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10/17/2008 9:21:03 AM EDT
Can someone send me pics of the parts you polish on the trigger and hammer?
10/17/2008 12:40:51 PM EDT
[#1]
you are going to fuck it up...send it to Springfield..spend 35 bucks...
10/17/2008 12:55:00 PM EDT
[#2]
what he means is.... polishing could make it weak.
10/17/2008 12:57:01 PM EDT
[#3]
height=8
Quoted:
you are going to fuck it up...send it to Springfield..spend 35 bucks...


How can you possibly Fuck Up a $15 trigger?????   The single stage triggers that are included in the $70 lower parts kits, COME Fucked UP from the factory at no extra charge!!
10/17/2008 1:39:28 PM EDT
[#4]
tag
10/17/2008 1:53:52 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:

Quoted:
you are going to fuck it up...send it to Springfield..spend 35 bucks...


How can you possibly Fuck Up a $15 trigger?????   The single stage triggers that are included in the $70 lower parts kits, COME Fucked UP from the factory at no extra charge!!


Come play with my $15 triggers that Bill has done and you might just change your mind. Have you ever shot a rifle with one of his triggers??? Or with anybody's triggers??
10/17/2008 1:56:28 PM EDT
[#6]
Info please on Springfield. I need a trigger thats good and inexpensive.
10/17/2008 1:56:44 PM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
what he means is.... polishing could make it weak.


No,  WHAT I MEAN IS a rank amateur playing with the FCG is a problem.
10/17/2008 1:57:56 PM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
Info please on Springfield. I need a trigger thats good and inexpensive.



www.triggerwork.net
10/17/2008 2:10:24 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:

Quoted:
what he means is.... polishing could make it weak.


No,  WHAT I MEAN IS a rank amateur playing with the FCG is a problem.


I guess i thought YOUR comment was humorous enough to comment on... i know i chuckled

Besides, most here are rank amateurs enough to ask question and seek info....
10/17/2008 3:29:40 PM EDT
[#10]
unfortunately most rank amateurs will try to improve their fcg and screw it up or will be posting why their rifle doubles. Let's make sure that the info we give them is correct and will help them achieve the goal they are looking for.

edit AD on post
10/17/2008 5:24:39 PM EDT
[#11]
height=8
Quoted:
height=8
Quoted:
height=8
Quoted:
you are going to fuck it up...send it to Springfield..spend 35 bucks...


How can you possibly Fuck Up a $15 trigger?????   The single stage triggers that are included in the $70 lower parts kits, COME Fucked UP from the factory at no extra charge!!h


So, What your saying is this Bill Springfield is the only person that has the talent to make a $15 Trigger worth a shit?    My point, since you didn't seem to understand the first time, Is if the guy wants to learn how to tune a trigger, he really can't go wrong learning on his "Parts Kit" trigger.   I'm sure he wasn't looking for a dumb ass answer like, "you are going to fuck it up"  IT's HIS TRIGGER!  Just because you don't have the talent to tune your own trigger, doesn't mean this guy can't do it!he
It seems to me, that this op could ruin a couple of $15 triggers learning, and still be ahead of the game.  And he will probably LEARN SOMETHING!
10/17/2008 5:31:53 PM EDT
[#12]
You polish the areas where the front of the trigger engages the notch at the bottom of the hammer...where they rub together.
10/17/2008 5:40:05 PM EDT
[#13]
FWIW, I polished my DPMS trigger and it is smooth as glass. No grinding feeling at all now. It took me 10 minutes.

You must be very gentle and not remove any metal or you could have problems. If you are not familar with a dremel I do not suggest trying it.

In essence you are removing metal but yall know what I mean.
10/17/2008 5:40:32 PM EDT
[#14]
the area's should be surface ground and have a pretty smooth surface. I dont think merly polishing them would make all that much of a difference the stock ar trigger really sucks. BAD.
10/18/2008 4:30:27 AM EDT
[#15]
I've done it on several ARs, no issues on mine or anybody elses', even after years of use.
10/18/2008 5:19:56 AM EDT
[#16]
The SAFEST way to do this yourself is probably to get some valve honing compound and apply it to the engagement spaces on both your trigger and hammer, then work them both together-preferably in the gun but without the springs.  This simulates thousands and thousands of trigger cycles and should hone the engagement surfaces to be beautifully smooth together.

Or, spend the money and have a pro do it for you.

Either way, "stoning" or other relatively inexact approaches are very good ways to have a very bad outcome.
10/18/2008 5:39:45 AM EDT
[#17]

Quoted:
you are going to fuck it up...send it to Springfield..spend 35 bucks...

It isn't rocket science
10/18/2008 9:31:46 AM EDT
[#18]
I bought a trigger set from Bill. The first thing I did was look at it and think "I could do that". So I broke out my dremel and got to work on a stock hammer and trigger. I also did some work on the stock trigger but went a little too far because it's pull is in the 2# range. My final outcome was using Bill's trigger (his has a little piece welded on bottom of the safety end to limit travel I suppose) and my hammer. Using JP service rifle springs and a Lyman digital trigger gauge, I have a crisp 4.5-5# trigger which I am completely happy with. I didn't want any thing lighter than that. Using all of Bill's parts and the springs he sent, I come in right around 4#.

It's not difficult with a little practice and something to compare to. I would not have attempted this without seeing his work first.
10/18/2008 10:40:24 AM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:
It's not difficult with a little practice and something to compare to. I would not have attempted this without seeing his work first.
Ding Ding Ding!  Most Saturday afternoon "gunsmiths" have neither the equipment nor the practice to be able to do many of their "modifications" even with good examples/instructions to follow.  We are a nation of people who want instant gratification, so it's not surprising that not many people have the patience to go at something like this very carefully and with due deliberation, let alone with a solid plan and the techniques to make that plan work.  Which is why I'm with many people posting here who say "you'll mess up".  Unlike the "15 minute trigger job" (which can give good results but failure simply means a crappy pull), screwing with the sear engagement of any firearm can give you a weapon that's not safe to handle.
10/20/2008 1:36:02 AM EDT
[#20]
Man it sure is easy to get a rise out of some people!!
First off i never said I was going to do it , I just wanted some pics of where it had been done.
Iv herd Bills work is good but Is he the only man that walks the earth that can do triggers??
Looks like all I managed to do is spark an argument. (and still didnt get any pics.)
Thanks
10/20/2008 4:20:21 AM EDT
[#21]
Get a Bill S. job on one of your trigger sets and look VERY closely. He does about 5 different things.
10/20/2008 5:26:52 AM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:
The SAFEST way to do this yourself is probably to get some valve honing compound and apply it to the engagement spaces on both your trigger and hammer, then work them both together-preferably in the gun but without the springs.  This simulates thousands and thousands of trigger cycles and should hone the engagement surfaces to be beautifully smooth together.

Or, spend the money and have a pro do it for you.

Either way, "stoning" or other relatively inexact approaches are very good ways to have a very bad outcome.


This is pretty much what I did to my DPMS trigger.
I took some valve lap compound and put it on the engagement surfaces , then dry fired the rifle 100 times. Cleaned the compound off , and put some Moly grease on... No Mo Creep.

Still too damn heavy , and not a "match" trigger by any stretch , but it's better than it was to begin with.
10/21/2008 5:01:58 PM EDT
[#23]

Quoted:

Quoted:
The SAFEST way to do this yourself is probably to get some valve honing compound and apply it to the engagement spaces on both your trigger and hammer, then work them both together-preferably in the gun but without the springs.  This simulates thousands and thousands of trigger cycles and should hone the engagement surfaces to be beautifully smooth together.

Or, spend the money and have a pro do it for you.

Either way, "stoning" or other relatively inexact approaches are very good ways to have a very bad outcome.


This is pretty much what I did to my DPMS trigger.
I took some valve lap compound and put it on the engagement surfaces , then dry fired the rifle 100 times. Cleaned the compound off , and put some Moly grease on... No Mo Creep.

Still too damn heavy , and not a "match" trigger by any stretch , but it's better than it was to begin with.
I use grease on my triggers as a matter of course; it's slicker and sticks better, especially on pivot pins.  I found that just greasing my trigger and hammer pins reduced grit and creep quite a bit.  Do that and use valve compound and you may not ever want a pro job.  Or if you do, you'll be looking for really silky feel, not this cheap polyester stuff you get from a "15 minute trigger job" or other less exact approaches.
10/21/2008 5:16:38 PM EDT
[#24]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
you are going to fuck it up...send it to Springfield..spend 35 bucks...


How can you possibly Fuck Up a $15 trigger?????   The single stage triggers that are included in the $70 lower parts kits, COME Fucked UP from the factory at no extra charge!!


Come play with my $15 triggers that Bill has done and you might just change your mind. Have you ever shot a rifle with one of his triggers??? Or with anybody's triggers??


So, What your saying is this Bill Springfield is the only person that has the talent to make a $15 Trigger worth a shit?    My point, since you didn't seem to understand the first time, Is if the guy wants to learn how to tune a trigger, he really can't go wrong learning on his "Parts Kit" trigger.   I'm sure he wasn't looking for a dumb ass answer like, "you are going to fuck it up"  IT's HIS TRIGGER!  Just because you don't have the talent to tune your own trigger, doesn't mean this guy can't do it!

Besides, aren't your triggers $50 triggers now?  After all Mr. Springfield did all the work to make your $15 trigger worth a shit, and you said yourself, "spend $35"

It seems to me, that this op could ruin a couple of $15 triggers learning, and still be ahead of the game.  And he will probably LEARN SOMETHING!


sure, as long as he doesn't "accidently make his gun double or go full auto, and a ATF or snoopy police officer happen to see it and he spends a considerable amount of money to keep his ass out of "federal pound you in the ass prison"
10/21/2008 5:40:57 PM EDT
[#25]
Bill does great work, but on a couple of mine that he did, after a few hundred rounds,
the contact surfaces became worn and started to double.  This is due to the fact that
most AR-15 FCG parts are case hardened, and almost any polishing at all will polish
through the case.

When the trigger is pulled the hammer falls, the carrier cycles, and the dissconnect
holds the hammer back until it is released to reset.  Then, the hammer will fall to the
trigger notch.  If this edge is worn, due to having the case hardening polished through,
the hammer will miss the notch and fall and fire the weapon again.

Thus, the weapon will fire twice.  Once when the trigger is pulled, and again when it is
released.

Out of 6 sets that I sent to Bill, 2 double after a few hundred rounds, and 4 still work
fine.  I guess it is the luck of the draw, and what quality the FCG parts are.

I solved the problem and went to Timney triggers in my ARs now.

Regards,

Scott  
10/21/2008 6:07:58 PM EDT
[#26]

"federal pound you in the ass prison"



welcome to page two the pound you in the ass page
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