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Posted: 10/31/2006 4:55:48 PM EDT
| Is there a major drawback to painting with it? Does it come off real easy? |
I don't think they have coyote as they only have khaki. They say that their Medium Brown is a good match for FDE, but from pics it looks a bit dark to me... |
Khaki is what i used and it matched up to the stock and grip that were called coyote, not exactly but close enough for me. |
| I found this to be good but only to refinish a receiver black..duplicolor engine paint rated at 1200 degress.I coated a reciever then baked it on 300 degrees for an hour it came out a nice smoothe matte black thats amazingly tough.Krylon I use for furniture or mags. |
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It's not super easy, but fun to experiment with... Mixing Spray Paint 1. Take some cans of paint, a "recipient" (which will receive the new color(s)) and any number of "donors" (which will be added into the recipient can). The receipient must have sufficient empty room for adding the paint. 2. Freeze the recipient. 3. You need a tube to connect the recipient to each donor. You can buy special "mixing caps" made for this purpose, you can use a needle cap, or you can just use the straw inside of a cheap pen like a Bic. 4. Remove the caps from both cans. Put the warm donor can on the ground and invert the cold can above it, and connect the tips via the pen tube. Warm paint will shoot into the cold can. 5. Repeat with more donor colors if you want. 6. When the frozen can thaws, shake and use. It might take a few tries, but you might be able to create the earth tones desired. Of course, this skill was always used for all legal purposes...
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I have over the years tryed diffent spray type paint on guns. Non have ever realy held up. I just got into useing DURACOAT . It very easy to use no bakeing required and once dry is hard as hell. Just finshed a coyote brown M4. Great for plastic and not to expensive. Hold up a lot longer than regular Krylon or any other paint. Just need a cheap air brush and a little time. Not to expensive. Why I dislike spray paint is were are the chips going? Check out the refinshing foarms. Norrels is also nice and will hold up a lot better and look nicer. Duracoat is great if like me you have no place to bake the parts.( Wife would kill me if I used the oven) |
| Personaly as stated. I have only used Duracoat. Norrels requres bakeing for 1 hour at 300 degree F. Both are Good. Cant go wrong eather way. Not quite sure if you can use Norrels without bakeing for plastic parts. I have several rifles pistols and scopes done in Duracoat along with maglights and surefire lights. Personaly I highly recomend it. Has a large selection of colors and Hold up to knocks and dings paint wont. Also less heat sensitive and wont turn purple when used on barrels. Good stuff. Check out HOUT etpirses in rifle and shotguns section of EE for more info and links to Frquently asked questions. Also check out the refishing foarms and link above. |
Thermal cure finishes, such as the Norrells or GK, have always worked better for me. I've used everything from Krylon, to 2 part epoxy paints (DC), to Brownell lacquer finishes, and Norrells/ GunKote is way ahead in durability and solvent resistance. If you get a chance, stop over at the refinishing forum on the board for more info. |
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Here is mine - Just finished her - www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=8&f=8&t=248351&page=1 |
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I would say in my experience, Krylon is a bitch to get off. Brake cleaner doesnt work well, carb cleaner doesnt work well, paint thinner doesnt work well, the only thing that sort of worked was a semi paste paint stripper. If you want to paint something, make sure you have thought about it, slept on it, thought about it, waited a week, then think about it some more. Now I use norrels. |
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