Posted: 1/3/2009 10:27:43 PM EDT
|
I just went to the range and put around 150 rounds through my Garand.
Do I need to clean her or am I good till after the next range visit? Also, If I do need to clean, What should I clean? ETA: I've put about 200-250 rounds through it and I might not be firing it for a while. What parts should I clean? Nevermind, Someone wrote it already. |
|
Quick and dirty clean is the bolt face, chamber and barrel. Every 500 or so you should probably field strip it and clean the innards of the gas system and receiver.
This is assuming you're using non-corrosive ammo. If it's corrosive or you're not sure, you should field strip it now and clean everything, starting with Windex down the barrel and the gas system. |
|
Quoted:
Quick and dirty clean is the bolt face, chamber and barrel. Every 500 or so you should probably field strip it and clean the innards of the gas system and receiver. This is assuming you're using non-corrosive ammo. If it's corrosive or you're not sure, you should field strip it now and clean everything, starting with Windex down the barrel and the gas system. this.. corrosive ammo is a big issue for gas operated rifles like the M1. |
|
Quoted: Quick and dirty clean is the bolt face, chamber and barrel. Every 500 or so you should probably field strip it and clean the innards of the gas system and receiver. This is assuming you're using non-corrosive ammo. If it's corrosive or you're not sure, you should field strip it now and clean everything, starting with Windex down the barrel and the gas system. What he said. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quick and dirty clean is the bolt face, chamber and barrel. Every 500 or so you should probably field strip it and clean the innards of the gas system and receiver. This is assuming you're using non-corrosive ammo. If it's corrosive or you're not sure, you should field strip it now and clean everything, starting with Windex down the barrel and the gas system. What he said. Definitely. In fact clean it clean and make sure it is completely protected afterwards. There is a lot of "non-corrosive" surplus 30-06 out there that is corrosive. |
|
Quoted:
Quick and dirty clean is the bolt face, chamber and barrel. Every 500 or so you should probably field strip it and clean the innards of the gas system and receiver. This is assuming you're using non-corrosive ammo. If it's corrosive or you're not sure, you should field strip it now and clean everything, starting with Windex down the barrel and the gas system. Yep, I might up the range to 1K if you shoot a lot for a complete. The only thing missing in the corrosive ammo part is: DON'T EVER DO THAT AGAIN! Corrosive ammo is for cheap commie bolt guns, not semi-auto. Get some Greek from the CMP. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quick and dirty clean is the bolt face, chamber and barrel. Every 500 or so you should probably field strip it and clean the innards of the gas system and receiver. This is assuming you're using non-corrosive ammo. If it's corrosive or you're not sure, you should field strip it now and clean everything, starting with Windex down the barrel and the gas system. Yep, I might up the range to 1K if you shoot a lot for a complete. The only thing missing in the corrosive ammo part is: DON'T EVER DO THAT AGAIN! Corrosive ammo is for cheap commie bolt guns, not semi-auto. Get some Greek from the CMP. Thats the only thing I shoot in it. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quick and dirty clean is the bolt face, chamber and barrel. Every 500 or so you should probably field strip it and clean the innards of the gas system and receiver. This is assuming you're using non-corrosive ammo. If it's corrosive or you're not sure, you should field strip it now and clean everything, starting with Windex down the barrel and the gas system. Yep, I might up the range to 1K if you shoot a lot for a complete. The only thing missing in the corrosive ammo part is: DON'T EVER DO THAT AGAIN! Corrosive ammo is for cheap commie bolt guns, not semi-auto. Get some Greek from the CMP. Thats the only thing I shoot in it. Put a star sticky on your man card! 
It would have been gold if you had said LC! |
|
If you're going to shoot it again within the next couple of weeks, at a minimum I'd run an oily patch through the bore. Then before you shoot it again, run a couple of dry patches through the bore to clean out the oil.
If it's gonna be more than a few weeks until the next range session, I'd do a complete cleaning now. |
|
If it's the Greek, you're cool.
FYI, the thing about Windex is it neutralizes the salts and kills the copper left over from the bullet jacket (Windex with ammonia). Some say that the copper can coat the salts deposited in the barrel which leads to barrel corrosion under the copper, which is why you need to get the copper out as well. When I shoot corrosive in the Mausers, I use Windex at the range before I leave and then run boiling, soapy water through the bore when I get home, followed by Sweet's 7.62. I don't know if corrosion actually takes place under the deposited copper, but I don't want to learn the hard way, so I use the overkill method. 
|
| I got a 2 oz. tube (or so) of Tetra gun grease years ago and I'm still not half way through it after shooting through at least one case of Dutch surplus ammo. You don't need much grease - just put a thin coat on the top of the hammer, the bottom of the op-rod where it rubs the barrel and the channel on the right hand side of the receiver where the op rod slides. |
|
Quoted:
I just went to the range and put around 150 rounds through my Garand. Do I need to clean her or am I good till after the next range visit? Also, If I do need to clean, What should I clean? I always field strip my rifle and clean it the night after a range trip. It may be excessive, but although I try and get to the range once a week I may miss a week or two so I just get into the habit of cleaning each time. I shoot mostly my handloads, but I have shot hundreds of the Korean corrosive rounds (KA) and have no ill effects from it at all. |