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Posted: 7/4/2003 3:26:02 PM EDT
I just got done with my newest piece of work and would like an opinion or two - perhaps a little constructive critisizm.

http://www.combatcoat.com/images/Weapons/Finished%20Match%20AR%20Resampled%201.jpg

It is a scrub region tigerstriped pattern to match some of the areas here in Florida in the winter time when things start turning a little browner.

Oh... it is a Bushmaster V-Match Competition with a stainless steel bull barrel and Burris scope. To break up the shape a little, the Bipod is a little lighter. That seemed to work pretty well. I guess I should work on doing something with slings for my customers because the black just doesn't look that great.
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 3:34:56 PM EDT
It looks pretty good! The bipod blends well with the camo. How was the job done?
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 3:36:05 PM EDT
Wow. Me likes. Couldn't even tell that it had a bipod until you mentioned it. Nice job. Why did the metal parts (Upper, Lower and handguards) turn out differently than the plastic parts? The only other thing I would change would be to take out one of the colors maybe 3tone instead of 4tone. But hell, what does it matter what I think, that is a sweet job. D.
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 3:43:09 PM EDT
Rifle? What rifle? I don't see any rifle [whacko] I also did not see the bi-pod til it was mentioned, and even after that it took some searching. Nice job!
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 3:54:49 PM EDT
THe colors are actually the same but turned out a little differently in the photo because of the texture on the plastic (I added a sharkskin texture to get a better cheekweld/hand grip). The flash makes these look darker than they really are. And since the flash is brighter in the front of the weapon than the end (Macro setting), the front will be a little more washed out because that was the closest. I am still trying to perfect my photography for my web site, so bear with me, heh heh. The metal is coated in a proprietary Molybdemim Dysulfide material and molecularly cured to the substrate metal (since you asked). The plastics (and the scope because the Nitrogen in the scope would expand and wreck the scope is the same metal process was used) are bottom coated with a special primer, then the Sharkskin texture, then painted with the proper color enamel. After all dries, is is coated with a clear flat catalyzed two-part Polyseter resin for durability (McMillian uses the same kind of stuff for thier stocks, however, they only do solid colors). I've actually started getting more and more into the ARs. They are good weapons to work on and because of the large flat surface area, you can make them look really cool. I usually use 4-6 colors in my patterns because I have found that they blend better. If you look at the pile of brush at the upper right hand corner, there are actually more colors in that than the ghillie suit. But I do agree with you about three colors making it match the ghillie suit better.
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 3:58:06 PM EDT
It sure is over my ability with the paint cans! It looks like you should have a gallery set up and become an advertiser on the site!
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 3:59:27 PM EDT
Oh... those are metal handguards done in the same process at the rest of the metal parts of the rifle. :) The textured knurling on the handguards, again, make it slightly different from the rest of the metals. You can see how my work has been progressing in the photo albumn of my [url=www.combatcoat.com]web site[/url].
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 3:59:30 PM EDT
lol..hell yeah i was wondering what was holding the rifle up until i found the bi-pod..that is hella good job..
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 4:49:39 PM EDT
The camo job looks great. However, if interested in how it really does its job, you'll need to take some pictures at longer distances, preferably against a natural background. While the fine/small patterns appear to work well at close range, at longer ranges all the colors in a smaller pattern tend to blend together, and do little to break up the outline of the weapon, which is what you are really trying to accomplish from any practical distance. For this purposes, a large pattern often works better. Rocko
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 4:50:11 PM EDT
I thought the muzzle was resting on something that was holding it up. I never saw the bipod until after reading about it and going back and looking. It took a little to find it even then. That's a cool looking job. Definitely beyond my abilities although I am a little artistic. Give me 30 minutes and a sharp pencil and I can make a good dot on a piece of paper. I really enjoy seeing stuff like this. My wife is disgustingly talented. She can paint, draw, sew, all kinds of stuff. Congrats on your talent and a cool looking rifle.
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 7:51:41 PM EDT
yoyo great job it looks realy good vinniedablade
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 8:13:35 PM EDT
Wow. Is there a bipod mounted on it? If so, wow again.
Link Posted: 7/4/2003 8:51:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/4/2003 8:53:30 PM EDT by stinkeypete]
Yeah, the bipod is totally obvious... ONCE YOU KNOW TO LOOK FOR IT! The bipod hides so well because it is a lighter color, under the darker upper. In the world, stuff always is darker underneath, where the shadows are. So, if you want to hide something, make the top dark and the bottom light. Fools our brains- so our brains ignore. Taking advantage of a design flaw in our software. The eye sees, the brain haywires. Lions have white bellies for a reason- you can see, but you can't figure out what is is... so your brain just ignores. whoops. I also agree that bigger, bolder patterns would probably work better at longer distances. However, this is art... I appreciate the art and artistry, thanks for sharing. It's awesome. Pete
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 3:34:54 AM EDT
Damn, Stinkypete... that's really good - most people wouldn't understand that but you explained it really well with your comparison to wildlife. Actually, there are lits of thin twigs and blades of grass around here, so the thin patterned lines actually work pretty well - I'll take a photo at a longer distance for you and post it.
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 6:31:26 AM EDT
Very nice. Had to go back and look again for the bipod after reading description.
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 11:18:39 AM EDT
Great looking set-up !! (Ditch the sling.)
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 12:07:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/5/2003 12:07:52 PM EDT by USMINUTeMAN]
Awsome look!! I came up with a nifty name for it if you want to market the finish, hows this- "CAMO CANDY CANE"[ROFL2] NO! Honestly, it looks awsome, good job man and thanks for sharing!![HEAVY]
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 12:57:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/5/2003 12:59:03 PM EDT by SpentShellz]
Since the bipod is so well done ..... You should try doing another AR in the bipod's pattern and colors that might be a nice touch if you have another AR .... nice job im impressed for sure[bow]
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 5:32:27 PM EDT
yep, couldnt see the bipod till it was mentioned
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 5:41:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/5/2003 5:42:18 PM EDT by usma89]
I would like to see: 1) a close up of the bipod 2) a rifle done in that camo(the bipods) edited to add: please
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 6:04:42 PM EDT
I'm doing a rifle to match that bipod tomorrow, so just hang on! :) I have a closeup of the bipod on my site [url]www.combatcoat.com[/url]
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 6:05:41 PM EDT
It'd be great in grass... Anywhere else Id be concerned about the uniform verticleness of the pattern.
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 6:12:13 PM EDT
I didn't even know there was a bipod till I read it in the post. Do the whole rifle like the bipod, or at least do another rifle camo'd up like the bipod. Otherwise, it looks a little too uniform and not enough contrast, methinks. Looks pretty (beautiful, actually), but I think it could use more contrast (like how the bipod is done) to camo better.
Link Posted: 7/5/2003 6:25:45 PM EDT
Link Posted: 7/6/2003 4:44:59 PM EDT
Thanks for the tips - that rifle looks pretty cool.
Link Posted: 7/6/2003 7:15:54 PM EDT
Combatcoater, I have to echo Troy's comments on the larger pattern. I am color blind so colors don't affect my perception as much as a normal person. My brain places more emphasis on outlines and contrast. Your pattern doesn't do nearly as much to break up the outline of the rifle as Troy's example photo does.
Link Posted: 7/6/2003 8:17:32 PM EDT
Originally Posted By rocko: While the fine/small patterns appear to work well at close range, at longer ranges all the colors in a smaller pattern tend to blend together, and do little to break up the outline of the weapon, which is what you are really trying to accomplish from any practical distance. For this purposes, a large pattern often works better. Rocko
View Quote
And people declared me nuts when I painted one of my bolt guns using the same approach that was used on battle ships and desert vehicles in WWII. The old battle ships were painted in large, irregular-yet-goemetric (or however you want to describe it) patterns of colors such as grey, blue and black. It distorted the outline at longer distances. Similarly, the Brits in WWII painted some of their desert equipment in similar "chuncks" using such less-than-obvious colors as pastel yellow, pastel blue and pastel pink (then there are the "Pink Panthers" but that is a different story). Bipod? Still looking ... [;)] Great job, like it, should work well in the swamp land. Keep up the good work Marty
Link Posted: 7/6/2003 9:06:57 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Combatcoater: The metal is coated in a proprietary Molybdemim Dysulfide material and molecularly cured to the substrate metal
View Quote
What brand of moly disulfide do you use? Thanks in advance? [8D]
Link Posted: 7/6/2003 9:08:58 PM EDT
Oh yeah...I like the camo pattern, it looks cool.
Link Posted: 7/24/2003 3:51:00 AM EDT
SOrry it's been so long to respond, but I've been in New York. I don't use a brand. Yeah - it works great in the swamp, too. All of the little scrubs and sticks - big blothces do work good if there are big blotches around. However, I feel if there are small lined items around, a small pattern is the way to go. You could say that at longer distances, the colors blend together as one. But if your backgound is finely detailed, it blends together, as well. Then you are not looking at large blotched on a blended backround. [>]:)]
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