AR Sponsor
Posted: 1/27/2007 2:37:31 PM EDT
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what is the reccomended type of cleaning rod to use on our Ar's? i know there is brass, and aluminum, what others types are there? now i know there are 1 piece and 3 peice rods. any difference? and there is brass chamber brushes to go along with their patches. i just want to know what is the best to use and if any can damage your rifle and how so? what types or what ones should i stay away from what do you guys reccomend? right now i have an Outers 3 pieces brass rod that i use a brass brush with. is that ok? if not what do u guys use? i would figure 3 piece rod over 1 piece bc i would think its easier to use a brass brush with. any input is appreicated guys. thanks, canes ETA: How many of you actually use a bore guide, and what is its sole pupouse? ETA; IM Also usuing a chrome line barrel |
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You need to save the multi-piece and flexible rods for EMERGENCY USE only. The Tiptons are first rate. I have two because my barrels are expensive...Pac Nor and Shilen DGA. And with match ammo (my own), they are sub MOA past 600 yards. I don't clean until accuracy dictates, usually 200+ rounds. Yes, a bore guide is used in all my rifles. |
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+1 on the Tipton carbon fiber 1-piece cleaning rods. I got mine at the local gun store but i think Gander Mountain carries them too. The problem with the multi section aluminum rods that screw together is that the joints don't always match perfectly so they can scrap against your bore. I also have a J. Dewey chamber brush rod. It's got a good handle on it like a screwdriver so you can twist the chamber brush while you're scrubbing. |
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My prefered rod to clean my Colt with is Kleen-Bore's sectioned Saf-T-Clad rod. I got mine at a retail store but here is the manufacturers site. secure.armorholdings.com/kleen-bore/product274.html The Tipton is a great product for precision rifles, but a little over kill for cleaning a defensive carbine IMO. |
Where did I state my barrels are "defensive carbines"?
If it is under 100 yards, my M1911 takes care of it. Unless it is a squirrel, then my RWS 48 does the talking. |
Where did I state that your barrels are "defensive carbines"? |
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If you do use the Tipton rod, be VERY careful if you stick a patch. Don't force it. I broke the tip right off mine when I stuck a patch. Pretty much wrecked it, you can't put the tip back on. I switched to Dewey rods, and I think they're much nicer and stronger, although a tad more expensive. Great cleaning rods, tho. |
The bore guide protects the 'leade,' (pronounced "leed") against being contacted by the rod. The leade is the part of the barrel where the rifling starts. If it gets worn down, the bullet takes longer to contact the rifling, and therefore is moving faster. This decreases accuracy. I use one. In a pinch, drill a casing to accept your rod and use that. eta I have switched from using a patch jag, to using a patch wrapped around a brass bore brush. This prevents the 'sticking' that so many people (Swingset, are you listening?  ) complain about. Gets the job done just as well.
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+1 for the Dewey. They are worth every penny. Dewey @ Brownells |
| boresnake.....if you have never used one you owe it to yourself... they are 12-15 bucks depending on where you pick them up.... it takes 15 seconds to spray the top half of the snake...put a few drops of cleaner on the brush portion and drop it down from the ejector port till the brass weight falls out the muzzel...grap and pull...viola a shiny clean bore in a fraction of the time...fantastic at the range when your breaking in a bbl or you dont want to break down the gun to clean it. my vote is boresnake... |
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Old GI Steel cleaning rods work fine on chrome bores as long as your rods are in good condition and you are careful with them. On ANYTHING ELSE I use brass or clad rods. I have always used brass on match rifles. I have never used a bore guide. They are probably a good idea, but since the Corps never issued me one, I never used it. I don't like bore snakes. If you are not washing it constantly then you are dragging the same crap down the bore every time you use it. It is MUCH better to be able to throw the dirty patches away. Breaking down a AR takes what, 15 seconds? You can't tell me your schedule is so busy that you can't "waste" that time. Currently I use a Otis flexible rod on my AR's. It works well and stores small. |
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The segmented rods in steel are ok for chrome bore use. Brass and aluminum can "embed" abrasive particles which can scratch even chrome plated bores. Plus they are weak and frequently break at the joints. I have Dewy rods and the coating has less chance of embedding but it isn't impossible. And the coating chips. Tipton carbon rods do not bend. While Dewey are spring tempered, they can be bent, rendering them useless. |
Exactly. |
| Bore guides are useful for rifles that require cleaning from the muzzle. Prevents the metal rod from contacting the critical ends of the rifling. Since you would clean an AR from the breech, a bore guide is not required, but I can see where it could have some utility. I use the nylon-coated Dewey rod with swivel handle, and it's been great for years. I also use a patch wrapped around a bronze brush. Use an old brush, or figure on sacrificing a good one. After this treatment it won't be any good except with the patch. Get a rod long enough so you can push whatever you have on the end of it completely past the muzzle attachment. Remove the rod attachment (or take the patch off a jag) before backing the rod out. Even though you have a chrome bore, be very careful with it and it'll serve you for a long time. |
Para-cord with knots...  Seriously, though... Anything with a chromed bore (eg non-precision) doesn't need fancy cleaning supplies... If it (550 cord bore-snake & CLP) can keep a M16 that has seen more rounds than most of your personal guns clean, functional and accurate, it will work for a similar civilian gun... |
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Brass. Brass. BRASS! Did I say "Brass"? ( Marble´s, Hoppe´s, Kleen Bore, Dewey´s, Rig? Outers ( earlier ) ) Eventually one piece Steel ... with BRASS tips! Forget about Alumium rods and how soft they are! There is ALWAYS ( and ONLY! ) Aluminium OXIDE on the outside - and that thing is abrasive as Hell! did I mention BRASS? ;-) H |
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