Posted: 7/27/2010 1:31:19 PM EDT
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Just ordered one, was curious what people think of them. Two things mainly: Is it loud, and does it cut the recoil enough to notice? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Three more things: First it works nicely. Second, it threaded fine until it was 3/4's of a turn from home, I'm a big guy and the amount of muscle I used left me fairly nervous about having possibly damaged my rifle. Third, after shooting it my rear sight which was nearly centered, is now almost to right extreme. At 50 yards my POI moved about 4" high and left. Having my rear sight almost all the way to the right bugs the crap out of me. Looks good, works good, but God do I hope it didn't fuck up my barrel. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Quoted:
Did you use a barrel vise when you installed it? This. If not, and your front sight is attached to your barrel (standard FSB, flip-up gas block, etc...), you may have canted it left enough to affect your POI. Properly mount it in a vise with an upper block, then use a barrel nut wrench to give it a little nudge back the other way. The barrel should move with the nut a bit, at least up to the point where you start loosening the nut. But you shouldn't have to go that far to have a positive effect. |
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No barrel vise, but the front site is mounted on the quad rail. It's a Ruger SR-556 the rails on the upper, quad and gas block are still flush, so I don't think anything is out of alignment. Even then I have the Eotech mounted completely on rail of the upper reciever, and the dot still showed true on the front site. It may not be the scientific method, but the BUIS and Eotech were still n alignment. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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If you want a quicker answer and faster results you might want to call or email tech support. We go in this forum when there is time so there may be days before someone is available to answer questions.
As for your issue It is still possible you might of knocked something out of alignment not using a vice block. Not using a block will make that crush washer hard as hell get timed and put a lot of torque on parts that would normally never see that type of force. The crush washer is aluminum so it will give before your barrel or the brake so you probably don't have damage to your barrel. The only damage that may be caused is from the brake to the barrel contact so Is there any damage to your threads on the barrel? There are two common things on the brake that will effect the POI. The hole in the end of the brake is too small or the threading is not true. Is there copper on the end of the brake from a muzzle strike? Did you take the muzzle brake off and see if the POI shifted again? If the POI returns to normal after you remove it send the brake back and we will replace it. |
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I admit I was being a little bitchy, but the thread was started in July without response, so I was a bit annoyed. I used the crush washer that came with the brake, but it when the going got tough there was still a gap between the washer, barrel, and brake. It threaded by hand until I got to that last 3/4 of a turn to where it was properly set. I haven't taken it off because I don't have another crush washer and also I didn't want to subject it to that much torque again. I also haven't observed any shavings or copper build up on the front of the brake. My friend builds AR's and I'm pretty sure he has a vice. Is the threading supposed to get that tight at the end, before it's touching the crush washer? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Things were going good. Took it off, cleaned the carbon build up off the crown, examined the threads, all was good. Put it back on realized the washer was backwardsn took it off, and then the trouble started. The first half a loop of thread on the barrel peeled off. The remaing thread seems solid, but since it's not tapered the brake won't thread. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Figured out the problem. The brake does not come back far enough on the threads. This creates a gap between here the threads end in the brake against the inner ring of the brake. The carbo build up I had was substantial, there were lumps of it built up on the crown that I had to use a knife to scrape off. Before I had noticed how far the POI moved I had shot my rifle a bunch screwing around where the arbon had time to build up. The carbon build up caused by the gap is what is causing the poor accuracy. Suggestions? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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The plot thickens, crown to shoulder is 11/16ths, depth inside of the brake is 19/32ds, original factory FH 11/16ths inner depth. I lost one of the crush washers (the original I think) so I can't double check their thickness. Obviously the ruger FH had a larger gap than the troy brake had, maybe the brake was on too far and needed more of a stand off, like a 2d crush washer. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |