Posted: 10/9/2009 3:44:47 PM EDT
Nice insert I picked up for 200 bucks and the blower motor works. Looks like its barely been used. 
This is where I'm gonna put it. The fireplace door thing was sealed around with what I thought was cement. But after I started into it with a chisel, it was hard rubber stuff that looked like cement? Should I seal around the Insert with that same stuff? |
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Hmmm. My wood burning insert (which was professionally installed) wasn't sealed into the fireplace. just sat there with decorative flashing to cover up the gaps. same with the pellet stove i replaced it with. they did use a chimney liner and filled any airspace between liner and chimney with fiberfrax though. what exactly is it you want to seal? where the flashing of the stove meets with the brick of the fireplace? are you using a chimney liner? could we see a pic of the back of the insert and the over head of the fireplace? |
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http://www.hearth.com/econtent/images/uploads/commoninserts.jpg Just found this. the area in red on the left and center examples are where you need to seal. the example on the right is dangerous. interesting |
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Quoted: Quoted: http://www.hearth.com/econtent/images/uploads/commoninserts.jpg Just found this. the area in red on the left and center examples are where you need to seal. the example on the right is dangerous. interesting try to get ahold of some Fiberfrax insulation. it looks like very dense white fiberglass blanket insulation. it's rated for about a billion degrees. pack in in the red area as tight as you can. |
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The one on the right would more than likely not draft correctly and you could have smoke back drafted into the house. First and foremost check your local building codes. If you don't do this according to code it could cause problems in the future when you try to sell your house or, God forbid, if you ever have a house fire I would contact a fireplace store and ask for recommendations. I don't think you would need to seal around the insert, just around the flue pipe as pictured in the diagrams. If it were me I would make up (or have someone) make up a steel plate or something similar to block off the old flue and do a complete reline. This would eliminate the potential problems caused by any damage or problems with the existing chimney which could allow smoke or carbon monoxide to leak into the house or attic. Don't cheap out on flue pipe either. Use a good quality double wall pipe, preferably with a stainless inner flue pipe. You get what you pay for. |
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Quoted: http://www.hearth.com/econtent/images/uploads/commoninserts.jpg Just found this. the area in red on the left and center examples are where you need to seal. the example on the right is dangerous. hmmm why does the slip in insert have to be updated? Thats what i use  eta- I have used it for 10 years now, and never had any draft issues... |
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http://www.hearth.com/econtent/images/uploads/commoninserts.jpg Just found this. the area in red on the left and center examples are where you need to seal. the example on the right is dangerous. Only if the brickmason was a retard is it dangerous. Which most currently unfortunately are. There is an art to making a fireplace to draw correctly. Unfortunately it is currently nearly a lost art to get the angles right. So, unless you have a new chimney it is never a problem. |
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http://www.hearth.com/econtent/images/uploads/commoninserts.jpg Just found this. the area in red on the left and center examples are where you need to seal. the example on the right is dangerous. hmmm why does the slip in insert have to be updated? Thats what i use
I believe the insert is fine, it's the lack of proper flue pipe that is the problem. By installing the insert, you've eliminate the ability of the old firebox to draft properly. The lack of flue pipe could potentially allow smoke and or carbon monoxide to build up and leak into the house. Not to mention building codes would not allow this type of install. |
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Quoted:
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http://www.hearth.com/econtent/images/uploads/commoninserts.jpg Just found this. the area in red on the left and center examples are where you need to seal. the example on the right is dangerous. Only if the brickmason was a retard is it dangerous. Which most currently unfortunately are. There is an art to making a fireplace to draw correctly. Unfortunately it is currently nearly a lost art to get the angles right. So, unless you have a new chimney it is never a problem. My house was built in 1950, I wonder if they did it before the art was lost? |
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http://www.hearth.com/econtent/images/uploads/commoninserts.jpg Just found this. the area in red on the left and center examples are where you need to seal. the example on the right is dangerous. My chimney sweep about freaked when he found the setup on the right at my house. Fortunately I'd just moved in during the summer and was preparing for winter, so there was ample time to install the chimney liner. And yes, it goes all the way up. My mom used to own the house; I inherited it, so there was no home inspector to catch the problem. IIRC we go through a lot less wood than my mom did when she ran the wood stove, so it's definitely a more efficient burn. Also, she used to have to get the chimney cleaned in January and then again during the summer due to creosote buildup, while we only have to do it once a year. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/images/uploads/commoninserts.jpg Just found this. the area in red on the left and center examples are where you need to seal. the example on the right is dangerous. Only if the brickmason was a retard is it dangerous. Which most currently unfortunately are. There is an art to making a fireplace to draw correctly. Unfortunately it is currently nearly a lost art to get the angles right. So, unless you have a new chimney it is never a problem. My house was built in 1950, I wonder if they did it before the art was lost? Nah, the art was still around even then. But you still had idiots who THOUGHT they knew what they were doing! |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: http://www.hearth.com/econtent/images/uploads/commoninserts.jpg Just found this. the area in red on the left and center examples are where you need to seal. the example on the right is dangerous. Only if the brickmason was a retard is it dangerous. Which most currently unfortunately are. There is an art to making a fireplace to draw correctly. Unfortunately it is currently nearly a lost art to get the angles right. So, unless you have a new chimney it is never a problem. My house was built in 1950, I wonder if they did it before the art was lost? Thing is, the chimney was built to properly vent an open fire in the fireplace. you stick an insert in, which has completely different burn characteristics, then there is a pretty good chance it will not draft properly. either too much draft, which will ruin efficiency, or too little, which could fill your house with smoke or CO when the wind blows wrong. |