface, and they did recommend a roughing the surface with like a 600 grit sandpaper, or a light bead blast prior to for bond assist. In all honesty, I have yet to see in person a Duracoated finish. I'm wanting to stay with a close to stock finish, and not having to refinish my new barrel, but needing to refinish the upper, lower and action spring tube to match the barrel for the most part. This isn't going to be in the case much, I'll be using it for work, so it'll either be in a vehicle mount or in a soft case in my trunk. I'm digging my Magpul hand guard, same as yours, but a little concerned about its flexibility and how it will effect accuracy on a laser aiming device. I had a standard aluminum quad rail prior to, which I replace because of weight, and because I really just liked the looks of the Magpul. But, considering I can't do anything about it until the refinish and reassembly, I'll worry about it then.... I'll try to get pictures after work. Remember, I treated a paintball gun, which has been used in big games and scenarios in three different states. I've run through swamps with it, thorn bushes, banged it into trees, rocks, wooden bunkers, etc.. It's a lot harder treatment than most things outside of the military are put through, especially when it comes to finishes. I definately would NOT mount any sort of sight to a non-FF handguard. The attachment system is simply not precise enough for that. If you are planning to mount a laser on the front end, you really need to go with something that's not just clamped on by the delta ring. EDIT: Duracoat was applied straight over annodized aluminum. Some of the aluminum was matte, some polished, but it didn't seem to make a difference. It was degreased and then sprayed on with an airbrush using the recommended mix of hardner and duracoat. The pin in the top of the bolt is stainless steel that was roughed up before coating. It's basically coming off everywhere. I'm thinking about just pealing it all off and doing it all in camo tape... 
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Quoted:
Well there are certainly a long list of finishing options. With the lower being Aluminum, it does narrow it down though... Since i'm having engraving done, it will leave the exposed portions silver from the aluminum. It wouldn't match up right if it were re-anodized on top of two finishes, existing anodizing, and fresh aluminum. The only option would be to chemically strip the anodizing, then re-anodize it, but that brings up a problem. The process of chemically removing the anodizing would actually etch the aluminum eating some of it away, and will loosen up the detent ports, break down pin holes etc, making it noticeably loose, so its not a consideration to me at this point.... I found (http://www.nicindustries.com/firearm_coatings.php) which shows a comparison of Cerakote, Duracoat, and Gun-Kote. This being a website for Cerakote, one would expect the results to be a tad bias, but the tests shown here does make me wonder..... I've got other firearms to refinish after the completion of this project, but that'll be another forum... Oddly enough, I've also looked into anodizing. That's the main surface treatment for paintball guns, and there are a number of custom shops that will re-anno markers. They always strip away the existing anno first. With some time on google you can find details about how much material is typically lost if you're concerned about tolerances. I believe it's somewhere on the order of 0.001"-0.003" lost, but it's been a while since I looked it up. I doubt you'll find things "noticable loose". You may also be able to find a shop that will mask the holes to maintain tolerances. Annodizing basically grows a layer of aluminum oxide on the outer layer of the aluminum. Aluminum oxide is much stronger than the bare aluminum (think scratch resistant). You can't grow aluminum oxide on top of aluminum oxide, just on the bare aluminum. If you want, you might be able to find a shop that could re-anno your lower so that the engravings come out in a different color than the rest of the receiver. I know the S&W performance center has the ability to re-anno frames for their aluminum guns. You might be able to work something out with them. I could mention a few anodizers, but I'm not aware of any that have an FFL. There are some pretty impressive, detailed things that can be done with annodizing. |
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I'm really looking into this Cerakote, especially with that website of NIC Industries I posted earlier. With an abrasive wear test, showing a failure at 600 cycles for Duracoat, and Cerakote not failing until 8000 cycles, its hard to ignore that test. I was so set on Duracoat until recently, though I'm not completely sworn off of Duracoat, just more interested now into researching Cerakote. I will more than likely use Duracoat on a few pistols I have that I don't/won't normally carry or use, like my Beretta 92F for example, but the AR is gong to be used for work so it needs the durability. A friend of mine owns a gun smithing business and does bluing, powder coating and other stuff, and wanted to venture into alternative finishes, especially with the hype of Duracoat and the custom choices and camo options, he'd have more business. I filled him in on this Cerakote info and he is interested in it too, though he's always been interested in offering Anodizing services as well. He had looked into it years ago and it seems very pricey at the time, and hadn't researched it recently. I don't really know a source to start looking for info on that yet, so if you know where to start let me know.
If I re-anodized my lower with the fresh engraving, it should just blacken in the groves and shouldn't look that bad (I'm guessing), and until last night I didn't even realize you could anodize in different colors, my brain is about to blow up now. Obviously I'm not interested in a florescent yellow AR, but there is a lot to learn about anodizing on my part. So about this Cerakote, anyone have any personal experiences with it, how does it differ from Duracoat other than its ingredients? I should have a good couple weeks before lower gets back to me, and won't be refinishing it until after Christmas, and after I decide what to do then. |
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It sounds like you may be over thinking this process. With almost any finish the prep work is what makes it more durable. Duracoat, and most other finishes need a good base to stick to, and anything smooth will not allow proper adhesion. Bead blasting the surfaces will help, and steel is often parked before a new finish is applied.
If the rifle is going to be banged around in your trunk, the finish will start to wear within weeks, regardless of the type. The amount of vibration and friction that vehicle will introduce to an exposed weapon will be harsh on a finish. |
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You could get NP3 coating... it'd stay pretty slick, but not so much for subdued...
I like Duracoat better on something like a shotgun where it can go on top of fresh parkerizing. The combination seems to bond rather strongly and it's a nice finish. I think a re-anodizing would be a better bet for refinish if it really needs it. |
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Well........ I'm waiting for the engraving job and when its back, refinish and assemble.
Speaking to the engraving shop that also offers anodizing services as well, I had asked him if it were re-anodized as is, (meaning already anodized other than the fresh aluminum from the engravings) how the finish would turn out. As I understand, you can not anodize aluminum that has already been anodized, because once you've built the layer of aluminum oxide on the bare aluminum, you can't build a fresh layer on it, you can only do so on the fresh bare aluminum. So I thought, if it was redone, it should anodize the fresh engraving portion obviously, but shouldn't effect the already anodized area, right? Well they didn't advise to do so because of the concern that it may cause a blotching effect on the already anodized area. I didn't want to strip it then re-anodize the whole thing as it was an option, but the stripping process that I spoke about previously removed aluminum in addition to the finish, which could effect mil specs of pin holes etc. As far as finishes are concerned, as I've spoke about Duracoat and Cerakote, which I certainly will be getting into soon on other up and coming jobs, I'm reconsidering for this project however. One main reason for a refinish other than the obvious engraving on the lower, was exposed aluminum on the upper at the charging handle latch groove and on the Picatinny rail in a couple areas. The portions on the Picatinny is hidden when my EOTech is attached, so not a crucial finish fix, and the latch groove that receives the catch on the charging handle shouldn't be to bad either, hoping. These are minor but figured a total refinish would be easy, and although the process of doing so may be, I was unaware of all of the considerations and choices. One recommendation though, was to us a Birchwood Casey product called Aluminum Black Metal Finish #15125 PAB to fill in the engraved portion, and spot finish the areas I mentioned. This would eliminate the need for a total refinish providing it comes out nice, and would certainly be the cheapest fix as well. Does anyone have experience with this product? |
| I tried the Birchwood Casey product on the upper near the exposed aluminum on the picatinny mount. I didn't realize it, but the product was clear, and actually oxidizes onto the bare aluminum as the anodizing application does, but at room temp. It did darken the area, but I'm going to reapply it more liberally to see if it darkens it more. I am still waiting on the lower to return, so if this product doesn't blacken the aluminum well enough, then I think I will pursue Cerakote to refinish the entire thing. See my other forum in the Armory section, search for Cerakote. More later.... |
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The engraving is now complete, exactly what I was wanting. It is not laser etched, it is actually engraved, it looks white due to the reflection of the aluminum. I'll attempt the Birchwood Casey Product and see how it finishes it up nice. If I'm not happy, I'll more than likely refinish with Cerakote, but if it looks good, time to reassemble and its done.
Regardless, I will continue my venture into the cerakote, see my other post in Armory, search for Cerakote... http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c373/magnum0911/blackedoutname.jpg[/img] |
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