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Posted: 11/7/2007 4:39:09 PM EDT
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...I don't want to compromise my reliability. I know a lot of people have used the RRA two stage with great success. The operation appears to be close to the original design. I was also contemplating a CMC design. I don't really like the "c" clips that hold the pins in, though. Seems like another part that could possibly get lost. Are they even required? I can shoot well with a one stage or two stage. I just want a light, surprising trigger break. The carbine is a little recce-prescision build. I have a minimum tolerance .223 chambered stainless HBAR 16" in 1-8" twist barrel that I am kind of working the build around. I am free-floating with one of YHM new smooth bottomed free float rails and their flip up front sight (clamp style) for the gas block. I eyeballed the smooth-bottom tubes for awhile and finally decided that a stainless barrelled carbine would go great with the concept. Others mentioned that aren't in the poll: Timney +3 JP +2 CMMG +1 RRA "Toughened Up Trigger from ADCO" +1 |
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There are quite a few choices. The RRA is both very popular and the one I see the most complaints about. I recently tried a CMC with results that may be anomalous but were very disappointing - it let off a string of four or five rounds that was not appreciated at the range. I recently also installed a Timney that I've only put 20 rounds through - it seems to have a nice feel, but I am a little concerned about the included advice for fixing it if it doubles. I have a few single stage Jards ranging from 1½#-4# and I really do like them a lot. Based largely on endorsements seen here I just acquired a Geissele, but haven't installed it yet. While I have high hopes for it, it did cost a little more than twice what a Jard costs. ETA - Regarding reliability, one of my Jards has ~4000 rounds on it with zero problems; the others have less but I've had no problems with the ones I've used, which are all non-adjustable models. |
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ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=346766 ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=124&t=339222&page=1 CMC says their second gen trigger group has corrected doubling that the original ones sometimes experienced. |
I think I will stick with a non-adjustable type, so the Jard is out. The geissele too I suppose. Are there any other set-weight options out there? |
The CMC was a brand new Gen II, so I do need to hop on over to that thread and see what CMC has to say about it. |
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Geissele You're losing nothing except $279.00 and gaining everything. Everything is the best way to explain it. It's the best trigger on the market and I have had experience with almost all of them. You will lose nothing in the way of reliability. If I know the definition of reliability you will gain reliability with the Geissele. |
That is interesting.... maybe I will add a poll to this one. |
The Geissele is not less reliable in ANY way. What made you think it would be less reliable? Just because the adjustments exist? A ridiculous notion. I tried adjusting the over travel with a cheapy allen key (not the one included) and it BENT the allen key making the adjustment it is so stiff. You think thats gonna just "come loose" on its own? ![]() If you have the money just get the Geissele. It is the best trigger for the AR yo ucan buy. I will buy another high speed trigger but am in no way interested in the non adjustable Geissele. Not willing to give up the trigger I want just to save some time and trouble adjusting it correctly nor just to save a few bucks. |
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I have JP triggers in several of my rifles. They are set at 3lb and I have never had an issue with them. I shoot USPSA 3gun and JP triggers are the standard at matches. I also have one in my LE 6920 that I carry to work that is super reliable. They come with a instruction DVD that walks you through installation. After you do one they are a breeze to do again. give them a look at www.jprifles.com |
Uhhhh.... I dunno. I am just a firm believer in Murphy's law. After using an Aimpoint CompM2 in my last deployment and having issues with always running out of battery juice when you actually need the optic, I stopped running battery optics as well (and yes, I always checked my battery before going out). It was a point of failure that everyone here told me would never happen- I mean afterall, "those batteries have like a kazzillion hours of battery life." I am religious about shutting off the battery when not in use as well. I just feel like, if there is an adjustment there, it will likely come loose when I need it most. Just like that Aimpoint battery never failed me until I needed it most. Afterall, It's not unusual for bolts/screws to come loose on a firearm. That is why we use a little thing like locktite on optics mounts, grip screws, and buttstock screws. ETA: I a not completely deadset against the geissele. It's just from a design standpoint, I don't think that the adjustment is a positive thing. I think the non-adjustable one would be a good option if it was already out. I am looking at finishing this carbine in the next week. I'm not going to be constantly adjusting the thing anyways. A clean crisp break between 2# and 3# will likely do me just fine. |
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You can get the break that light with the adjustable Geissele but not the non adjustable Geissele. Are you willing to give up what you want the trigger to feel like for some "theoretical" reliability? It is more solidly set than the locktited screws on your BUIS. Are you unwilling to run a BUIS with locktite? As for the Comp M2 having battery issues, the Comp M4 came to be because in desert conditions the 1/3N cells loose charge more quickly and the bettery life of the M68 (Comp M2) was not as good as the M3 so when people ran out of bateries it was harder to get replacements while AA were easy to aquire. I dont think anyone would tell you a battery powered optic will last "forever" in continuous 100+ degree or below freezing weather. Not the fault of the optic, but of the battery. |
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I was tempted to spend the $$$ on a CMC or other after market trigger, but went the thirty dollar route instead. Couldn't justify the tariff on a Geiselle or similar, but I am plenty happy with what I got for a fraction of the price. Email [email protected] for particulars. My turnaround time was exactly one week. |
Ive had a aimpoint for 6/7 years now I just did CHANGE BATTERY EVEN though it didnt need it? I trust my aimpoint 100% |
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The Geissele comes with the best instructions I have every seen with a trigger. You will be able to adjust it just fine by following the instructions and it comes with all tools you will need, but you should dedicate about 2-3 hours to doing what needs to be done and reading the instructions if you have never installed a trigger before. All screw ups come from NOT FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS. If you spend the money, then take the time your end result is trigger Nirvana. |
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I voted for an RRA 2 Stage as that's what I have and they are ok. With about 1000 rounds thru it it still seemed inconsistent in feel and weight of pull so I took the lower to Holliger at White Oak Armament and let him do his magic and now I love it. He wouldn't take enough money either as I spent more on gas to drive to Carlock than he'd let me pay him for the trigger work and I don't live that far away. |
Can you explain this one? How are thy "toughened up"? I would be interested in that. FMJ Posted:
I didn't mean to turn this thread into a anti-Aimpoint thread. I had an Aimpoint for nearly five years before I decided that anything that depends on batteries will fail and usually at the worst time. It was a "very interesting life experience" when I found out that batteries suck. DevL posted:
I had no issues finding batteries. The problem is changing it out in the middle of a patrol. I don't ahve time to go digging and fool around with battery caps especailly whil dismoutned in Baghdad. At first I thought it was the lot of batteries I was using- I changed lots- same issue. I am completely religious about turning the optic off when not in use. I am religious about checking the optic before leaving as well. I know what an Aimpoint dot looks like when the battery starts to get weak beacause I owned one. You know becasue the you have to turn a few extra clicks to get the dot bright enough. There is the sweet spot just past the NV settings that are good for most all shooting situations. Once you have to turn past that, you need to change batteries. Since then, I have switched to etched glass for my optic of choice- mainly leupold and trijicon. I haven't looked back. Tritium doesn't run out of batteries (if it does dim- the etched glass will still be there) and if one of my Leupoldd do, the etched glass is still there. That is all I going to say about the Aimpoint- this thread is supposed to be about triggers. My point with the story is that I like to minimize "theoretical problems" as DeveL put it. He would be exactly right. That is what I do. Why, becasue when you need your carbine most is the wrong time to start wargaming what will go wrong and doubting your equipment. I still think that if I can get the same crisp break and light pull from a Jard non-adjustable trigger, it has less potential for failure from a design standpoint than a trigger with an andjustment. Common sense will tell anyone that more parts=more potential for problems. It can be the most sensual trigger pull in the world, but if there is an elephant sitting in the corner of the room- I will always have that doubt. I do tend to use more locktite than most (pistol grips, scope rings and mounts, rail systems, set screws, etc) and I always stake everything I can (buttstocks etc). I can't argue with the popularity of the Geisslele. The poll is obvious. I do like to refer to ARFcommers as my Beta testers Thanks for all the additional choices that were pointed out. I am still researching them. Let me know if there are some that are missed. I updated the nnumbers for the ones not in the poll in my initial post. |
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