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Posted: 11/30/2004 6:21:53 PM EDT
| Does anybody know how to Fluff & Buff the AR? There is a website for the Kel-Tec pistols, it show how to polish, lightly sand with 420 grit sandpaper the areas of the slide, ramp etc. It makes the firearm (my Kel-Tec) operate much smoothly and and sometimes more accurately. Matter of fact it enabled me to use ammo that would FTE all the time. (Just Wondering) |
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http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep.htm Here it is.. The bottom of my bolt seems a little and I mean a little rough, I will use crocus cloth and polish that area and put a mirror finish there. I don't know if it will improve anything but the area will be very smooth anyway. Forest, I agree they are not POS. |
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I know the feeling you're talking about. I had the same concerns with my previous ARs. Everyone of them seemed to have a little bit too much friction in the bolt... I'm by no means an expert, but after a few hundred rounds she ran just fine. Clean it up and lube her with some CLP and you're going to be good to go. Of course, if I'm wrong I apologize... I'll hafta remember to check back in on this thread. |
| (StrkAliteN, Understandable, what shall it be called?) I polished the bottom of the bolt, just where the hammer rides. The finish is like a mirror. I'm quessing the the hammer will ride smoothly with no minor, minute divits. There are a few other place too smooth out but I have to be very careful while I'm buffing the areas. Too me it's just another way of interacting with my m4. If ED BROWN, Wilson products are tweaked to fine firearms why not my M4. |
| The Kel-Tec I have is the P3AT, it worked fine with certain ammo. After the F&B I tried the ammo the gun fail to shoot prior, they work now. I will go to the website you guys are mentioning for more F&B knowledge. Thanks. The trigger F&B will be my next project. |
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PocketG, this just isn't necessary to do on an AR. It's necessary on Kel-Tecs because KT doesn't do the polishing that should really be done at the factory. Don't get me wrong - I have a P-3AT and love it dearly, but I bought it knowing that it would take a little work to make it 100% reliable. An AR from any decent manufacturer is going to have all these steps already done at the factory. If you want to tinker, check out the build-it-yourself forum and start gathering the parts and tools to build your own. This will be much more satisfying to you than fixing a problem that never existed. |
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The trigger I put aside for now. Anyways I completed the second phase of Fluff & Buff, The Firing pin. The Pin was spun at 65000 rpm at that time a laser emits a blue laser light and removes any inperfections on the surface. I'll explain the principles of the blue beam later in the F & B process, most likely in the last phase. Thanks again. |
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This is where I use Blue laser technology in making precision test instruments (links below). I also can use it on any metal surface. My concept is to make the pin perfectly round so in turn it takes off any imperfections in the metal. It's used in all Mil-spec tube making processes. I don't have to do this but it's just fun doing it. http://www.heise.com/products/qg.cfm?pfam=1 http://www.heise.com/products.cfm?doc_id=200 |
Fluff and Buff wtf sounds funny in the gun context LOL |
Careful, as you may polish the hardened coating right off the bolt. There is nothing wrong with the stock AR, and polishing anything but the trigger I believe to be a mistake. |
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Carriers should be heat treated, not just surface hardened. While polishing the hammer ramp is mostly tilting at windmills, it shouldn't hurt anything. Funny that most everyone agrees that ARs are a little "stiff" when new and require extra lube and at least a couple hundred rounds to shoot in, why so opposed to alterative, and possibly more effective ways of smoothing out the commonly admitted rough spots? I do agree, "fluff and buff" sounds straight from the adult film industry. "Dehorn" comes to mind, or maybe the non-word my first gunsmith used "reliabilitate". |
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