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Posted: 11/20/2008 11:17:55 PM EDT
| I Recall reading a thread about triggers but I can't find the thread. My trigger feels like it's being drug across a gravel road. It's jerky even when I'm pulling smoothly. Can someone tell me where on this site I can find some self help Thread. I just want this trigger in my stag 2ht to be a little better, Anything I can do to smooth things out. |
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^ my stag is amazing, think I got lucky, its almost like a match trigger. its kinda heavy one stage about 1mm travel, or if I'm real careful, 2 stage, second stage is VERY light, (almost same as 1st stage, if your not careful, you dont even notice it.)
I hear great things about bill springfield. |
| For a generic parts kit trigger, Stag is the best by far out of the bag. Zero take up, just a clean break, click click click. You can buy an extra trigger group and just send it to Bill Springfield and swap em out when you get it back so no down time. Two stages don't do shit for me. |
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I have 3 GI triggers that are fine (definitely no gravel road), then I thought the RRA 2 stage was really nice, and the SSA blows the RRA out of the water, so what I'm learning is you can always improve ! :)
So does Bill do a better job than an SSA out of the box? How much does it cost? Can anyone rate these two against each other? |
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I have 3 GI triggers that are fine (definitely no gravel road), then I thought the RRA 2 stage was really nice, and the SSA blows the RRA out of the water, so what I'm learning is you can always improve ! :) So does Bill do a better job than an SSA out of the box? How much does it cost? Can anyone rate these two against each other? Do a search for "Bill Springfield" ... don't have it handy. He does a very good tune up on a military style single stage trigger. I got his basic 4 pound pull waiting for SSA to arrive in "months". In the mean time found a Geissele DMR trigger .... don't ever try one as it is like having a Jewel in a Remington 700 .... can empty the old bill fold. It's like apple's to banana's to compare the two triggers. Plus a bunch of folding money too. Different triggers for different applications / style of AR builds. |
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Drop in a RRA two stage trigger. +1 RRA 2-Stage Trigger took me about 5 minutes to install and it was the first time ever messing with the trigger group on an AR. It is soo easy to install, and is 1000x better than the standard GI trigger. I haven't tried any other triggers for the AR, but I am happy enough with the RRA, that I can't honestly say I would spend money looking for a better one. -Masta |
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Drop in a RRA two stage trigger. +1 RRA 2-Stage Trigger took me about 5 minutes to install and it was the first time ever messing with the trigger group on an AR. It is soo easy to install, and is 1000x better than the standard GI trigger. I haven't tried any other triggers for the AR, but I am happy enough with the RRA, that I can't honestly say I would spend money looking for a better one. -Masta This is what I did also. Love it. |
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Another vote for the JP trigger. Got the kit from Brownells, along with the JP speed hammer and oversize pins. It came with an excellent how-to video and the .156" pins (with hex cap screws) were a light press fit in my S&W lower, and they keep all the involved parts pivoting true and working consistantly. With a combination of their springs and OEM the trigger is about 4.5# with just a slight amount of creep. I lucked out in that I didn't have to grind-to-fit anything.
A minor glitch though––their disconnector was reamed for the standard .154 pins while every other part fit the oversized perfectly. JP customer service consisted of "ream it yourself", which I didn't attempt, had my gunsmith do the proper job. That shouldn't have been necessary. |
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I went with the dremel tool. TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!!!
If possible get a loop or magnifier so you can look at the surface of your disconnector where it contacts the surface of the hammer. You should be able to see what is causing the trigger to be rough. I put a cone shaped polishing pad on the tool and dabbed it into the polishing compound to coat the pad. Lightly polish this surface not more than 10 to 15 seconds. Reassemble your entire rifle. MAKE SURE IT IS UNLOADED. Then Dry fire your rifle. If the trigger does not suit you repeat the steps above. Do not get in a hurry polish a little at a time. I polished only this surface. I looked at the surface of the hammer and could not see any roughness that needed to be polished. This made a huge difference in my trigger action. Take your time or you could be ordering new parts. DO NOT ROUND OFF THE POINT OF THE DISCONNECTOR !!!!!!!!! |
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My Mini-14 had a pretty rough trigger pull. I removed the trigger group and de-greased the hammer-sear contact area, spread some valve grinding compound there with a toothpick, put on heavy work gloves to cushion the hammer fall, and dry-fired about 100 times. Re-applied the compound every 10 rds. The roughness was 99% gone, I shot a 1,000 rd rifle class with it and it functioned perfectly and the rest of the roughness disappeared. Be sure to get the compound ONLY on the hammer-sear contacts, and use Birchwood Synthetic Safe Gun Scrubber to blast ALL of the compound away before you re-oil.
I'm not sure how well this would work on an AR, it looks like you'd need to remove the parts to put the compound in place and replenish it during the dry-fireing. But lots cheaper and quicker than sending out for a trigger job. Two stage triggers are really nice but Pat Rogers says they have more problems than single stage. |
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JP Springs
Best $10 I've spent on gun stuff. I have a Stag and my trigger felt just like you describe before I put these springs in. Now it feels nice and smooth. ETA: If you can afford it though get a Geissele. I have one in my "go-to" rifle and I would put it in every one of them if I could afford to. |
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I have both the Geissele SSA and a RRA NM trigger. To be honest, I don't see a huge improvement with the SSA.
To be fair, one of my SSA trigger springs might have been damaged during transit (it was bent out of line when I received it). Both are miles better than a stock Bushmaster trigger, but for some reason I think my RRA has a cleaner break and a lighter take-up in the first stage. I have read that RRA NM triggers can vary wildly in quality, from stellar to "meh". Maybe I got a stellar RRA and a "meh" Geissele, I dunno. Or maybe I don't have the skills to differentiate between the two to the degree necessary to make an informed decision. I will be the first to tell you that I am no Carlos Hathcock. Last, consider that Geissele is not making any SSAs for civilian purchase until his new place in Norristown PA gets built. It is very likely that you can't get a SSA, excepting second-hand, for several months. On the other hand, you can pay $55 less and get a RRA NM trigger from Pete in NH (ar15sales.com) in less than one week. YMMV. If I were you, I'd buy a RRA NM and go from there. At $88 (now $95) shipped, I think it's the best "bang for the buck" in drop-in triggers. Edit: FWIW, my SSA is installed in a factory Bushmaster; my RRA NM is installed in a self-built Stag lower/RRA LPK gun. |
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Geissele is to triggers, what Neil Peart is to drums. Canadian? I for one get this and appreciate the humor! Now, so that my post stays relevent to the thread, I have 3 Springfield triggers and it is a great investment. I prefer a 2 stage, but for the price Bills work is the way to go on most rigs. |
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Forest
Go out and shoot the rifle, or even just dryfire it a thousand times or so and you'll have an improved trigger and skills.
Notice how they all ignored your suggestion and continued down the path to buying skill vs. acquiring it thru consistent execution of the basic marksmanship fundamentals... 
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^ my stag is amazing, think I got lucky, its almost like a match trigger. its kinda heavy one stage about 1mm travel, or if I'm real careful, 2 stage, second stage is VERY light, (almost same as 1st stage, if your not careful, you dont even notice it.) I hear great things about bill springfield. Same with mine, roughly 1mm at the most of take up and just.... CLICK. sharp, clean break. |
| Yes You do have to pull the diconnector out but it's simple. I looked at this part under a magnifier and you could see why it was so rough. Polished it up in 15 minutes and now it's good to go. I do not think I want a two stage trigger for this rifle as it is used for defense of my home and if I have to bug out. If you do this yourself do not round off the sharp edge of the disconnector. I got a new trigger for 15 mins of time. |
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Yes You do have to pull the diconnector out but it's simple. I looked at this part under a magnifier and you could see why it was so rough. Polished it up in 15 minutes and now it's good to go. I do not think I want a two stage trigger for this rifle as it is used for defense of my home and if I have to bug out. If you do this yourself do not round off the sharp edge of the disconnector. I got a new trigger for 15 mins of time. Curious, why don't you like the 2-stage triggers for HD rifles? |
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If I understand the trigger as it functions it comes to a stop at the end of the first stage
I just want it to break clean when I pull the trigger. AND I HAVE NEVER TRIED A TWO STAGE TRIGGER. It just seems a waste of time to pull the trigger twice for an AR format. I did have a model 10 S&W bull barrel set up for for ppc. When I pulled the trigger it would come to rest on a rubber bumper. A slight pull more would fire the pistol it seems right for this application. I liked this setup. Just dont think I would like the same thing ion my AR. But if you feel real strong about this you could send me one and I will try it out. If I like it I will send yours back and buy one. 
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If I understand the trigger as it functions it comes to a stop at the end of the first stage Actually, that's not the case. A 2-stage merely has two weights to each pull, it does not come to a stop at the end of the first stage. Usually the first stage is very light until it comes to the end, at which time you can feel the weight go up. The first starge is also typically longer in travel (takeup) than the second stage. When you reach the end of the first stage, the increase in weight is a signal to you that the second stage is about to hit. The second stage is usually VERY short, crisp and higher in weight than the first stage. The idea is when you feel the first stage start to end, you know when the trigger is about to break. This improves your consistency because instead of guessing when the trigger is about to break, you know when it's going to happen. I like the RRA NM 2-stage as the best bang for the buck. $95 from Pete in NH, shipped. |
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