Posted: 12/31/2007 9:44:04 AM EDT
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Alright, So, we've been in our first house for a month now. Downstairs, we have the washer and dryer with a utility sink in between them. The washer drains into the utility sink. The problem (other than seeming like a half-assed solution) is that the utility sink has teeny drain holes, and even the smallest lint clogs it up, which means that if you're not attentive during the washing cycle, you could have a flood (which we had our first night in the house for exactly that reason). SO, when we had a repairman to come and fix the dryer, I asked him about it and he took a look at the plumbing and said all the right things were in place and it should be easy to put a drain in for the washer. SO what do you think would be a reasonable range of estimates to have a dedicated drain for the washer installed? I don't want to get robbed. Thanks |
| Why don't you just take the last 12" of one of your wifes old nylons and secure it over the end of the drain hose from the washer. I used to have a similar problem and the SO had heard about the idea. We change it every once in a while when it starts to get pretty filled up with lint and such. |
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Meh, do it yourself for $20.00. Cut into sink drain install a tee and elbow and run up several feet, usually over the top of the sink lip. insert u shape drain hose from washer. Zip strip if if worried will come off. Wipe brow and tell wife to make you a sammich and get her man a cold beer. |
The washer drain line must have a P-trap at the bottom. 
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I figured it already had a P trap and being a utility sink it might be low enough to cut into above it, I'm cheap, thats why I said $20.00. Got ammo to buy ya know. |
don't know what kind of sink set up you have but it would be best if you tee-ed or y-ed into at least a 2" line, pvc or abs plastic would be the easiest to deal with .and you have to have a trap in the washer drain... |
Yup--"cheap" means DIY, but it still must be done right. |
Trying to think of the saying ;; You can have it done cheap You can have it done quickly You can have it done correctly You get a choice of 2 of the above. |
+1 to both
You are gonna want to make sure you have a trap in there or you'll have sewer gas going into the washer.  OP, go to Home Depot and/or Lowes and get a "How-To" book about plumbing. I learned plumbing from watching home improvement shows on TV when I was immobile from a car accident. You should be able to do this job with minimal tools (you will need a saw and PVC primer and glue) and experience. If you can strip and clean an AR and can change your own oil, you can install a drain in PVC. |
| Pull the sink...open the wall...cut in a 2" DWV tee as low as possible...turn out the wall near the washer...2" p-trap and 30" of stand pipe...if you wind up farther than 5 feet from the vent stack you tied the tee in you are supposed to re-vent but if it's close you don't need to. If you were paying me to do it, it'd run you somewhere between two and four....coonass |
ETA: what he said^^^^^ +1 on the cost too.  You should seriously consider using a standpipe of some kind. From the inlet (where you place the washer drain hose) to the top of the trap should be 18-30" to minimize the possibility of suds overflow. The drain line from the standpipe should connect downstream of the vent line serving the mop basin to keep your mop basin from overflowing during spin cycles. 2" is sufficient as stated by almost everyone here. This option meets code in the OP's supposed State of residence. Best way is to cut a new san-tee into the nearest vent line and run a standpipe from that. The maximum recommended trap arm length (distance from riser to trap) is 60". Washers are allowed by the OP's State Plumbing Code to discharge into indirect receptors, such as mop basins, however it is not recommended for this very reason. All depends on how much maintenance you want vs. cost. |
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Well, if I do anything myself right now, it'll be the pantyhose trick. The washer/dryer isn't against a wall (so no hosebib), but rather in a closet in the middle of the basement that also has the water heater, heat pump, etc.). I don't think I'm up for PVC plumbing myself yet. I've seen a lot of shows that show how once you apply the glue, you have to work fast and don't have a lot of time for screwups. Knowing my ability and luck, that's a recipe for disaster. ETA my priorities are getting it done right and to code. |
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I don't think you're giving yourself nearly enough credit. It's all about the type of primer, type of glue, etc. that you use. Pipe, glue, primer, it's all cheap stuff and easy to learn to put together. 20 bucks and you would probably have all the material you need. What's another $10 in waste so that you can learn something that will come in handy in the future. Especially when the alternative is paying someone to come and do it. IM me if you want "simple" directions for fitting PVC like what we give to our 1st year apprentices. ETA: I'm sure some of us here could help you do it easily and to code without a problem. |
Just use regular clear glue and cleaner...and if nothing else you can use no-hub clamps to fix mistakes...tinker toys really...and the best part is that after 2 minutes in that tight closet with those cans open you won't give a giggling shit if you do screw it up  coonass
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