Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
1/7/2006 3:07:23 PM EDT
Most posts I've read say chrome lined barrels are more accurate them chrome moly.

But I read one post that said the opposite and they said it was a letter from RRA.

So on RRA rifles which is more accurate?

Thanks, Frank
1/9/2006 5:00:06 AM EDT
[#1]
By the nature of their construction, you CAN lose accuracy with a chrome-lined barrel versus a non-lined barrel.  That loss of accuracy can be anything from minimal (within the margin of error built into you or me shooting the rifle) to a half MOA or more, depending on the barrel.  I've never heard of a case when a lined barrel was more accurate...just easier to clean and maintain.

When I talk about the construction of the barrel,we're talking about the dynamic of the rifling and chrome application.  A chrome-lined barrel is bored slightly oversized, and then the chrome is applied to a thickness that should, ideally, return the bore uniformly to the exact internal dimensions as an unlined barrel.  Unfortunately,the chrome doesn't behave in a perfect manner and you can end up with areas of thicker and thinner chrome application within the bore...which in turn can have a negative impact on accuracy.

Steve/RRA
1/9/2006 9:12:56 AM EDT
[#2]
As far as the chrome VS. non chrome arguement, that is about one of the best and simplest explaination I have come across.  I have seen people state that you lose accuracy with a chrome line barrel, but never explain why.  That does make some sense.
1/9/2006 10:02:53 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
As far as the chrome VS. non chrome arguement, that is about one of the best and simplest explaination I have come across.  I have seen people state that you lose accuracy with a chrome line barrel, but never explain why.  That does make some sense.



Yep. I was starting to question my decision to stick with the standard barrel until I read that. I clean my guns after every range trip and I've never had trouble with other, non-chrome, barrels so I'm not too concerned about the cleaning advantages of the chrome barrel. If and when I wear out my barrel I'll reconsider the chrome option but, for now, I'm cool with the standard non-chrome . . .
1/9/2006 3:46:42 PM EDT
[#4]
Steve,

I just got the RRA catolog in today and was looking through it.  I was thinking of just getting
a stainless steel match barrel.    Is there any drawbacks?
They are 3/4 MOA vs. 1 1/2 MOA for the Government Model.

What is the relative differences between the stainless 1:8 twist vs. chrome-lined 1:9 twist?

Are stainless barrels OK to rapid fire a 30-40 round mag.? (wouldn't do that often)

What model would I get,and is it possible to get basically all the options of the Government Model
subtract the halosight, and surefire light, but add a 16" stainless barrel with attachable flash
suppressor with 3/4 MOA?

Thanks Steve,
 I am a few months away from my purchase, but I definately decided to go with RRA. I'm just
asking alot of questions so I know exactly what to buy when the time comes.

Thanks again,
Frank
1/10/2006 10:09:42 AM EDT
[#5]
Start with a Tactical CAR A4...get the model without carry handle/mount.  Sub in the stainless bbl, sub the M73 handguard, order a flip rear sight andother accessories as inclined.
Stainless 1:8 vs Chrome-lined or Moly 1:9?  Stainless is going to be silver, so if the subdued tactical look is what you're hoping for, it won't be.  Aside from that, you'll pick up a little better accuracy across a wider range of heavier bullets with the 1:8, but lose a little bit of the selection from the lighter bullets.  Generally 1:9 is good for 55gr-69gr (approximately, different bullet profiles will make this go one way or the other a little bit), while the 1:8 does better with 62gr and up (I'm personally getting the best  results with 69gr to 75gr)but, again, it depends onthe actual bullet.   The 3/4 MOA won't nec be there without free-floating the barrel, even with the stainless upgrade, however.
When it gets closer to the time you want to buy, let me know. We have quite a few new items coming out in our new catalog, along with some accessories that are no longer going to be included.  Watch our web site right around the 9th of February for the big update that coincides witht he release of the new catalog at the SHOT Show.
Steve/RRA
1/10/2006 12:09:22 PM EDT
[#6]
Also, word has it from certain dealers that there is also going to be a PRICE INCREASE at the same time.
1/10/2006 1:22:04 PM EDT
[#7]



Generally 1:9 is good for 55gr-69gr
1:8 does better with 62gr and up


Is there an availability difference or price difference between the heavier or lighter grain ammo?

Can you describe the diffrences between a free-floating barrel and one that isn't?
(heard freefloating are a pain to disassemble)

What would the accuracy guarantee be on a CAR A4 with a match stainless barrel(non-floating)?

Would it be possible to bounce a soda can around with consecutive shots at 30, 50 or 100 yards?

Are stainless barrels OK to rapid fire a 30-40 round mag.? (once in awhile)

Sorry for being such a NEWBIE, but I really feel like I'm zeroing in on what I want
Frank
1/11/2006 1:17:50 PM EDT
[#8]
Ammo costs anywhere from $4.00 a box to $24 per box, generally depending onthe source and what the load is.  New match ammo (whatever the grain) is going to cost more than eastern European bulk pack or military manufacturer overruns.

Free floating a barrel (either style) isolates the barrel from from outside influences like sling tension, hand or bench pressure in an attempt to negate the impact of thoseinfluences on point of impact.

The stainless barrel (unfloated, on it's own merits) should still group 1 MOA or better at a hundred, so pop cans at that range shouldn't be a problem.

Occasional rapid fire shouldn't be a problem.  You just don't want to do it all the time or mag after mag after mag at one outing that would get your barrel super hot and cause the throat to erode faster than it should.

Steve/RRA